what is the hottest prolonged egt that is safe for an H1C?
#2
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is this what im lookin for
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1
#4
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I can't help you much, as I have been looking for the same sort of answer. They will tell you that 1200* is good for short bursts. I have been running 900-1000* with my trailer (wind, etc.) for extended periods and haven't had any problems. I would think in general, you won't have any problems. But you would probably want to make it run cooler if you could. I bet when you get on it that it heats up quick?
What is safe to run all day long? I have yet to find an answer for that searching.
-Steve
What is safe to run all day long? I have yet to find an answer for that searching.
-Steve
#5
I just like to think numbers are numbers and in this case those numbers represent guidelines. Thermocouples and good gauges are probably fairly accurate these days. But, depending on how the probe's installed, differences in single cylinder behavior, timing, etc, etc., I'll err on the side of caution. Because I don't want to find out what is "not" safe for my particular setup.
#7
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Mine runs 800 degrees all day and the probe is in the cold side. The engine temp gauge stays on the cool side as well. I don't notice engine temp climbing until I hit 1000 degrees EGT and then the thermostat cycles and it still doesn't get hot. Good or bad???
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#8
I wonder how closely EGT is related to overall engine temp. They generally run fairly cool compared to gassers, for example, and the radiator/water/fan system seem very efficient to me. I'll bet with the right (wrong?) timing and enough fuel you could melt a piston and never see it coming on the water temp gauge.
#9
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I wonder how closely EGT is related to overall engine temp. They generally run fairly cool compared to gassers, for example, and the radiator/water/fan system seem very efficient to me. I'll bet with the right (wrong?) timing and enough fuel you could melt a piston and never see it coming on the water temp gauge.
I agree. With the slush o'matic tranny cruising down the highway at about 70mph, the engine got hot enough to kick the fan in!!! That was unloaded on a July day in PA. With the 5spd, cool as a cucumber. Also, the PO overheated the motor in my truck and required a total overhaul, new pistons w/ slight overbore, head, bearings, etc. Ouch! Lucky for me I bought the truck for a tad more than he had in the motor. The only downside was he thought he could save a few pennies by using Sealed Power and Clevite parts instead of OE. Other goodside? I haven't broken it yet!!
#11
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This is just my opinion, but I really don't think the turbo is the limiting factor on egt's. I would think that the turbine wheel is made of a high heat resistant alloy and the exhaust housings are cast iron. These materials will survive in 2300 degree heat. However, the pistons are aluminum. They can melt much above 1300 degrees F. Oil sprayed into the bottom of the piston does remove some heat but failure will eventually occur if you exceed the Cummins recommendation of 1250* continuous, 1300*F intermitent.
#13
Well said boatnik.
I've seen turbos put on gas motors with NO ill effects. I think they run a heck of a lot hotter at an idle than we are at full load. IMHO its the pistons that are the weak link.
I've seen turbos put on gas motors with NO ill effects. I think they run a heck of a lot hotter at an idle than we are at full load. IMHO its the pistons that are the weak link.
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