What did you do to your Gen 1 today?
#8926
Registered User
KRB,
IIRC the ground on the core support is the ground for the auto transmissions, so I just assumed it also is the one for the speedo on the T-case.
I cleaned the metal on the core support, scuffed up both sides of all the O-ring wire terminals with sand paper. Wire wheeled the screw that is used for the ground to make it shiny and clean. I then reassembled it all with a light smear of Dielectric grease.
I am not sure if it helped with the speedo as I am not going to take it for a drive in the snow...I am just hoping it did the trick. I can't imagine it hurting anything. It is always good to clean up your grounds on an old Dodge.
The 4x4 light...That was just dumb luck, I think. Maybe it was the work on the grounds. Maybe it was just taking apart / reassembling everything that did it. When I plugged in the battery after buttoning everything up - it light up. I drove the truck in the shop in 4L with the hubs unlocked to give me the best slow speed control.
So I was a little surprised when it lit up.
IIRC the ground on the core support is the ground for the auto transmissions, so I just assumed it also is the one for the speedo on the T-case.
I cleaned the metal on the core support, scuffed up both sides of all the O-ring wire terminals with sand paper. Wire wheeled the screw that is used for the ground to make it shiny and clean. I then reassembled it all with a light smear of Dielectric grease.
I am not sure if it helped with the speedo as I am not going to take it for a drive in the snow...I am just hoping it did the trick. I can't imagine it hurting anything. It is always good to clean up your grounds on an old Dodge.
The 4x4 light...That was just dumb luck, I think. Maybe it was the work on the grounds. Maybe it was just taking apart / reassembling everything that did it. When I plugged in the battery after buttoning everything up - it light up. I drove the truck in the shop in 4L with the hubs unlocked to give me the best slow speed control.
So I was a little surprised when it lit up.
The working CD player, the replacement OEM armrests from my collection and the improved / better attachment of the door panels where also a nice addition for cabin comfort.
Now to throw in the stiffer AFC spring and do a little tuning, now I can drive it. I am looking to slow the onset of fuel with lower boost #s. Now that is makes 30 PSI I do not want the fuel pin to be at full fuel at 15 PSI.
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nonrev (04-18-2024)
#8927
Registered User
I just got a few NON intercooled AFC springs from Bosch. They are a stiffer spring than the '91.5-'93 springs
I plan to install one on nonrev's old '92 W-250 and another on Project Covid. I want to slow the onset of full fueling a bit now both are making more boost than they ever did from the factory.
I plan to install one on nonrev's old '92 W-250 and another on Project Covid. I want to slow the onset of full fueling a bit now both are making more boost than they ever did from the factory.
#8928
Registered User
Sounds like progress Oliver! Hopefully you're having some nice spring weather to enjoy as well.
I need to keep searching for more grounds to clean up. My speedo still goes bonkers occasionally. I need to pay attention to what is on or off when it happens.
I need to keep searching for more grounds to clean up. My speedo still goes bonkers occasionally. I need to pay attention to what is on or off when it happens.
#8929
Registered User
Rug Trucker,
Yes it should improve MPG a bit. I am not looking to cut back on maximum fueling. I am looking to just delay it, so it is more in line with the HX35 turbos 30 PSI boost curve now. The old spring is so soft that you can not tune it well, so it does not compress to give you full fuel at say 20 PSI
Mostly just looking to clear up lower boost smoke as I live in a small town and everybody knows me as the Dodge guy. Puffs of black smoke every gear shift, as the turbo catches up, just gives the hippies something to point at and hate.
I do not have the patience to explain to Prius drivers that my 30 + year old Dodge diesel truck is better for the environment than the electric car they trade in every 5 years....That runs on power made from a coal plant 100's of miles away. Basically they are driving a coal powered car.
It will also keep my engine oil cleaner over time, which keeps my motor happy.
So I will get a bunch of small bonuses, while loosing no performance. At the end of the day, I just like being efficient.
Yes it should improve MPG a bit. I am not looking to cut back on maximum fueling. I am looking to just delay it, so it is more in line with the HX35 turbos 30 PSI boost curve now. The old spring is so soft that you can not tune it well, so it does not compress to give you full fuel at say 20 PSI
Mostly just looking to clear up lower boost smoke as I live in a small town and everybody knows me as the Dodge guy. Puffs of black smoke every gear shift, as the turbo catches up, just gives the hippies something to point at and hate.
I do not have the patience to explain to Prius drivers that my 30 + year old Dodge diesel truck is better for the environment than the electric car they trade in every 5 years....That runs on power made from a coal plant 100's of miles away. Basically they are driving a coal powered car.
It will also keep my engine oil cleaner over time, which keeps my motor happy.
So I will get a bunch of small bonuses, while loosing no performance. At the end of the day, I just like being efficient.
The following 6 users liked this post by oliver foster:
DevynBurk (04-19-2024),
edwinsmith (04-19-2024),
NJTman (04-20-2024),
nonrev (04-19-2024),
Sheep Herder (04-19-2024),
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#8930
Registered User
I was working on Vern's old W250 and I figured I would test the intercooler system with my boost leak tool and some shop air. It seemed to be low on boost at light throttle.
Driving down the road at 50MPH with light throttle it would read 0 PSI. Rolling into the throttle and it would build boost to 30 PSI.
Sure enough I found a pretty decent hole in the OEM intercooler. After testing 9 different '92/'93 OEM intercoolers I had stashed on my shop shelves, I found only ONE that did not leak. That included intercoolers from trucks NOT from rusty New England. The intercooler I had brought back from AZ for the Gauntlet build...Leaked. The spare from the donor truck I used on the build for Project Covid which was from Florida...Leaked. I finally found one from a 2wd D250 from NH that did not leak.
I got the intercooler out without draining the A/C system by holding the A/C cooler out from the grille area while I snuck out the I/C out of the core support.
While putting everything back together I noted an intercooler boot that was looking tired, so I swapped it out. I noted one of the turn signals was cracked so I swapped in a better spare.
Before reassembling things behind the grille. I applied Fluid Film to the lower core support welds / metal seams, where I see them rust and rot often.
Today it is raining, so I will take it out to test out my work, and adjust the AFC spring if needed, tomorrow.
I got to hand it to nonrev, he sold me a really nice, solid truck years ago. Just a little fine tuning and it will be even better.
Driving down the road at 50MPH with light throttle it would read 0 PSI. Rolling into the throttle and it would build boost to 30 PSI.
Sure enough I found a pretty decent hole in the OEM intercooler. After testing 9 different '92/'93 OEM intercoolers I had stashed on my shop shelves, I found only ONE that did not leak. That included intercoolers from trucks NOT from rusty New England. The intercooler I had brought back from AZ for the Gauntlet build...Leaked. The spare from the donor truck I used on the build for Project Covid which was from Florida...Leaked. I finally found one from a 2wd D250 from NH that did not leak.
I got the intercooler out without draining the A/C system by holding the A/C cooler out from the grille area while I snuck out the I/C out of the core support.
While putting everything back together I noted an intercooler boot that was looking tired, so I swapped it out. I noted one of the turn signals was cracked so I swapped in a better spare.
Before reassembling things behind the grille. I applied Fluid Film to the lower core support welds / metal seams, where I see them rust and rot often.
Today it is raining, so I will take it out to test out my work, and adjust the AFC spring if needed, tomorrow.
I got to hand it to nonrev, he sold me a really nice, solid truck years ago. Just a little fine tuning and it will be even better.
The following 3 users liked this post by oliver foster:
#8932
Registered User
#8933
Registered User
The Powerstroke is a good upgrade IC from what I am seeing. However fabrication is in order. Is any of the Mishimoto's a bolt in?
Oliver did you just test the IC's with water laying flat?
Oliver did you just test the IC's with water laying flat?
#8934
Registered User
Yes I just filled each one with a gallon of water,
The one I ended up using held without making a wet spot on the floor for an hour before I poured it out, cleaned it up and installed it.
FFS [Far From Stock] does sell a Mishimoto IC but it needs some custom work to make it fit IE mounting brackets and boot / tube work. It also costs $$$
#8935
Registered User
I was lurking and thought I'd chime in with regards to 7.3 Intercooler swaps. I spent way too long looking for a used Power stroke 7.3 Intercooler with aluminum end tanks and finally decided to just go aftermarket, looked into the mishimoto intercooler and didn't like the price so I kept looking. What I found was an aftermarket 7.3 Intercooler part # CSF 6029 Heavy Duty Plate/Bar Design; w/ Aluminum Tank Design on Rockauto for $335 usd / $460 Can . It didn't take much to get it fitted, move the a/c condenser back, remove material on both sides of the rad support for the larger tubes, fab up some mounts and shorten the hood latch about a 1/2", new boots as the I/C has larger tubes. This intercooler performs wonderfully and is extremely well built. Hopefully someone finds this useful!
Small update - I went back and double checked and there's a cheaper version still aluminum end tanks but I believe with a traditional tube and fin style vs the bar and plate of the HD version.
CSF 6017 - $120 USD / $165 CAN
CSF 6029 - $335 USD / $460 CAN
Prices taken from Rockauto as they were the cheapest at the time of writing this.
Small update - I went back and double checked and there's a cheaper version still aluminum end tanks but I believe with a traditional tube and fin style vs the bar and plate of the HD version.
CSF 6017 - $120 USD / $165 CAN
CSF 6029 - $335 USD / $460 CAN
Prices taken from Rockauto as they were the cheapest at the time of writing this.
The following 3 users liked this post by Berta:
#8936
Registered User
That is great to know. as I am out of good 1st gen I/Cs
Thanks
Thanks
#8937
Registered User
I was lurking and thought I'd chime in with regards to 7.3 Intercooler swaps. I spent way too long looking for a used Power stroke 7.3 Intercooler with aluminum end tanks and finally decided to just go aftermarket, looked into the mishimoto intercooler and didn't like the price so I kept looking. What I found was an aftermarket 7.3 Intercooler part # CSF 6029 Heavy Duty Plate/Bar Design; w/ Aluminum Tank Design on Rockauto for $335 usd / $460 Can . It didn't take much to get it fitted, move the a/c condenser back, remove material on both sides of the rad support for the larger tubes, fab up some mounts and shorten the hood latch about a 1/2", new boots as the I/C has larger tubes. This intercooler performs wonderfully and is extremely well built. Hopefully someone finds this useful!
#8938
Registered User
Quite a bit cheaper than FFS I/C option at $1200, plus their bracket fit kit for $215 plus some boots for $180.
FFS also sells a budget friendly version of that I/C for $750.
FFS also sells a budget friendly version of that I/C for $750.
#8940
Registered User
Far From Stock.