thrashingcows

What the frick....how does a patchy driveway affect your homeowners insurance? Good work though...

thrashingcows

Rolled up another 5K km's on the truck...365K km's now...so swapped in another new filter, that's over 15K km's since about April, rolling some miles this year. Also decided to change the air filter since I couldn't remember when I did it last but was sure it could not have been more then a year and a half....well I put the date and mileage on my filters when I install them so I was a bit surprised when I pulled the air filter out and I installed it back in November of 2016 and mileage was 302K km's. So 33 months and 63K km's it was definitely time.



Also put some new summer skins of the truck, the old ones were worn down to almost slicks. Couldn't afford high end tires this time since I have had to buy 2 good sets of winter tires for the daughters cars since their winter driving safety is very important. But these tires are made by Cooper but are sold through Canadian tire under their Motomaster brand, and they were having a sale on the 235/85/16 tires so got a screaming deal on them as well. Read a bunch of reviews and they all said they were pretty decent tires of thread wear and ride quality....we will see I guess.

Blue Goose

yeah gotta take care of the girls

NJTman

Thanks!

My wife's job for the last 35 years has been an auto / homeowners insurance agent. We recently, after nearly 20 years, switched to a new company. The new company requires an initial home inspection. When they came. We walked the house, and the agent left. In their response report, they said, the driveway is disintegrating, and is potential cause of a slip and fall. Mailman, gas company reader, idiot salesman, etc.

They gave me one month to repair. If not, the new policy will be nullified, and deposit returned.

I just need to coat it with a sealer to fill the cracks, so when winter rolls in, spalling won't continue and I'll get a longer life out of it.

Blue Goose

I was just shopping around for homeowners once, and had an agent deny us because there were a couple window sills with some peeling paint.

NJTman

Local township official stopped by to randomly inspect my property and vehiicles.

He's easily swayed, usually with a can of sardines or catnip.

Gunch

Took a 130 mile ride today to the spring shop to look at front springs .He told me to take measurements of the front before and with it jacked up to we’re I want it , both sides and he’ll arch them accordingly so both sides are the same height.So when I get to it we c.With no charge .That sounded good to me.

Shelby/Dakota

ran some errands with the truck yesterday. While stopped and waiting for the flagger to allow my side of traffic to go, my brake pedal sank down to the floor and the brake light/ABS light came on. Brakes continued to hold the truck fine as I was on a slope and didn't roll into the traffic behind me. Then at the next time I hit the brakes the dash lights went out but if I had to hold the pedal it continued to sink like before.
Does this sound like a vacuum issue, do I possibly need to spend some more time bleeding the system? Does the RWAL need bled? Looking to find an answer as I am supposed to tow my camper on a 3 hour trip in two weeks.

Thanks

NJTman

Poor vacuum would mean pedal hard as a rock.

Pedal to floor usually means air has infiltrated the system. This usually occurs at,the rear wheel cylinders or a failed steel or rubber line somewhere else .

When you open the brake reservoir / master cyl cap, what is the fluid situation? Low in either the large chamber (front brakes) or the small chamber (rear) ?

My immediate guess, always is the rear wheel cylinders. Don't forget to look at the mounting plate where the master bolts to the booster. Fluid there means your master cyl died

Shelby/Dakota

I was thinking air in the system. I'll check the master, haven't had a chance since I got it home. Just replaced rear wheelcylinder ders and brake lines this spring. Adjusted the brakes per this sites instructions. Just found it weird that it happened like this. Though it could be the master pooped the bed.

Thanks.

KRB

Check to make sure there are no damp spots where the lines run. It won't necessarily drip & puddle unless the leak is bad. I was working on a friend's F250 doing the same thinking the master had failed and was leaking fluid into the vacuum booster and it took a while to realize the line had rusted between the frame and gas tank. The dirt and rust was soaking it up

Not in my truck but on a related note, heading home yesterday in my 1990 Corolla wagon DD I came upon an intersection doing about 55 when the light turned in one of those "can I make it/should I stop/do I speed up?" situations. Decided I should stop, not a panic stop but was rather hard. I immediately felt a pop in the pedal and it dropped. Fortunately there were no cars in front of me and none in the turn lane so I slowed the best I could and took a hard right turn squealing the tires worried that the cross traffic might start. The rear line blew but I was able to carefully limp home on the fronts. Never a good feeling...

NJTman

I had a front caliper banjo bolt copper seal seep air, one time. Never leaked, but sucked air in.

Drove me crazy clam nuts.

NotEnufGarage

Installed a drivers bucket seat and console from a 1990 Ramcharger. Passenger seat will take a bit of effort to reinforce the latch rod on the floor and to fab a bracket for the gas shock that keeps it from slamming into the windshield.

Gunch

Got my superbright bulbs yesterday for the map light and dome light couldn’t wait to install they are sweet.

Shelby/Dakota

Bled my brake lines today, got a ton of air from the abs module. That seems to have taken care of the pedal woes.