edwinsmith

Well I finally got round to replacing the Autometer tach and Pyrometer that went bad inexplicably. Had to reroute the pyro thermocouple leads because on the new one they use a plug rather than terminal posts.I still have to calibrate the tach but I first have to figure out how my brand new cheapo optical tack works.

I also got my right side window motor fixed (above) and I drilled a 4-1/2 inch hole in the heater box and cleaned out 30 odd years of brush and leaves that had accumulated. I replaced the hole with a screw in plate to make the job easier in the future.

I still have a few maintenance things to do which have been piling up since I had heart surgery. It feels great to get back at my main hobby.

Edwin

Taylorm2121

My speakers had completely fell apart and no I didn't have the plastic shields, but I did pick up a pair at the pull a part salvage yard yesterday.

edwinsmith

The shields or the shields and speakers? The speakers are a standard 6x9" size and widely available. I need to look and see if I can find them with plastic cones which should be more resistant to moisture.

Edwin

peckens

Finally got my hydroboost installed. So far after my test drive it was worth it.

Taylorm2121

I picked up just the shields, of course the speakers in that parts truck were also no good!
It is looking like Polk Marine speakers from crutchfield my be the easiest way to go.

edwinsmith

The Autometer Diesel tachometer uses a magnetic pickup attached to the alternator to determine the RPM of the engine. In order to calibrate the tach to read properly it should be done at the highest rpm or nearly that.

I bought this cheapo optical tach but yesterday it wouldn't pickup the piece of foil tape I placed on the damper before. I had to scrape that off and use the special reflective tape which came with the meter. The tape has microscopic 90 degree cubes in it to reflect light back to its source. The foil tape wouldn't do that so the laser light just didn't get back to the optical tach in sufficient intensity.

I had the wife push the go pedal to the floor until the governor limited the RPM's to 3299 according to the optical tach. Since I have a 3200 RPM governor spring I considered this close enough. Then I got in and pushed it to the floor again and set the Autometer tach to 3300 RPM or as close as I could see.

Then I took the wife for a drive down the freeway and I swear the truck runs better with a working tach and pyrometer. Of course we stopped at Sonic on the way back for supper. BURRRP!

Edwin

edwinsmith

I fount these on Amazon.
They might fill the bill. IDK if the midrange/tweeter in the middle sticks out to much to fit properly in the doors. They are rated at 300W (150W+150W) which should be sufficient to blow the wax out of your ears or make you completely deaf or both. I'd have to consult the manual on my radio to see how much power it puts out but I sincerely doubt it's anywhere near 300W. I might have to get a power amp to be loud enough to hear over the diesel.

BTW had my head under the hood running an optical tach while the wife had the go pedal floored. Not en experience I'd recommend without hearing protection.

Edwin

u2slow

Spent the last few days changing the clutch and G360 in the W250. Quite sure I lost a day in there cleaning caked dirt & oil off things. Replaced all of the following:

- rear main seal
- used adapter plate (broken-off bolt)
- used flywheel (scuffed with 120 grit)
- new Sachs-copy 13" clutch
- used, previously rebuilt transmission (G360)
- used top cover (with intact shifter spring)
Glad thats over. Clutch is so smooth. Trans shifts crisply, and no more 3rd gear rattle.

FrustratedFirst

I had my G360 tranny overhauled bout 6 months ago along with the transfer case. New clutch is wonderful. Shortly after i got it back i noticed a loud roar and grinding rattling when idling in neutral. Press the clutch in and the noise goes away. Took it back to the shop that did the work, they said they pulled the tranny again to shim the pilot bearing on i guess the idler shaft. Did not solve the roar and rattling noise. The shop said to drive it a while to see if it wears in and noise stops. Also the shop put 80-90W gear oil in the tranny. Is this okay? He said it would help the wear of the old tranny and maybe stop the noise. Also this time after shimming the pilot bearing it is difficult to get it into reverse without first going up to 5th gear then back down. Don't believe they changed any of the synchronizers. Anyone else experience this??

Thx!

u2slow

The roar in neutral is familiar. Had that occasionally in my D250. It too went went away I stepped on the clutch. The problem there was the input bearing was shot and the input had destroyed the pilot bushing. (i.e. nothing left in the hole; turned to rubble).

80-90W is not correct for the trans. I haven't tried gear oil in one before. I do use thicker than 5w30 though... but its 5W50 synthetic. No issues.

The reverse thing sounds like a separate problem. Fairly typical with well-used manuals. I usually let the clutch out again in neutral for a moment, and then chances are the gears stop in a slightly different spot, and try reverse again.

I haven't rebuilt a G360 yet. Now I have two beaten-up units and a rebuild kit to try my luck with.

edwinsmith

Almost exactly 3 years ago I bought a rebuilt G360 from Allstate Gear in San Antonio, TX. Installed it right away and immediately found that it rattled in neutral at idle. I don't hear any grinding noise. When I reported it back to them they tried to tell me it was the throwout bearing but I also installed a new flywheel with new pilot bearing, new clutch and pressure plate along with a NEW throwout bearing. I didn't have time to argue with them but a later examination with a stethoscope revealed the noise is coming from the trans and NOT anywhere else.

I'm pretty sure the noise stems from to much slack in the bearings because the preload was not set correctly. They probably did it on purpose to make things last longer. It doesn't make any noise otherwise except in 4th at low speed and torque (30mph or less) otherwise it performs perfectly. I think the reason Dodge specifies ATF and others use 5w30 engine oil is that the bearings have like zero slack when properly preloaded and need the thin oil to keep the tapered roller bearings properly lubed. I've thought about using heavier lube but I don't want to burn up any bearings just for the minor noise. Eventually I may pull the trans out and try my luck at re-setting the preload properly.

Edwin

N. Besonderes

I just installed a NEW NV4500 that I bought from Allstate Gear (I live close enough that I was able to drive down and pick it up). Also new clutch and flywheel. So far, no irregular noises or problems (jinx!).
If I start to notice anything weird, I will report back. I got the impression from talking to them that they were a decent outfit. Time will tell.

-Niemand

edwinsmith

What really irks me is the fact that the only thing wrong with my old trans was the 5th/reverse shift fork was worn which made it prone to getting locked in either 5th or reverse. I wish I'd simply bought the parts since the repair would have probably added 30 minutes to the trans swap time. I had no rattling /grinding at all save for the low speed rumble in 4th. With Allstate the circumstances made it impossible for me to pull the trans and make them fix it. I'm glad you had good luck with your NV4500.

Edwin

thrashingcows

All of this is why I rebuilt my NV4500 myself. I had done a couple Mopar A833's but never a 5spd cummins gear box, lots of research and a rebuild manual and I had at it, getting the preload right on the counter shaft, and then the main shaft was a PITA I have to say....I can see why that would be an area where they might short cut. Been going for over 115K km's so far with lots of heavy pulling so I can't complain.

FrustratedFirst

Thanks sIr! Much appreciated. Least now I can research "preload" and talk intelligently when I take it back to the shop cause there is a leak on the top shift lever flange. Peaves me to spend that money and have it all painted shiny like new and the guy tells me it's prolly the fill plug is loose.