Yee Haw Still Got Brake Problems
03-24-2007, 07:12 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Alabama
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yee Haw Still Got Brake Problems
Once again I have to ask some questions if yall don't mind. On my 91.5 W250 I've been having brake problems since the day I bought it about a month ago. Bought it,drove it to the house scared to death that the brakes where going to just go plum out any instant. Figured shoot it's just a brake booster EASY FIX....I was wrong
The problem I'm having is with the brake pedel going to the floor when I hit the brakes. So there is air in the line SOMEHOW but this is what I've done to no avail...
I've put a new brake power booster,new bleeder screws(PO stripped all the heads off them!),new RWAL valve(one that mounts to the frame above rearend,and bleed the snot out of the system at just about every point working in the order that I should(had my pops helping). Even adjusted the rear brakes(did NOT take off the drum just did it from the outside).
When I bought the truck it had new rotors,pads,calipers and M/C(do NOT know if it was a reman or new...starting to believe cheap-o reman) Then I done like I said above and the brakes are still the same if not WORSE than the night I drove it home. I drive it around the yard and hit the pedel and it goes 90% all the way to the floor with no feel what-so-ever then catches right about the time it hits the floor. If I stop and pump the brake pedel sitting still it will get a little stiffer but if I put good pressure on it it'll slowly still go to the floor.
Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas to help me out because I've had the truck close to a month and have not drove it more than 15 miles...starts to boggle my mind after awhile you know. I have a NEW M/C in the box but I don't want to put it on just throwing parts at it hoping that'll fix it(plus the M/C cost about $70 that I don't wanna spend if I don't have too) Only other thing I can think of is the rear brakes could be just completely wore out but that still shouldn't cause the pedel to hit the floor like there are not brakes at all(plus I hear no bad scrubbing and/or grinding from the rear shoe area and no grabbing rear brakes either).
I'm sorry for the really long post but I'm just hunting for some good help. Thanks a lot
Jimbo
The problem I'm having is with the brake pedel going to the floor when I hit the brakes. So there is air in the line SOMEHOW but this is what I've done to no avail...I've put a new brake power booster,new bleeder screws(PO stripped all the heads off them!),new RWAL valve(one that mounts to the frame above rearend,and bleed the snot out of the system at just about every point working in the order that I should(had my pops helping). Even adjusted the rear brakes(did NOT take off the drum just did it from the outside).
When I bought the truck it had new rotors,pads,calipers and M/C(do NOT know if it was a reman or new...starting to believe cheap-o reman) Then I done like I said above and the brakes are still the same if not WORSE than the night I drove it home. I drive it around the yard and hit the pedel and it goes 90% all the way to the floor with no feel what-so-ever then catches right about the time it hits the floor. If I stop and pump the brake pedel sitting still it will get a little stiffer but if I put good pressure on it it'll slowly still go to the floor.
Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas to help me out because I've had the truck close to a month and have not drove it more than 15 miles...starts to boggle my mind after awhile you know. I have a NEW M/C in the box but I don't want to put it on just throwing parts at it hoping that'll fix it(plus the M/C cost about $70 that I don't wanna spend if I don't have too) Only other thing I can think of is the rear brakes could be just completely wore out but that still shouldn't cause the pedel to hit the floor like there are not brakes at all(plus I hear no bad scrubbing and/or grinding from the rear shoe area and no grabbing rear brakes either).
I'm sorry for the really long post but I'm just hunting for some good help. Thanks a lot
Jimbo
03-24-2007, 08:51 PM
#4
Registered User
If you can build some pedal with a couple of pumps but it goes down with pressure that would indicate a hydraulic problem fluid leakage =lines wheel cylinders, calipers or by passing at the master internally.
You could have a bad flexable line that is growing or expanding under pressure.
If the rear shoes are worn or out of adjustment you will get a low pedal or may need a second pump but it should still remain solid as long as their is no air in the system.
You could have a bad flexable line that is growing or expanding under pressure.
If the rear shoes are worn or out of adjustment you will get a low pedal or may need a second pump but it should still remain solid as long as their is no air in the system.
03-24-2007, 10:40 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 697
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You might want to check out post #18 in the thread at the link. It gives step-by-step troubleshooting info for your brake system.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=142093&page=2
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=142093&page=2
03-24-2007, 10:55 PM
#6
DTR's "Cooler than ice cubes 14 miles North of North Pole" member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: 14mi North of North Pole
Posts: 1,797
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
8 Posts
If you have an adjustable rod behind the booster make sure it is adjusted right. A loose adjustment will change the engagement of the pedal to the lower ind of the travel and make for exciting times.
03-24-2007, 11:51 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Alabama
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Where exactly are you talking about the rod being? On the end that is inside the firewall,under the dash where it hooks to the brake pedel itself? Or is there a adjustable rod to the side or do I turn the rod left or right to adjust engagement...IF there is even one on this one
Trending Topics
03-25-2007, 12:46 AM
#8
Registered User
Just a shot in the dark, but since it had new calipers on it, On some vehicles and I am not sure about ours the calipers and or the wheel cylinders can be reversed from right to left. This will place the bleeder at the bottom instead of the top and will leave a lot of air in the system. Make sure all bleeders are at the highest level of the part. I even did it myself once on a Chevy and drove me up the wall trying to find it (calipers were in the wrong boxes).
03-25-2007, 07:02 AM
#10
DTR's "Cooler than ice cubes 14 miles North of North Pole" member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: 14mi North of North Pole
Posts: 1,797
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
8 Posts
Where exactly are you talking about the rod being? On the end that is inside the firewall,under the dash where it hooks to the brake pedel itself? Or is there a adjustable rod to the side or do I turn the rod left or right to adjust engagement...IF there is even one on this one
03-25-2007, 09:54 AM
#11
Registered User
There is also an adjustment on the master side of the booster, this sets the clearance between the booster pushrod and the piston in the master. The pushrod that extends from the booster has an adjustable tip. Although I have never found a clearance spec I set up my 86 gasser at .010 IIRC , but be VERY carefull, get that clearance too tight and the brakes WILL drag bigtime. Bets bet is to start at say .015 or .020 and work your way down.
03-25-2007, 01:30 PM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Alabama
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alrightly then...well I pulled the drums today to find that the rear brakes where indeed done right before I bought it. It only has the 2.5" wide shoes but everything on the rear looks to be very new.
New drums,bearings,seals,shoes,wheel cylinders,all the springs and such also! Also checked the front calipers and they are on right(bleeder on top),flex brake lines to calipers look to be in really good shape. Rear flex line to rear axle looks to be in really good shape also. Also have the new RWAL valve and new booster. All this pictured below to give everyone a real good idea.
JimmieD...thanks a lot for the link,after lunch I'm going to start troubleshooting using what you posted(from what I read I'm starting to assume problems with the master cylinder but who knows just yet) Also going to see about the adjustment on the booster itself everyone is saying
I'll keep everyone updated because I gotta figure out what is wrong here. I'm going to buy new wheel seals and some new 11/32nd vacumn hose(to replace the original hose that runs from the booster to the vacumn pump on the motor just incase*shrugs* Then I shall go from there..sorry for all the long posts but I'm giving all the info I can think of to give as good a idea to yall as possible Thanks a ton!!
Rear brakes
New RWAL Valve
New booster w/ M/C that was on truck when I bought it
Rear flex brake line
Bleed scew on caliper is UP and flex line looks good
New drums,bearings,seals,shoes,wheel cylinders,all the springs and such also! Also checked the front calipers and they are on right(bleeder on top),flex brake lines to calipers look to be in really good shape. Rear flex line to rear axle looks to be in really good shape also. Also have the new RWAL valve and new booster. All this pictured below to give everyone a real good idea.
JimmieD...thanks a lot for the link,after lunch I'm going to start troubleshooting using what you posted(from what I read I'm starting to assume problems with the master cylinder but who knows just yet) Also going to see about the adjustment on the booster itself everyone is saying
I'll keep everyone updated because I gotta figure out what is wrong here. I'm going to buy new wheel seals and some new 11/32nd vacumn hose(to replace the original hose that runs from the booster to the vacumn pump on the motor just incase*shrugs* Then I shall go from there..sorry for all the long posts but I'm giving all the info I can think of to give as good a idea to yall as possible Thanks a ton!!
Rear brakes
New RWAL Valve
New booster w/ M/C that was on truck when I bought it
Rear flex brake line
Bleed scew on caliper is UP and flex line looks good
03-25-2007, 01:40 PM
#13
Registered User
Wow. Do let us know. I have done new brakes front and rear on mine and still have a mushy pedal although it doesn't go all the way to the floor. At this point, I am suspecting RWAL valve, and booster and MC since those are the only things not new yet. I also should pull the rears and put in new adjusters since mine were kind of worn looking in the teeth, but it was the weekend when I did it and the parts store wasn't open. Plus my local NAPA usually has to order almost everything I seem to need, so I just put it back together with what I had.
