tanyj

Nada when i turn the key. Maybe a small click from someplace around the PCM, but nothing else. I remember seeing a thread recently about how to pull the key switch & check it, but couldn't find it in search.

The pre-heater doesn't click & nothing from starter either. Battery is around 75% (i hooked up the charger just to be sure) Also searching the FSM, while waiting for everyone's professional help. Thanks in advance.

dodgethis91cmns

i had this happen one time it was my fusible links that got hot or soemthing iwas told. sat in a parking lot for an hour and my brother eventually wiggled em and bam it fired right up

wannadiesel

Will it start in neutral?

The click is likely the starter relay, check to see that power is getting to the starter when the key is turned.

tanyj

Won't start in neutral, either. Where are those fusible links i keep hearing about?

tanyj

It had already sat for about 4 hours after making my 6 mile drive home from work. It's also sprinkling here & I doubt it's heat, but the fusibles may be the culprit.

wannadiesel

The fusible links are on the driver's fenderwell just aft of the battery.

Use a test light or a voltmeter to see if you have power to the starter solenoid when the key is turned.

tanyj

Thanks, heading out now.

ppiggppenn

an easy trick is to try your headlights, .... if they're bright see if they stay that way when you try to crank the engine. If the lights dim down, go right back to the battery: terminals well connected to posts? battery getting near end-life? etc. At least this narrows down a few items

tanyj

Waited for the rain to stop & of course it didn't. I'm off tomorrow, so I'll crawl under it & have my wife work the key. I did test the solenoids & they seemed ok, but without her holding the key in start, no way to actually tell. The odd part is there isn't any loud click from the pre-heater.

wannadiesel

This has nothing to do with the intake heater, I'm sure it's too warm by now in MO for it to activate.

If you have a 12 volt test light you don't need a helper. Clip the lead onto the starter solenoid connection, then stick the probe in the negative battery clamp. You will be able to see the light through the windshield (or lack of light if there's no power) when you hit the key yourself.

tanyj

Tried it & it started right up. Then shut it down after about 10 seconds and nothing, again. Test light isn't long enough to do what wanna says. Guess it's a trip to Wally-world. Lights are bright, cleaned the posts & reconnected them, and still nada.

I do have an external volt regulator & i remember something like this happening with an '86 plymouth i used to own. But i think it would kill everything when it went, not just fail to set starter.

tanyj

Think I figured it out. All the relays were fine, so I tapped on the solenoid & starter & it fired right up. Shut it down to install my brand new AFE filter & nada. Tapped on the solenoid again & it fired.

Wife's on the way to the part's store now for a starter. Tomorrow's our 9th anniversary, so guess what my gift is.......

wannadiesel

If you can wait for parts you can fix the starter for a lot less than the cost of a reman.

http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm

tanyj

Thanks Wanna. Ever think about what you'd do if you ever ran into a Chrysler engineer at a party. Personally, I'd kick him in the man sack. Looks like I have time to wait for parts, since I don't have a 12 point metric socket to take the bolts out with. & how about that slobber tube right in front of the one next to the block?

Jim Lane

A very handy test light that I use is a headlamp with about 10 feet of 12-gauge Monster Cable zip cord attached to the terminals with a replacement headlamp socket and the opposite ends terminated with insulated alligator clamps.

Now it is easy to connect to anything like the starter solenoid or chasing down bad relays without having to watch the small test light, you can set it anywhere and the light will shine at you to let you know when you have power.

Also the headlamp will add around 4-amperes to load your circuit to help chase down high resistance connections.

You can package the headlamp in the box that it came it with a bit of Duct Tape, this also makes a handy work light for when you are under your truck.

You can also connect it to your Fuel Solenoid wire and throw the lamp in the cab and go for a drive to check your intermittant stalling.

I paid almost $400.00 for a Fluke DMM and for some things this is easier to use.