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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
I've been in the habit of using diesel fuel for cleaning and de-greasing parts for a while now.
Probably not the safest thing in the world to use but man, does it cut right through grease and oil. Also, it's always readily available and doesn't harm paint.
I've been gathering parts to do this project for too long of a time now and decided to finally tackle it. I used a Crown Vic power distribution panel, it worked out well as I was able to use maxi fuses for the fuse links, put the head light and plow light relays in there, and there's still room to grow. So I ended up saving this fuse link assembly, I cut all the wires past the factory splices. It has no burned/repaired links and was functional in my 1991 truck. If somebody needs it be the first to PM me and it's yours for the cost postage, I imagine a flat rate box will be sufficient. No warranty expressed or implied, your mileage may vary, batteries not included. This is from a '91, I don't know if all years are the same.
I used a similar distribution box in my 74 Crew build. They are in most 90's Fords. I used a 120 grit cookie and removed that F-O-R-D from the top. It had room for 2 headlight relays, one for starter, one for VR, and a spare. And did a similar hot lead from the Alt to a mega fuse. Made the wiring nice and clean. Good job man!
Last edited by BHD; 11-27-2018 at 05:52 PM.
Reason: typing
Yesterday.. I spent 9 hours lying on my back underneath the brick.
The day before, in order to stop the pan leak, they used my chrysler reusable gasket that they should have used originally. Unfortunately, they did exactly what I asked them not to, and overtightened the mounting bolts to the pan. I asked them 3 times if they were to use the gasket to "do it by hand". Nope. They gorilla cranked them, and the new gasket is ruined. It's currently not leaking, but I'm sure it will disappoint me at some point in the near future.
I removed the downpipe, and inspected the torque converter bolts. Out of the 5 bolts, 3 were not as tight as the other two. IOW, I could tighten them slightly. The other two were very tight. Luckily, they had locktite on them, and the one I removed has new locktite on it. I find it hard to understand how those bolts can only be torqued to 35 ft lbs from the factory, as it just doesn't seem enough to me. I simply made them all the same as the two tight ones, and I guess I'll forget about it at this point now.
Cleaned up some rust under there, lubricated the 4x4 shift lever gate, checked a bunch of bolts, removed the front driveshaft straps, put locktite on the bolts, and put back together, greased the 3 u joints, as god forbid the trans shop would have done it.
I sanded the rust off the downpipe, and found the pipe looked like a swiss cheese product. Ordered a new DE system.
The diagnostic work I did to the harness on the torque converter solenoid wiring connector was still as it was when I dropped it off at the trans shop. I removed it and properly spliced the wiring back to what it was originally, without any quick disconnects, using the JIM Lane method.
While under there I inspected the new TV cable I installed minutes before dropping the truck off at the trans shop. Since they never adjusted anything, I thought I'd look it over. Well, wouldn't you know it, the bastard who installed the trans, removed the cable from the bracket, and when the MORON put it back in there, he installed it with the locking tab facing the wrong direction. He bent the bracket so it would fit, and re-routed the cable the wrong way around the coolant tubes and the starter. Had to disassemble, bend the bracket back into shape, re-route the cable correctly, and re-install it.
I'll be continuing my quest of checking everything such as tightened bolts, rear driveshaft straps, and u-joints, gear oil in the transfer case, and anything else I think these jacka$$es might have messed with.
UGH.... Nothing more disappointing
IMO, it's always.... always better to work on your own vehicle, and not let some gorilla richard cranium do the work for ya.
When I had my trans done it took the shop 3 attempts to rebuild my trans and 3 solid weeks. Hey did such a terrible job I ended up cutting my losses. Hey even ruined some brand new billet parts I wanted them to jnstall. They just left them on the floor board for me.
Unfortunately I can no longer crawl around under the truck for much more than an oil change. R&R a tranny is out of the question. It's too bad that competent help is nearly impossible to find. It must be the products of Liberal Arts educational system we now have. Glad you got it straightened out. Hope you don't find any more surprises especially ones that show up when you're 50 miles from nowhere in Elephant Breath Montana.
Man! I gonna let my wife read this one! She thinks I'm particular about my truck!!! But the same happens to me on any vehicle or what ever I'm having worked on! Gonna have to remember the gorilla richard cranium reference! HA! Capital HA!!!!!!
When I had my trans done it took the shop 3 attempts to rebuild my trans and 3 solid weeks. Hey did such a terrible job I ended up cutting my losses. Hey even ruined some brand new billet parts I wanted them to jnstall. They just left them on the floor board for me.
well, at least I'm not alone on this. I guess this is what I'm in for. I guess I could leave an honest, '"so so" review about the process, praising the guy who built the trans, and dissing the idiot who put the trans in without properly tightening everything, overfilling it, installing the TV Cable wrong, etc, but that unfortunately won't get me anywhere, and makes me look bad "Badmouthing" them directly, vs the indirect and anonymous way I'm doing it now. I'm venting, and I guess you guy get that... and if not. Bite me.
Unfortunately I can no longer crawl around under the truck for much more than an oil change. R&R a tranny is out of the question. It's too bad that competent help is nearly impossible to find. It must be the products of Liberal Arts educational system we now have. Glad you got it straightened out. Hope you don't find any more surprises especially ones that show up when you're 50 miles from nowhere in Elephant Breath Montana.
Edwin
Elephant breath Montana ? Can't say I've ever been there. Sounds a bit stinky.
Today, I went back under there again, and checked more stuff.
The fluid, which was brand new, then dumped to put my gasket on, which they overtightened when I told them not to, so far isn't leaking out of the pan. Drips under the converter, yes, but they're just a few drips. Nothing major. Maybe they'll go away over time, or not, but I guess we'll see.
Drained the excess fluid out of the trans today for a second time. You would think that these idiots would make sure that the jack a moe that's continuing to bring his truck back because he's nitpicking your work, you would make sure that you did things right, so he wouldn't come back ???
Eh... I guess not.They might just be too stupid to check the fluid in neutral. No idea what their motivation for this is.
Fixed some electrical connections today for my marker lights, changed out the fuel filter, fixed the potentiometer which I replaced to start this whole mess.
Yesterday.. I spent 9 hours lying on my back underneath the brick.
The day before, in order to stop the pan leak, they used my chrysler reusable gasket that they should have used originally. Unfortunately, they did exactly what I asked them not to, and overtightened the mounting bolts to the pan. I asked them 3 times if they were to use the gasket to "do it by hand". Nope. They gorilla cranked them, and the new gasket is ruined. It's currently not leaking, but I'm sure it will disappoint me at some point in the near future.
I removed the downpipe, and inspected the torque converter bolts. Out of the 5 bolts, 3 were not as tight as the other two. IOW, I could tighten them slightly. The other two were very tight. Luckily, they had locktite on them, and the one I removed has new locktite on it. I find it hard to understand how those bolts can only be torqued to 35 ft lbs from the factory, as it just doesn't seem enough to me. I simply made them all the same as the two tight ones, and I guess I'll forget about it at this point now.
Cleaned up some rust under there, lubricated the 4x4 shift lever gate, checked a bunch of bolts, removed the front driveshaft straps, put locktite on the bolts, and put back together, greased the 3 u joints, as god forbid the trans shop would have done it.
I sanded the rust off the downpipe, and found the pipe looked like a swiss cheese product. Ordered a new DE system.
The diagnostic work I did to the harness on the torque converter solenoid wiring connector was still as it was when I dropped it off at the trans shop. I removed it and properly spliced the wiring back to what it was originally, without any quick disconnects, using the JIM Lane method.
While under there I inspected the new TV cable I installed minutes before dropping the truck off at the trans shop. Since they never adjusted anything, I thought I'd look it over. Well, wouldn't you know it, the bastard who installed the trans, removed the cable from the bracket, and when the MORON put it back in there, he installed it with the locking tab facing the wrong direction. He bent the bracket so it would fit, and re-routed the cable the wrong way around the coolant tubes and the starter. Had to disassemble, bend the bracket back into shape, re-route the cable correctly, and re-install it.
I'll be continuing my quest of checking everything such as tightened bolts, rear driveshaft straps, and u-joints, gear oil in the transfer case, and anything else I think these jacka$$es might have messed with.
UGH.... Nothing more disappointing
IMO, it's always.... always better to work on your own vehicle, and not let some gorilla richard cranium do the work for ya.
I wonder if the two tight bolts on your TC were the only two that the Locktite worked on. If the threads on the other three (internal and external) were not clean and dry, maybe it just didn't set up?
Too bad nobody wants to do bench rebuilds anymore. I miss those days.
P I put some new shoes on the 73 today. RBP Repulsor 315/75R16’s. Good traction for the winter here in Northern AR. We don’t get a lot of snow, but if I need up in the ditch, she’ll bite and climb back out of it easily. Haven’t been doing much on the truck lately. Actually, I’m looking for an 80-91 suburban, 3/4 ton 4x4 to haul the family around (easy parts availability) while I park the Dodge and tear it apart. Looking to fix a little rust, finish body work and paint and then do the interior.
P I put some new shoes on the 73 today. RBP Repulsor 315/75R16’s. Good traction for the winter here in Northern AR. We don’t get a lot of snow, but if I need up in the ditch, she’ll bite and climb back out of it easily. Haven’t been doing much on the truck lately. Actually, I’m looking for an 80-91 suburban, 3/4 ton 4x4 to haul the family around (easy parts availability) while I park the Dodge and tear it apart. Looking to fix a little rust, finish body work and paint and then do the interior.
Hey! Those sure look purdy! I bet them will fit the back of my truck real fine. What did you say your address is? Any dogs on the property?
I wonder if the two tight bolts on your TC were the only two that the Locktite worked on. If the threads on the other three (internal and external) were not clean and dry, maybe it just didn't set up?
Too bad nobody wants to do bench rebuilds anymore. I miss those days.
-Niemand
The TC bolts were "snug" but not tight as the other two. There was blue locktite on them, as I removed one of the bolts, and found it on there. The other bolts were just as difficult to spin, so yes, they all had locktite on them, but 3 were just not seated. I'll be pulling the exhaust again in the spring after I get a few miles on it, and checking the bolts. I may just replace all the bolts again anyway, at that time. Chrysler still sells them, and they're not expensive.
While under the truck today, cleaning / applying metal prep and POR 15 on the oil pan, and part of the framerail behind the exh downpipe, I discovered the idiots who did my trans, and had to remove the pan a 3rd time, didn't use all the original bolts I sent the truck there with. No idea why, but they replaced them with new bolts. Problem is that the new bolts are TOO LONG. They don't seat against the pan, and now the gasket I made such a big stink about is seeping. Its not enough to worry about, and in the spring, when all the snow is gone, I'll be removing and replacing the $40 gasket again, and switching to synthetic fluid. At that time, I'll fix their screwup and it won't seep anymore.
I just can't say how unhappy I am, other than the long drawn out email I sent them this AM, with photos of the screws not seated. No response, and that's exactly what I expected.
I put some new shoes on the 73 today. RBP Repulsor 315/75R16’s. Good traction for the winter here in Northern AR. We don’t get a lot of snow, but if I need up in the ditch, she’ll bite and climb back out of it easily. Haven’t been doing much on the truck lately. Actually, I’m looking for an 80-91 suburban, 3/4 ton 4x4 to haul the family around (easy parts availability) while I park the Dodge and tear it apart. Looking to fix a little rust, finish body work and paint and then do the interior.
That truck is just so sweet. Love that nose on that truck.
What did the new balloons cost ya ? Look mighty grippy...
Installed a new alternator.
haven't done much in a while, but after getting creative just to get home yesterday, the new install was needed. Told the wife I was sure glad she got me an alternator for Christmas, I really needed it.
Pretty shiney thing. Just looks out of place under my hood. It just needs to perform.
Hey NJT,, I don't let other folk's work on my trucks ( 1-90 D350,, 1-91.5 D250 ) it's not that I don't trust'm ,,, " I DON'T TRUST'M ",,Vent here all you want to ,, were here for ya'.
11-26-2018, 06:59 PM
