GPSflyer

My brothers '93 (all stock) had a leaky pump, so I took it off, and had a local shop re-gasket it. The pump was not rebuilt. They said it was in good shape other than the leaks. I put it back in tonight, and now I can't get it to start. I scratched a mark before I took it out, and installed it in the exact same position. Im pretty sure the gears didn't move, as I had the timing pin pushed in, and the pump was set at TDC when I got it back, and it slid right into position. Ive tried bleeding the lines forever, and fuel is coming out, so I know its working, but I can't figure out why it won't start.

Thanks in advance....
Im a 24v guy usually, this mechanical stuff is all new.

BearKiller

Remove the intake boot and mist some ether into the intake, while someone is cranking.

It will probably start firing on the ether and then pick up fuel and continue to run.

Pump it up with the primer-pump, first, to make sure the fuel is up there.

JD730

I would avoid the use of ether, if it ran before it should run now. Just have to figure out whats wrong.

How did you prime it? I open the bleed screw at the filter outlet and pump the primer till I get fuel with no air coming out, then I tighten that up and keep pumping so that I get as much air out of the IP as possible. Then I'll crack 2 or 3 injector lines to bleed them out if necessary. I just started one that had been sitting for over a year and had lost its prime and thats how I did it, fired right up after I got all the air out of it.

Make sure you have 12 volts and a good connection to the shutdown solenoid. Use a jumper from the battery if you have to.

And give it throttle when you crank it, 1/2 at least, then less when it starts to run.

Silly question, there was a key in the shaft and it did go in the key way right?

GPSflyer

I bled it with the procedure in the dodge service manual. Maybe I just didn't bleed it long enough to get all the air out. The injection pump key was installed correctly, and the pump slid right back into place, no wiggling or forcing was necessary. So im sure the timing is correct.

I guess its out to the garage to try bleeding it somemore
Thanks guys

BearKiller

One little breath of ether.


If it is gonna start, it will, and you don't take a chance on stripping a line fitting or cracking a flange.

Ace

Why is there a big sticker on my air cleaner box that says "Do Not Use Starting Fluid. Immediate Engine Damage May Result?"

Exekiel69

Maybe I'm way off here but I read some of this pumps come with an internal lock (2nd gen mostly) to keep it timed while it is not on the engine, did the rebuilder mention this?

BearKiller

Two reasons for that sticker.

One being that, before using starting-fluid, the grid-heater elements should be dis-connected, in order to prevent the heaters igniting the ether in the intake, instead of in the cylinders.

One being that, gourdheads also own trucks; and like women with perfume, some think if a little is good, then a whole lot more will be better, and they will spray half-a-can in there and blow off a head, or something.

I have used starting fluids on various engines, for years, and have never had an issue, either from their immediate use, or any prolonged symptoms.

I have seen people tear into engines, take off injector-pumps, replace parts, and generally tear up a lot of stuff, in a stiff-necked attempt to avoid using starting fluid, when a little squirt of it would have had them going hours ago.

I am not saying anyone should use it, just that it is exactly what I would do in the same situation.

ofcmarc

Cause the grid heaters will light off the ether/starting fluid in the intake.

It's not a problem if you disable the heaters first.

Ace

I figured something like that prolly....

GPSflyer

Yep the pump had a bolt that locks it at TDC.

I figured out the problem. When I was pushing the plastic pin to lock the cam gear for TDC, the engine wasn't really at TDC. I called a friend who builds these for a living, and he said that if the timing cover/gears have ever been apart, the timing pin won't give you an accurate mark. With the plastic pin pushed in, the injection pump was actually retarted a tooth.

So if anyone else ever has this situation, you know what to look for.

BearKiller

Those pins are made of plastic for when they get left pushed in, less of a racket than a steel pin.

Many of those pins are sheared on the inside, with no one the wiser, until they have an issue like you just did.

Glad to read that you got it cured.

bakerroc

GPSFlyer,
How did you determine it was retarded and how did you get it set to the correct point if the plastic timing pin was of no use?

Rocky
'93 W250 stock