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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
12,000 lbs and 1,200 tongue weight used normally.
14,000 lbs and 1,700 tongue weight with weight distribution bars. The part number from Etrailer is DT45505
Oh. That’s not too bad, but I think I’ll go with the Curt hitch that is rated at 16,000. I like having peace of mind. Knowing me, I’d probably go over that rating even from time to time. Seems like cows get heavy in a hurry plus the trailer. I don’t tow that heavy often, but I do do stuff on my grandma’s ranch from time to time. I also go and get fire wood for my grandparents and that can get heavy before I realize.
Oh. That’s not too bad, but I think I’ll go with the Curt hitch that is rated at 16,000. I like having peace of mind. Knowing me, I’d probably go over that rating even from time to time.
The reason that I went with the 2 1/2” is because I wanted to run the Weigh Safe ball drop. The 2 1/2” is rated at 14.5k and the 2” is rated at 10k. Even though the hitch is rated higher, the ball drop wouldn’t be. The trick setup would be a 3” hitch. The 3” Weigh Safe drop is rated at 21k, but I didn’t see a 3” hitch on Etrailer and I don’t have time to have one built and certified. I REALLY like having the ability to check the actual tongue weight, rather than using my calibrated eye to set the load and measure truck squat. I haven’t had any issues, but piece of mind is nice.
The reason that I went with the 2 1/2” is because I wanted to run the Weigh Safe ball drop. The 2 1/2” is rated at 14.5k and the 2” is rated at 10k. Even though the hitch is rated higher, the ball drop wouldn’t be. The trick setup would be a 3” hitch. The 3” Weigh Safe drop is rated at 21k, but I didn’t see a 3” hitch on Etrailer and I don’t have time to have one built and certified. I REALLY like having the ability to check the actual tongue weight, rather than using my calibrated eye to set the load and measure truck squat. I haven’t had any issues, but piece of mind is nice.
Ahh. I’m not in as big of a hurry since my hitch works for now since I don’t tow a bunch very often. Just another thing on the list haha I think everyone on this thread knows how the lists go
I got my step removed, for clearance of the ball drop, in the raised position. Hopefully I’ll have time to clean it up with a flapper and throw some paint on it this week. I do like that the weight it pushed further forward, towards the axle. Also, there less of a shin killer sticking out.
Well my message center decided a few days ago to stop working, I tried disconnecting the battery over night but still nothing. Well this morning when I was done work I decided to pull out the most specialized tool in my inventory.....My ability to induce blunt force trauma! I pounded on the dash a couple times above the message center with one hand, then curled up that big ham hand and used a couple big hairy knuckles to bang on the message center itself. Sat back panting from the exertion and turned the key.....yup message center is working again!
I pounded on the dash a couple times above the message center with one hand, then curled up that big ham hand and used a couple big hairy knuckles to bang on the message center itself.
Well my message center decided a few days ago to stop working, I tried disconnecting the battery over night but fstill nothing. Well this morning when I was done work I decided to pull out the most specialized tool in my inventory.....My ability to induce blunt force trauma! I pounded on the dash a couple times above the message center with one hand, then curled up that big ham hand and used a couple big hairy knuckles to bang on the message center itself. Sat back panting from the exertion and turned the key.....yup message center is working again!
Nice job. I took mine out and put the gauges in there. We don need no steenkin message centers.
Well my message center decided a few days ago to stop working, I tried disconnecting the battery over night but still nothing. Well this morning when I was done work I decided to pull out the most specialized tool in my inventory.....My ability to induce blunt force trauma! I pounded on the dash a couple times above the message center with one hand, then curled up that big ham hand and used a couple big hairy knuckles to bang on the message center itself. Sat back panting from the exertion and turned the key.....yup message center is working again!
A bit off topic, but I have a 60 inch LG plasma tv that, after just a year or so, started turning itself off. I did a search and found a guy with the same problem that gave his a smack in a very specific spot (after some experimental smacking),near the power cord, and it quit doing that. So,I did the same and it worked. Its like there is an iffy contact that a whack fixes. It has been working for a year or so since...Mark
FINALLY got my gauges wired and plumbed in. Had the day off.. It took almost all day. I ran the wiring and tubing down the side of the dash rather than drill a huge hole in it. I ran the oil tubing through the firewall with a rubber grommet around it to keep it safe. I also installed a petcock on top of the oil filter housing just in case there is a leak or in cab oil explosion.
Looks good, Morsel. Is that pod from that pod guy that’s remanufacturing the old banks/us gear dash pod?
What is that tubing coming out of the top of the oil filter made out of? If it is copper, it will crack over time due to the shakes. Don’t mean to be negative, just a concern, bro.
If it’s plastic, there’s a ton of heat in that side of the engine.
it is a plastic line, heat rated. I think I have it a good distance from the brunt of the heat source. If not I suppose I'll find out.
The dash pod is from Glow Fit Gauges. Fits pretty well, install was easy
I’ve been doing some searching and reading about fuel heaters. I’ve been doing so as I’ve been trying to narrow down why my truck doesn’t fire up quite as quick as other first gens. It also takes a little longer still once it has been worked hard going up the 5-7% grades around here. Temperature gauge shows normal, so I don’t think that that is the issue. I am now starting to think that it is from the fuel heater sensor I think it is. I’ve noticed a slight fuel leak where the wires go in there just above the fuel filter. The truck always starts, but seems like it takes a second to crank so it can prime sometimes and gets worse the warmer it gets.
04-30-2018, 10:46 AM
