What did you do to your Gen 1 today?
#1261
Registered User
Long time since I have posted here...
Not quite related to the 1st Gen but it will build the 1st Gen... I fired up my brandy new TWECO Fabricator 211i welder today. I've only used an old Lincoln AC buzzbox prior to this since I graduated highschool a decade ago.
Not quite related to the 1st Gen but it will build the 1st Gen... I fired up my brandy new TWECO Fabricator 211i welder today. I've only used an old Lincoln AC buzzbox prior to this since I graduated highschool a decade ago.
#1262
Registered User
Nice wheels, man!!! Envious!! Clean rig to boot! Well, I finally get to post something on this thread- finished up my Fluid Damper install. Awsome product that is. For the $$ forked out, you will be glad in the investment. My OEM 22 year old damper, looking closely at it, was on its way to balancer heaven. The rubber surrounding the steel was 2/3 cracked, and at one spot was protruding outward. Not much, but if you looked real close one could see the imperfection. I also redid my KDP tab with the TST kit. It is a very beefy tab. The tab I had previous was a piece of light gage sheet metal, and although it was doing its job, my reasons for re doing my KDP was to re tourque all timing case bolts, put a new crank seal in, and re seal the gear cover, this time with both gasket and sealant. The underside of the gear cover was oil wet, meaning probably a slight leak. Good maintenance and feel good about re tourqueing things. Also swapped out the original fan pulley bearing. Good times there. Just wanted to add that the Stickey was a big help- I was able to print out Thrashing's Fluid Damper post, the post on the fan bearing, and on a search I found NJT's post on his KDP fix back in 2012. So in a round about way, thanks to you all
I didn't want to repeat myself for fear of putting all here to sleep. I posted a long result reply on my own thread" in preparation for the FD install". But for you,T here is a condensed version: Big difference in idle. When I say big, I mean, that could mean different to others, but for me, big means a nice diesel humm. Couldn't wait to get my rig on some open road like on the freeway. Now, once I got on the 101 on ramp heading south I punched it to get it up to around 2200-2400 rpm. This time it was different. Before the install, it felt like my rig was working hard to get and maintain that rpm. By sense of feel, I wouldn't want to keep the truck at that rpm for long. Felt like I was overdoing it, y' know? Now, though, man it felt good- smooth at that rpm level like others have documented. Pros and cons to the FD. Addition? Pros would be: 1. The smoothness of the idle as noted 2. Now easier to adjust the sensor gap, and because of the new location of the sensor, easier to keep clean. It's out in the open. 3. The new sensor bracket is freakin beefy and well designed. I suggest to anyone doing this in the future to invest in a new cummins sensor from Geno's, cause the new sensor has wider, ovaled, holes to make gap adjustments a snap, vs. rat tail filing the original sensor that has one oval and one round hole on the sensor bracket. 4. This FD is a done deal. Never have to get another balancer again. Now the cons: 1. Fan blade vs. damper thickness is very real. You have to shim the clutch bolt head forward towards the radiator to clear the blades from the damper. Others have used a thick washer on the face of the pulley. I avoided that and instead filled the bolt head with 3 thick washers from my local Ace hardware. They were 3/8" cut washers, grade 8, and were 1/8" in thickness( they were labeled in the Ace bins as Extra Thick Washers). I had to grind the diameter down to fit cleanly into the bolt. While on the clutch, if yours has straight on top of the hex portion, your golden cause that means more thread to attach to the pulley hub. If yours is just a hex head like mine was, you will be left with about 3 or less threading to attach to the hub. Luckily, I had a spare Hayden brand clutch, which had the straight above the hex. That gave me close to 4.5 threads. 2. Access to a belt swap in the future will be cumbersome, due to the new sensor bracketry. I must be prepared with a set of brass feeler gages to reset the .050 gap, along with wrenches to remove the sensor to clear the fishing in of the belt. 3. Lastly, the $$$ cost for that FD. Searched everywhere, and took Thrashin's advice on going thru XDP diesel performance. They were the lowest in coin, and the shipping was free. Sensor bracket included in the price. I saved up for almost a year to get this thing. Every once in awhile we look at certain expenditures as pricey, but a feel good investment. FD was no different
And glad some of my posts have come in handy. That is why I, and others, post up pics and info of our trials and tribulations....to help others out.
#1263
Registered User
I came out to my truck this morning to head to work...started the truck and pulled the headlight switch...no headlights! Tried in and out on the HL switch a coupe times, still nothing. Popped the hood and tapped on the headlight relays....still nothing. I then Clicked the high beams and thankfully they came on....guess I'm high beaming everyone on the way to work.
So after work in the lot I pop the hood and try swapping the relays around...still no low beams. So it was still light out so drove home. Once home I grabbed a couple spare relays and swapped them in....still no low beams. I pull the fuse panel since I couldn't recall if there was a headlight fuse or not...everything looked fine.
I then decide to grab a couple of my spare headlights...I have about 7 used units from parts vehicles over the years. Anyway plug them in and turn on the headlight switch...everything works properly, low and high beams!
So I had both my headlight low beams burn out at the same time. Came home from work Thursday evening with low beams working properly. Did not use the truck yesterday, and fired it up this morning with both low beam headlights out...what are the odds of that happening!
So after work in the lot I pop the hood and try swapping the relays around...still no low beams. So it was still light out so drove home. Once home I grabbed a couple spare relays and swapped them in....still no low beams. I pull the fuse panel since I couldn't recall if there was a headlight fuse or not...everything looked fine.
I then decide to grab a couple of my spare headlights...I have about 7 used units from parts vehicles over the years. Anyway plug them in and turn on the headlight switch...everything works properly, low and high beams!
So I had both my headlight low beams burn out at the same time. Came home from work Thursday evening with low beams working properly. Did not use the truck yesterday, and fired it up this morning with both low beam headlights out...what are the odds of that happening!
#1264
Banned
I came out to my truck this morning to head to work...started the truck and pulled the headlight switch...no headlights! Tried in and out on the HL switch a coupe times, still nothing. Popped the hood and tapped on the headlight relays....still nothing. I then Clicked the high beams and thankfully they came on....guess I'm high beaming everyone on the way to work.
So after work in the lot I pop the hood and try swapping the relays around...still no low beams. So it was still light out so drove home. Once home I grabbed a couple spare relays and swapped them in....still no low beams. I pull the fuse panel since I couldn't recall if there was a headlight fuse or not...everything looked fine.
I then decide to grab a couple of my spare headlights...I have about 7 used units from parts vehicles over the years. Anyway plug them in and turn on the headlight switch...everything works properly, low and high beams!
So I had both my headlight low beams burn out at the same time. Came home from work Thursday evening with low beams working properly. Did not use the truck yesterday, and fired it up this morning with both low beam headlights out...what are the odds of that happening!
So after work in the lot I pop the hood and try swapping the relays around...still no low beams. So it was still light out so drove home. Once home I grabbed a couple spare relays and swapped them in....still no low beams. I pull the fuse panel since I couldn't recall if there was a headlight fuse or not...everything looked fine.
I then decide to grab a couple of my spare headlights...I have about 7 used units from parts vehicles over the years. Anyway plug them in and turn on the headlight switch...everything works properly, low and high beams!
So I had both my headlight low beams burn out at the same time. Came home from work Thursday evening with low beams working properly. Did not use the truck yesterday, and fired it up this morning with both low beam headlights out...what are the odds of that happening!
#1265
Registered User
I came out to my truck this morning to head to work...started the truck and pulled the headlight switch...no headlights! Tried in and out on the HL switch a coupe times, still nothing. Popped the hood and tapped on the headlight relays....still nothing. I then Clicked the high beams and thankfully they came on....guess I'm high beaming everyone on the way to work.
So after work in the lot I pop the hood and try swapping the relays around...still no low beams. So it was still light out so drove home. Once home I grabbed a couple spare relays and swapped them in....still no low beams. I pull the fuse panel since I couldn't recall if there was a headlight fuse or not...everything looked fine.
I then decide to grab a couple of my spare headlights...I have about 7 used units from parts vehicles over the years. Anyway plug them in and turn on the headlight switch...everything works properly, low and high beams!
So I had both my headlight low beams burn out at the same time. Came home from work Thursday evening with low beams working properly. Did not use the truck yesterday, and fired it up this morning with both low beam headlights out...what are the odds of that happening!
So after work in the lot I pop the hood and try swapping the relays around...still no low beams. So it was still light out so drove home. Once home I grabbed a couple spare relays and swapped them in....still no low beams. I pull the fuse panel since I couldn't recall if there was a headlight fuse or not...everything looked fine.
I then decide to grab a couple of my spare headlights...I have about 7 used units from parts vehicles over the years. Anyway plug them in and turn on the headlight switch...everything works properly, low and high beams!
So I had both my headlight low beams burn out at the same time. Came home from work Thursday evening with low beams working properly. Did not use the truck yesterday, and fired it up this morning with both low beam headlights out...what are the odds of that happening!
#1266
Registered User
Key words I picked up in the whole dissertation are "spare headlights". Headlights wear out. If you run on low beams most of the time, they are the ones to wear out first.
You might check your battery connections, and also the voltage at the battery when running. Sometimes weird things happen when the battery terminals corrode, like a one way connection that will start the engine, but not accept a charge right away. That would tend to take out any weak bulbs as the generator free wheels into a light load with no battery connected.
I can't think of any way a switch or relay can take out lamps. The problem has to be an over voltage condition.
You might check your battery connections, and also the voltage at the battery when running. Sometimes weird things happen when the battery terminals corrode, like a one way connection that will start the engine, but not accept a charge right away. That would tend to take out any weak bulbs as the generator free wheels into a light load with no battery connected.
I can't think of any way a switch or relay can take out lamps. The problem has to be an over voltage condition.
#1267
Registered User
Send pics with the new rubber Justin!
Brian - I have a couple pairs of the GE Nighthawk sealed beams lying around somewhere - they are yours if I find them.
Old alternator had a cracked case & wore out brushes so got another one in there last weekend after a few beers with gs9297 at his place in upstate NY - 120 amp at 900 rpm, 200 amp at 1800 rpm, 240 amp max load capacity ran a 4 ga cable directly from alternator to battery in addition to the existing fusible link 6 ga cable -
Decided to replace the ABS sensor last week - time to drill the old remnants out with the diff cover off -
Tinted yesterday right next to the Holiday Inn I stopped at - 35% sides & 20% out back -
Brian - I have a couple pairs of the GE Nighthawk sealed beams lying around somewhere - they are yours if I find them.
Old alternator had a cracked case & wore out brushes so got another one in there last weekend after a few beers with gs9297 at his place in upstate NY - 120 amp at 900 rpm, 200 amp at 1800 rpm, 240 amp max load capacity ran a 4 ga cable directly from alternator to battery in addition to the existing fusible link 6 ga cable -
Decided to replace the ABS sensor last week - time to drill the old remnants out with the diff cover off -
Tinted yesterday right next to the Holiday Inn I stopped at - 35% sides & 20% out back -
#1268
Registered User
Send pics with the new rubber Justin!
Brian - I have a couple pairs of the GE Nighthawk sealed beams lying around somewhere - they are yours if I find them.
Old alternator had a cracked case & wore out brushes so got another one in there last weekend after a few beers with gs9297 at his place in upstate NY - 120 amp at 900 rpm, 200 amp at 1800 rpm, 240 amp max load capacity ran a 4 ga cable directly from alternator to battery in addition to the existing fusible link 6 ga cable -
Decided to replace the ABS sensor last week - time to drill the old remnants out with the diff cover off -
Tinted yesterday right next to the Holiday Inn I stopped at - 35% sides & 20% out back -
Brian - I have a couple pairs of the GE Nighthawk sealed beams lying around somewhere - they are yours if I find them.
Old alternator had a cracked case & wore out brushes so got another one in there last weekend after a few beers with gs9297 at his place in upstate NY - 120 amp at 900 rpm, 200 amp at 1800 rpm, 240 amp max load capacity ran a 4 ga cable directly from alternator to battery in addition to the existing fusible link 6 ga cable -
Decided to replace the ABS sensor last week - time to drill the old remnants out with the diff cover off -
Tinted yesterday right next to the Holiday Inn I stopped at - 35% sides & 20% out back -
#1271
Banned
how do the train horns sound out front with them all the way behind the rear diff? i want a triple train horn setup but can't figure out where I want to mount it. been thinking just behind the cab on the passenger side would work too. any sound clips of yours?
#1272
Registered User
That was my thought too. If the replacement headlights did not work then it would have been replace headlight switch, or hi/lo beam switch.
Mr. Martin...the battery connections are good and clean. And the voltage is always steady at about 13.7-13.9V.
But since I'm running relays now perhaps the direct voltage from the battery is more then these old, and you are correct they are old bulbs, can handle. And yes I always drive with my lights on....so they get a few hours of service time.
#1273
Registered User
I've never measured them with a decibel meter but they'll certainly get your attention. Viair 400c compressor and a 2 or 2.5gal tank holding at 120-125psi. You can barely see the bottom of the tank in the picture. between the receiver hitch and horns if you look closely. I'll record a video of them tomorrow.
#1274
Banned
You're the second person to ask within a day . I used the spare tire mount for mine.
I've never measured them with a decibel meter but they'll certainly get your attention. Viair 400c compressor and a 2 or 2.5gal tank holding at 120-125psi. You can barely see the bottom of the tank in the picture. between the receiver hitch and horns if you look closely. I'll record a video of them tomorrow.
I've never measured them with a decibel meter but they'll certainly get your attention. Viair 400c compressor and a 2 or 2.5gal tank holding at 120-125psi. You can barely see the bottom of the tank in the picture. between the receiver hitch and horns if you look closely. I'll record a video of them tomorrow.
i've been contemplating just going with a dual "truck horn" as they only require a .5 gallon tank, but now you've got me thinking. lol
#1275
Registered User
Omega El Loco chrome-plated brass train horns. Model AH-D300 ('D' for detachable). Model AH-300 is the same otherwise. 10.5", 14.5" and 15" trumpets. 140dB at 100psi (Also says 115dB at 100psi??). 152dB max output.
They don't quite have the train horn sound to me though.
They don't quite have the train horn sound to me though.