What did you do to your Gen 1 today?
#8704
Registered User
Well, I took my 91.5 out today it's the first time I have driven it since around December. I had shoulder surgery in march and it is still not working very good shifting thru the gears, hopefully in a couple more weeks
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nonrev (05-04-2023),
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#8706
Registered User
Wrapped up, for the most part, my hydroboost conversion and the HB unit leaks like a sieve. I guess I fubared the piston seal. I just looked online and a reman is $261 plus core. I don't have no stinking core since I cut and threaded the pedal input rod so I could adjust the pedal height! Oh my. I'll post up what I did on the conversion when it's done.
The following 2 users liked this post by bigredbrick:
nothingbutdarts (05-12-2023),
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#8707
Registered User
Decided to change my battery disconnect.Got tired of raising the hood all the time
So I made this stainless steel box for my disconnect
After getting welding Leeds all ready to finish job realized I didn’t have big enough shrink tube so had to wait another day
But finally done
The following 2 users liked this post by Gunch:
nothingbutdarts (05-12-2023),
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#8708
Registered User
Set my 10x10 pop up party doodad so I could work under it on the truck.
I had bought a injector/line socket a while back. Wrong size. I didn't realize if I had the right socket I could have pulled the injector lines in 2 pieces. I pulled them all one by one as I had to use a 17mm open end wrench. Marked all the lines with water proof medical tape and labeled them. I wrote on my parts box the order I removed them. Just need to reverse the order.
Everything is disconnected except the 2 nuts holding the pump onto the timing cover, and that pain in the *** support bracket in the rear. Pulled #1 valve cover and that motor is really clean inside! Looks like it may be close to TDC according to the rocker arms.
I got my 60+ valve springs in yesterday from Poorboys Diesel.
I didn't even think about getting new valve seals,
Would you retorque the head? 324, or 374K on the clicker.
I have another IP in the shop. Not sure on the history. Looks like it was driven in muddy fields. Might have a 40hp pin in it. The smoke screw isn't adjusted right from what I can see.
I had bought a injector/line socket a while back. Wrong size. I didn't realize if I had the right socket I could have pulled the injector lines in 2 pieces. I pulled them all one by one as I had to use a 17mm open end wrench. Marked all the lines with water proof medical tape and labeled them. I wrote on my parts box the order I removed them. Just need to reverse the order.
Everything is disconnected except the 2 nuts holding the pump onto the timing cover, and that pain in the *** support bracket in the rear. Pulled #1 valve cover and that motor is really clean inside! Looks like it may be close to TDC according to the rocker arms.
I got my 60+ valve springs in yesterday from Poorboys Diesel.
I didn't even think about getting new valve seals,
Would you retorque the head? 324, or 374K on the clicker.
I have another IP in the shop. Not sure on the history. Looks like it was driven in muddy fields. Might have a 40hp pin in it. The smoke screw isn't adjusted right from what I can see.
#8709
Registered User
Opinions might differ, but the factory bolts are TTY, so don't blind retorque them. Cummins has a stretch gauge to see if they're reusable. That said, mine were all fine when pulled at 400k when I switched to studs
#8710
Registered User
Trick I've found that works best for getting that back side nut off quickly and easily...remove your PS/Vacuum pump! Takes less than 15 minutes to remove it then less than a minute to get that nut off.
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#8711
Registered User
Sounds like the plan If I can walk tomorrow. Grabbed the bottle of Aleve for some relief. Might be raining in the morning. Will walk off the pain at Walmart. Need some degreaser for that other IP.
#8713
Registered User
I have a set of gray armrests from a salvage truck i scavenged parts for mine. I saved the door panels also. The windows were manual cranks. Have both sets of handles, locks, linkage and vent window glass if anyone is interested.
#8714
Registered User
Today took my ds window and bottom lift track to the glass shop to have them urethane it together. The forward vertical guide above the window opening had a chip in it and it rusted a little. cleaned rust out, a little spot putty,sanded and painted semi gloss black. Window will go back in tomorrow. Scrubbed the heck out of the door panels.Shampooed the carpeted and gray material area on them. Looking sharp. Would like to put new armrest pads on but $160 each? That's nuts. Mine are elbow divoted but not torn. Getting closer, next will be fusible link delete. Then..... I'm thinking about cosmetic resto on the engine and compartment.