What did you do to your Gen 1 today?
#7981
Registered User
With the G360 preload has always been an issue. Set these transmissions up tight! They have taper rollers on the ends vs regular rollers.
If they are set up loose they will make a ton of noise.
If they are set up loose they will make a ton of noise.
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FrustratedFirst (04-27-2020)
#7983
Registered User
As far as replacing bearings, it would be up to how bad they look upon disassembly. I recently had the G360 apart in my '74 W200. The donor G360 promptly destroyed the pocket bearing in the input, along with the countershaft bearings. (the preload was too loose, I should have pulled it apart when I got it, but it only had 56k on it) Input and output bearings looked fine. My biggest problem was the pocket bearing race is machined into the input shaft. So after consulting a good friend, who is engineer we, took the shaft to a machine shop and had it reworked to accept a common bearing race and reworked the output side of the mainshaft to accept the companion bearing.
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#7984
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
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Yes. It will cause abnormal gear wear by allowing the main shaft (it's 2 piece) to kind of flex laterally under load, and destroy the pocket bearing in the input shaft. Usually if this gets excessive the input gear will be damaged along with the corresponding countershaft gear.
As far as replacing bearings, it would be up to how bad they look upon disassembly. I recently had the G360 apart in my '74 W200. The donor G360 promptly destroyed the pocket bearing in the input, along with the countershaft bearings. (the preload was too loose, I should have pulled it apart when I got it, but it only had 56k on it) Input and output bearings looked fine. My biggest problem was the pocket bearing race is machined into the input shaft. So after consulting a good friend, who is engineer we, took the shaft to a machine shop and had it reworked to accept a common bearing race and reworked the output side of the mainshaft to accept the companion bearing.
As far as replacing bearings, it would be up to how bad they look upon disassembly. I recently had the G360 apart in my '74 W200. The donor G360 promptly destroyed the pocket bearing in the input, along with the countershaft bearings. (the preload was too loose, I should have pulled it apart when I got it, but it only had 56k on it) Input and output bearings looked fine. My biggest problem was the pocket bearing race is machined into the input shaft. So after consulting a good friend, who is engineer we, took the shaft to a machine shop and had it reworked to accept a common bearing race and reworked the output side of the mainshaft to accept the companion bearing.
Any pics of that ? Sounds wery, wery intwisting, wabbit.
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FrustratedFirst (04-27-2020)
#7985
Registered User
#7986
Registered User
I do have a few pics. Not real interesting. I'll post them shortly
I don't know how much of a "trainer" I am. A lot I have learned has been from failure and then failing better. I have read a lot of Mysterman's old posts, that is worth the research
I don't know how much of a "trainer" I am. A lot I have learned has been from failure and then failing better. I have read a lot of Mysterman's old posts, that is worth the research
#7987
Well, my purchased from CUMMINS fuel transfer pump that cost $108.00 & I bought it on Nov. 2018 is leaking out the primer lever. Love it, NOT!!!
On a brighter note, tomorrow I hope to start my 2001 & take it for a drive, I haven't started it since August of 2017. A little barn sour I guess.
On a brighter note, tomorrow I hope to start my 2001 & take it for a drive, I haven't started it since August of 2017. A little barn sour I guess.
#7988
Registered User
G360 oil change
I just changed the oil in my GetRag 360. I was able to get 4.5 quarts in with the elbow setup that I have. I used a 1/2 inch on one end of the elbow to fit the hole in the side of the trans and 3/4 on the other with a plug. I may need to add a short nipple for next time so I can get the full 5qt. in.
I got a little hand piston pump from O'Reilly's a while back which sure comes in handy. I had to cut the end of the tube at a sharp angle like a hypodermic needle to get it to go around the bend in the elbow and into the trans. Keeping the pickup tube at the bottom of the jug was hard until I slipped a 1/2 inch drive socket over it and secured it with a tie-wrap.
Then I just pumped until oil overflowed my elbow. I had about a pint left in the jug.
TIP: Put the drain plug back in before you refill the trans.
Edwin
I got a little hand piston pump from O'Reilly's a while back which sure comes in handy. I had to cut the end of the tube at a sharp angle like a hypodermic needle to get it to go around the bend in the elbow and into the trans. Keeping the pickup tube at the bottom of the jug was hard until I slipped a 1/2 inch drive socket over it and secured it with a tie-wrap.
Then I just pumped until oil overflowed my elbow. I had about a pint left in the jug.
TIP: Put the drain plug back in before you refill the trans.
Edwin
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nothingbutdarts (05-02-2020)
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nonrev (05-02-2020)
#7990
Registered User
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lumax-Le...1300/302544837
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#7991
Registered User
After I did the trans I changed the oil and filter of the engine. I usually put the dirty oil back in the jugs the new oil came in but for some reason I spilled oil all over the garage. So put down a bunch of floor dry and will have to sweep it up tomorrow. Then I hit the showers. Checked the mail and got my stimulus check.
Edwin
Edwin
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nonrev (05-02-2020)
#7992
Registered User
I switched to a bucket pump and bulk 80W90 lube almost 10 years ago. Sooo much nicer... and cheaper!
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lumax-Le...1300/302544837
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lumax-Le...1300/302544837
That is the only way to fill diffs, t-cases and trans. I have 3 of those, one for 80/90W, one for ATF Mec/Dex, and one that is used for whatever I need (costs about a half a quart of oil to get it uncontaminated with previous fluid).
#7993
Registered User
Finally welded my driver's seat in the upright position. Been fighting that thing for almost a year. And a drive to WY from CA is in my future. Also took the passenger bucket out and made the tip bracket functional again. The armrests were all wobbly so I tightened the screws and threw little slices of heater hose on the stops. If work doesn't pickup in the oil biz I might end up with a comfortable truck.
#7994
Registered User
Finally welded my driver's seat in the upright position. Been fighting that thing for almost a year. And a drive to WY from CA is in my future. Also took the passenger bucket out and made the tip bracket functional again. The armrests were all wobbly so I tightened the screws and threw little slices of heater hose on the stops. If work doesn't pickup in the oil biz I might end up with a comfortable truck.
#7995
Registered User
Brother-in-law just moved up with their family. It'll be a visit/scouting operation. I'm a tradesman, the scale up there is about the same before you add the 20% raise by dodging CA income tax and houses are less than half the price. It's a no brainer. I'll miss surfing, blowing black smoke at tailgating Teslas and I'll have to re-install my grid heaters...