What did you do to your Gen 1 today?
10-06-2015, 11:36 PM
#1426
Registered User
Well tonight I decided I would try and pop out the super long push rod on my hydroboost unit...since it came from a 2000 cummins truck. Well after some redneck engineering, and totally ignoring Mknittles neat little push rod pulling tool, I ended up wrecking my unit!
....
Guess you really do need to make sure your puller rests against the small crimped collar.
Should have read the post #29 in this thread...it was posted up, but I never did click the link.
1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network
Guess I'm heading to the wreckers to grab one from a 90's astro van. I had everything to do the swap finally....and the push rod was the last thing I needed to get out of the way. Hope the 2nd Gen lines I have will work on the GM unit.
.... Guess you really do need to make sure your puller rests against the small crimped collar.
Should have read the post #29 in this thread...it was posted up, but I never did click the link.
1972 Highlander 6.0/4L80E/LoMax - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network
(NOTE: you can't press off of the hydroboost housing itself, you have to press against the little collar that is crimped around the ball end)
10-07-2015, 08:00 AM
#1427
Registered User
The 93' W250 won't start. Battery is fully charged, reading 12.6V or so, I can jump the starter with a pair of pliers and it runs (with the key on), battery voltage reads 13.9V running.
Pulled the connector for the relay, put battery voltage to the red (I think it was red) on the relay plug and it started. Ignition still on.
shut down
Checked the yellow wire (still unplugged from the relay) with the key in run, zero V, turned the key intermittent to start and I get 8.5-9V
I'm guessing that relay will not work with 9V...
All fuses are OK,
I'm only getting ~9V to the yellow wire at my relay.
Suggestions?
bad relay?
Bad ignition switch? (wipers work with it on run)
Oh yeah
I put a T-pin in the relay connector on the yellow wire, plugged the relay back in and put battery voltage to the yellow wire side of the relay and it started.
unless I have a weak relay, I have a voltage loss somewhere between my ignition switch and the starter relay.... in my opinion.
any ideas?
Pulled the connector for the relay, put battery voltage to the red (I think it was red) on the relay plug and it started. Ignition still on.
shut down
Checked the yellow wire (still unplugged from the relay) with the key in run, zero V, turned the key intermittent to start and I get 8.5-9V
I'm guessing that relay will not work with 9V...
All fuses are OK,
I'm only getting ~9V to the yellow wire at my relay.
Suggestions?
bad relay?
Bad ignition switch? (wipers work with it on run)
Oh yeah
I put a T-pin in the relay connector on the yellow wire, plugged the relay back in and put battery voltage to the yellow wire side of the relay and it started.
unless I have a weak relay, I have a voltage loss somewhere between my ignition switch and the starter relay.... in my opinion.
any ideas?
Check the yellow wire at the ignition switch in the start position. If it's high, the clutch switch (or it's wiring) is bad. If it's low, check the red wire in start position. If it's low, feed from the battery is weak. If it's high, ignition switch is bad.
Well tonight I decided I would try and pop out the super long push rod on my hydroboost unit...since it came from a 2000 cummins truck. Well after some redneck engineering, and totally ignoring Mknittles neat little push rod pulling tool, I ended up wrecking my unit!....
.... 
10-07-2015, 08:53 AM
#1428
Registered User
Everything engine runs off the red feed wire to the ignition switch. The start contact is a different contact, of course than the run contact.
Check the yellow wire at the ignition switch in the start position. If it's high, the clutch switch (or it's wiring) is bad. If it's low, check the red wire in start position. If it's low, feed from the battery is weak. If it's high, ignition switch is bad.
I've never done anything like that.
Check the yellow wire at the ignition switch in the start position. If it's high, the clutch switch (or it's wiring) is bad. If it's low, check the red wire in start position. If it's low, feed from the battery is weak. If it's high, ignition switch is bad.
I've never done anything like that.
10-07-2015, 09:39 AM
#1429
Everything engine runs off the red feed wire to the ignition switch. The start contact is a different contact, of course than the run contact.
Check the yellow wire at the ignition switch in the start position. If it's high, the clutch switch (or it's wiring) is bad. If it's low, check the red wire in start position. If it's low, feed from the battery is weak. If it's high, ignition switch is bad.
Check the yellow wire at the ignition switch in the start position. If it's high, the clutch switch (or it's wiring) is bad. If it's low, check the red wire in start position. If it's low, feed from the battery is weak. If it's high, ignition switch is bad.
Checked it again this morning at the relay connector, unplugged, yellow wire, I got 11.8V with the key to start. Confirmed ground on the little brown wires, (guessing the clutch switch was jumped long ago) plugged the relay back in and it fired right up.
So it healed itself.... for now.
Thanks j_martin for the assistance.
Dave
10-07-2015, 10:29 AM
#1430
Registered User
I pulled out the tail lights and front turn signals and oil undercoated my '91.0 with Bar and Chain oil and a few shots of diesel oil to thin it out.
It needed it to seal up the DRY west coast frame and sheetmetal.
Then I took it out for a spin to cover it with a little road dust and sand.
I will pull it off the road for the winter, before the salt trucks get going.
I also did my '95 at the same time as that will see the salty roads all winter.
I will be putting the turn signals back in there next after lunch.
I am planning on doing the white crew next as that has some metal that is looking a little dry as well.
It needed it to seal up the DRY west coast frame and sheetmetal.
Then I took it out for a spin to cover it with a little road dust and sand.
I will pull it off the road for the winter, before the salt trucks get going.
I also did my '95 at the same time as that will see the salty roads all winter.
I will be putting the turn signals back in there next after lunch.
I am planning on doing the white crew next as that has some metal that is looking a little dry as well.
10-07-2015, 11:31 AM
#1431
Registered User
Checked it again this morning at the relay connector, unplugged, yellow wire, I got 11.8V with the key to start. Confirmed ground on the little brown wires, (guessing the clutch switch was jumped long ago) plugged the relay back in and it fired right up.
So it healed itself.... for now.
Thanks j_martin for the assistance.
Dave
So it healed itself.... for now.
Thanks j_martin for the assistance.
Dave
Could be the wire is nearly broken right at the relay connector, sometimes making it and sometimes not. Another possibility is ignition switch or related connector intermittent.
10-07-2015, 11:49 AM
#1432
Registered User
I pulled out the tail lights and front turn signals and oil undercoated my '91.0 with Bar and Chain oil and a few shots of diesel oil to thin it out.
It needed it to seal up the DRY west coast frame and sheetmetal.
Then I took it out for a spin to cover it with a little road dust and sand.
I will pull it off the road for the winter, before the salt trucks get going.
I also did my '95 at the same time as that will see the salty roads all winter.
I will be putting the turn signals back in there next after lunch.
I am planning on doing the white crew next as that has some metal that is looking a little dry as well.
It needed it to seal up the DRY west coast frame and sheetmetal.
Then I took it out for a spin to cover it with a little road dust and sand.
I will pull it off the road for the winter, before the salt trucks get going.
I also did my '95 at the same time as that will see the salty roads all winter.
I will be putting the turn signals back in there next after lunch.
I am planning on doing the white crew next as that has some metal that is looking a little dry as well.
And why pull the turn signals and tail lights for this?
10-07-2015, 12:04 PM
#1433
Registered User
I used a Schulz style gun attached to my air compressor turned down to 60-70 PSI.
I bought the spray gun it at Auto Zone IIRC a few years ago.
I take the turn signals out so I can really get the oil in above the wheel wheels , front and back as that is where they rust out from.
It also helps me get it back down the rear of the front fenders.
I also soak the heck out of the cab supports, bed supports, behind the gas tank and under the spare tire which I lower as well.
I have worked on and seen plenty of rusty 1st gens, I know the weak points that rust first.
I sprayed the inside of the cab doors and in the roof line of the cab using Fluid Film spray cans already.
I did that as it smells better.
I sprayed the cab roof line, from the inside through the sun visor and headliner trim piece screw holes using the small red straw that come with the cans.
I bought the spray gun it at Auto Zone IIRC a few years ago.
I take the turn signals out so I can really get the oil in above the wheel wheels , front and back as that is where they rust out from.
It also helps me get it back down the rear of the front fenders.
I also soak the heck out of the cab supports, bed supports, behind the gas tank and under the spare tire which I lower as well.
I have worked on and seen plenty of rusty 1st gens, I know the weak points that rust first.
I sprayed the inside of the cab doors and in the roof line of the cab using Fluid Film spray cans already.
I did that as it smells better.
I sprayed the cab roof line, from the inside through the sun visor and headliner trim piece screw holes using the small red straw that come with the cans.
10-08-2015, 08:23 AM
#1434
Registered User
I used a Schulz style gun attached to my air compressor turned down to 60-70 PSI.
I bought the spray gun it at Auto Zone IIRC a few years ago.
I take the turn signals out so I can really get the oil in above the wheel wheels , front and back as that is where they rust out from.
It also helps me get it back down the rear of the front fenders.
I also soak the heck out of the cab supports, bed supports, behind the gas tank and under the spare tire which I lower as well.
I have worked on and seen plenty of rusty 1st gens, I know the weak points that rust first.
I sprayed the inside of the cab doors and in the roof line of the cab using Fluid Film spray cans already.
I did that as it smells better.
I sprayed the cab roof line, from the inside through the sun visor and headliner trim piece screw holes using the small red straw that come with the cans.
I bought the spray gun it at Auto Zone IIRC a few years ago.
I take the turn signals out so I can really get the oil in above the wheel wheels , front and back as that is where they rust out from.
It also helps me get it back down the rear of the front fenders.
I also soak the heck out of the cab supports, bed supports, behind the gas tank and under the spare tire which I lower as well.
I have worked on and seen plenty of rusty 1st gens, I know the weak points that rust first.
I sprayed the inside of the cab doors and in the roof line of the cab using Fluid Film spray cans already.
I did that as it smells better.
I sprayed the cab roof line, from the inside through the sun visor and headliner trim piece screw holes using the small red straw that come with the cans.
10-08-2015, 08:39 AM
#1435
Banned
10-08-2015, 09:49 PM
#1436
Registered User
I used a Schulz style gun attached to my air compressor turned down to 60-70 PSI.
I bought the spray gun it at Auto Zone IIRC a few years ago.
I take the turn signals out so I can really get the oil in above the wheel wheels , front and back as that is where they rust out from.
It also helps me get it back down the rear of the front fenders.
I also soak the heck out of the cab supports, bed supports, behind the gas tank and under the spare tire which I lower as well.
I have worked on and seen plenty of rusty 1st gens, I know the weak points that rust first.
I sprayed the inside of the cab doors and in the roof line of the cab using Fluid Film spray cans already.
I did that as it smells better.
I sprayed the cab roof line, from the inside through the sun visor and headliner trim piece screw holes using the small red straw that come with the cans.
I bought the spray gun it at Auto Zone IIRC a few years ago.
I take the turn signals out so I can really get the oil in above the wheel wheels , front and back as that is where they rust out from.
It also helps me get it back down the rear of the front fenders.
I also soak the heck out of the cab supports, bed supports, behind the gas tank and under the spare tire which I lower as well.
I have worked on and seen plenty of rusty 1st gens, I know the weak points that rust first.
I sprayed the inside of the cab doors and in the roof line of the cab using Fluid Film spray cans already.
I did that as it smells better.
I sprayed the cab roof line, from the inside through the sun visor and headliner trim piece screw holes using the small red straw that come with the cans.
10-09-2015, 08:43 PM
#1438
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
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I'm sure there are flag purists who would take you out back and shoot you for doing that, but then again....
10-09-2015, 08:56 PM
#1439
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Posts: 6,789
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went to the boneyard today, and on the way, saw an old gasser. I found a bunch of new *USED* horns for my trucks. Figured I'd spent $20 and see what I could find. The guy at the boneyard said I looked to be a "bit horny" today. Yeah, but not for him...
Some old cool rides, like that chopped top boat, and a corvair. When was the last time you saw a corvair on the east coast ? Not many of them around.
Some old cool rides, like that chopped top boat, and a corvair. When was the last time you saw a corvair on the east coast ? Not many of them around.
10-09-2015, 08:57 PM
#1440
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Posts: 6,789
Received 1,647 Likes
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I added these Dakota horns to my ride, right below the original ones. A little louder than before, but still just as annoying... so I accomplished my goal, I think ???