0 fuel pressure last couple of days
#1
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0 fuel pressure last couple of days
As discussed in my thread "where is a good dodge service department near Baltimore, MD" I have zero fuel pressure now. I only drove the truck a few miles back home and then to the closest dealership, which is Cook's Motorcars in Aberdeen, MD.
I was also concerned when the service writer asked why i brought the truck in? He said I see your gauge says 0 but the truck started and sounds fine. He said the trucks usually have other symptons when they are brought in.
I told him I understand but that I am being proactive and not waiting for the IP to fail. He said well we can't fix your aftermarket gauge . I told him I know that. I said why don't you fix it be putting in a new lift pump .
Anyway, i'm hoping his two diesel techs are a little smarter and have some common sense.
I guess it could be the gauge. I will have to purchase another mechanical fuel pressure gauge to hook up at the test port to check my in the cab gauge next time.
Bob
I was also concerned when the service writer asked why i brought the truck in? He said I see your gauge says 0 but the truck started and sounds fine. He said the trucks usually have other symptons when they are brought in.
I told him I understand but that I am being proactive and not waiting for the IP to fail. He said well we can't fix your aftermarket gauge . I told him I know that. I said why don't you fix it be putting in a new lift pump .
Anyway, i'm hoping his two diesel techs are a little smarter and have some common sense.
I guess it could be the gauge. I will have to purchase another mechanical fuel pressure gauge to hook up at the test port to check my in the cab gauge next time.
Bob
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Isolators are notorious for going bad. In fact, the most seasoned and experienced members of this forum will advise you to smash them up and put them in the trash.
You should check your fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge. Here is a fancy one from Vulcan:
http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ser...w-fdsh-/Detail
Or, you can spend about $10, but a cheap pressure gauge and connect it yourself, then if you want to by-pass the isolator just buy a tube fitting and add it in its place.
You should check your fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge. Here is a fancy one from Vulcan:
http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ser...w-fdsh-/Detail
Or, you can spend about $10, but a cheap pressure gauge and connect it yourself, then if you want to by-pass the isolator just buy a tube fitting and add it in its place.
#5
DTR's Cow Boss
here is what happen to my vulcan test kit
Defiantly check the pressure with a mechanical gage like others said the isolators suck and cause more problems than there worth
every time i look at this photo i think darn i need to move that screw over a a inch but then i get in the truck and dont notice it so i forget about it
Defiantly check the pressure with a mechanical gage like others said the isolators suck and cause more problems than there worth
every time i look at this photo i think darn i need to move that screw over a a inch but then i get in the truck and dont notice it so i forget about it
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Ditch you ISOLATOR... And get a needle valve!
Current Setup...
Even got a low pressure switch included with my Campaign pump from Cummins... Rubber hoses don't ground to good... I had to soldier a ground lead to the pressure switch for it to work right...
Current Setup...
Even got a low pressure switch included with my Campaign pump from Cummins... Rubber hoses don't ground to good... I had to soldier a ground lead to the pressure switch for it to work right...
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Thanks guys. I think I will order that mechanical gauge from Vulcan Performance. I'm leaning towards getting rid of the isolator as well. Mopar1973man...where did you get that setup in the picture? Could I make a gauge setup like the Vulcan one but to match my current gauges and run that to the cab?
It they do put the intank lift pump or transfer pump in how will I know when it is going bad? I can no longer just check my f.p. gauge for under 10 psi readings.
Thanks,
Bob
It they do put the intank lift pump or transfer pump in how will I know when it is going bad? I can no longer just check my f.p. gauge for under 10 psi readings.
Thanks,
Bob
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#10
Bob,
You don't need any other gauge than the one you have, tust me I had that identical gauge.
You can do to NAPA and get the needle valve and a brass nipple shown above for less than $10.00. I even used the tiny tubing that came with the kit (same as a boost gauge) then just sheathed it in about 6 feet of 1/8" fuel line I got at NAPA too.
The isolator (if is indeed the problem) can just be taken out of the equation, no need for any other gauge purchase.
You don't need any other gauge than the one you have, tust me I had that identical gauge.
You can do to NAPA and get the needle valve and a brass nipple shown above for less than $10.00. I even used the tiny tubing that came with the kit (same as a boost gauge) then just sheathed it in about 6 feet of 1/8" fuel line I got at NAPA too.
The isolator (if is indeed the problem) can just be taken out of the equation, no need for any other gauge purchase.
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Thanks guys. I think I will order that mechanical gauge from Vulcan Performance. I'm leaning towards getting rid of the isolator as well. Mopar1973man...where did you get that setup in the picture? Could I make a gauge setup like the Vulcan one but to match my current gauges and run that to the cab?
It they do put the intank lift pump or transfer pump in how will I know when it is going bad? I can no longer just check my f.p. gauge for under 10 psi readings.
Thanks,
Bob
It they do put the intank lift pump or transfer pump in how will I know when it is going bad? I can no longer just check my f.p. gauge for under 10 psi readings.
Thanks,
Bob
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Update dealer says I have 18 PSI
Well,
The dealership called and said I show 18 PSI off of the VP44 test port at idle. When I went to pick up the truck the diesel tech as out and the service writer didn't know much other than that. I spent $89 to learn I should have just bought a $49 test gauge from Vulcan to do it myself next time.
I will now work on finding out what is wrong with my gauge. I'll start by hooking the gauge directly to my braided line to see if the gauge will get a reading. Then check the tubing for leaks, etc.
P.J. I'll check out the stuff you mentioned and get some protective tubing for the line.
Thanks
Bob
The dealership called and said I show 18 PSI off of the VP44 test port at idle. When I went to pick up the truck the diesel tech as out and the service writer didn't know much other than that. I spent $89 to learn I should have just bought a $49 test gauge from Vulcan to do it myself next time.
I will now work on finding out what is wrong with my gauge. I'll start by hooking the gauge directly to my braided line to see if the gauge will get a reading. Then check the tubing for leaks, etc.
P.J. I'll check out the stuff you mentioned and get some protective tubing for the line.
Thanks
Bob
#14
Administrator / Scooter Bum
"18 psi"
My pump only shows 16 at idle. (Scotty's "Big-Line" kit)
I've never seen a stock lift pump that showed much over 16 psi "brand new"
Might want to double check their reading.
My pump only shows 16 at idle. (Scotty's "Big-Line" kit)
I've never seen a stock lift pump that showed much over 16 psi "brand new"
Might want to double check their reading.
#15
That sucks.
Yes, DO hook it up direct. Make sure you get a needle valve plumbed in there too.
Very curious on the dealers readings though. Only once before have I heard of much over 15.5, that was ONE individual that claimed to be getting 18 out of a campaign 504 (essentially stock) pump.
Yes, DO hook it up direct. Make sure you get a needle valve plumbed in there too.
Very curious on the dealers readings though. Only once before have I heard of much over 15.5, that was ONE individual that claimed to be getting 18 out of a campaign 504 (essentially stock) pump.