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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
You could always buy DE stainless exhaust system with stainless band clamps....Then it would all be stainless, so the dissimilar metal issue would be non issue.
That is what I will be doing on my 12V '78 Ramcharger build.
I don't use guillotine clamps on any of my exhaust systems for anything other than hangers.
The problem is I already bought the aluminized one for $300. I doubt I could recoup even $200 of that to buy the $315 stainless system. The reason it wouldn’t be much more now for the stainless is I would keep the muffler. I wish I would have known this before.
I doubt it. The other day I saw a bed that looked to be in perfect condition as far as not having any dents for $500 with a tailgate. Paint wasn’t good, but neither is the rest of my truck. Tried to find it yesterday and it was gone.
Just be patient and keep your eyes open, sign up for Craigslist alerts, etc. and you should find something.
Within a few weeks I found 3 non-running trucks to choose from priced at $500, $800 and $1000.
The $800 one wasn't bad but the $500 one was in better shape. The $1000 one was probably the cleanest, but not by enough to justify double the price.
Keep looking, you'll trip over one!
rs. I wonder if the expanded portions of the pipes that have been crushed by the guillotine clamps could be re-expanded to get rid of the small portion that has been crushed by the clamp?
Sure could. The expense of a 4 inch tail pipe expander would be cost prohibitive, as you could probably buy a whole new exhaust for its cost.
You could always buy DE stainless exhaust system with stainless band clamps....Then it would all be stainless, so the dissimilar metal issue would be non issue.
That is what I will be doing on my 12V '78 Ramcharger build.
I don't use guillotine clamps on any of my exhaust systems for anything other than hangers.
I have been running old OEM aluminized exhaust pipes and stainless band clamps on my truck since I got it. Everything is holding up well with very little corrosion.....but having said that I do remove the exhaust system every couple years and use SOS pads to clean everything up again and re-install.
I have been running old OEM aluminized exhaust pipes and stainless band clamps on my truck since I got it. Everything is holding up well with very little corrosion.....but having said that I do remove the exhaust system every couple years and use SOS pads to clean everything up again and re-install.
Do they salt the roads up there, where you live? Curious.
Yanked a Toyota out of a muddy ditch this morning on my way to work. The guy had a camo hat and steel toes on, so I figured he was a Republican and I should help.
Have a line on two RR steering set ups. Hopefully one of them pans out and cheap. Then I can start accumulating the rest of the pieces for a swap. If I get the stuff this will likely happen next winterish. Give me time to get a rebuilt box from redhead or other reputable builder.
Have a line on two RR steering set ups. Hopefully one of them pans out and cheap. Then I can start accumulating the rest of the pieces for a swap. If I get the stuff this will likely happen next winterish. Give me time to get a rebuilt box from redhead or other reputable builder.
I keep seeing “RR steering” on here, but don’t understand what it is. Can you educate me please?
I keep seeing “RR steering” on here, but don’t understand what it is. Can you educate me please?
It is Reverse rotation steering that was used on certain older dodge trucks that doesn't put the strain of steering on the steering box mount because it moves the rotation from side to side to front to back. I am not an expert on it and that is a simplified explanation, because it came from my simple mind. They were a pretty good band also ...Mark
Mark: How are you liking the weather in my old stomping grounds there in Oklahoma? Have you driven around much of the countryside? I grew up in Coffeyville. Have you been up there yet?
I received the new VR plug in the mail today so I installed it. I went for a drive but I don't know if it fixed anything yet. When I first start the truck the voltage will go up to 16-17 volts but then quickly settles down to 14.4 volts and pretty much stays there. Does this sound normal?
I dissected the old plug but I didn't see any evidence of arcing like a bad connection.
Reverse rotation steering is from W series from W300 down from 1972-1976ish
Ahh, more like what you see on big rigs. Now I finally get it. Thanks.
And thanks to Maybe, also. I bet this helps with the cracked frame at the steering box location too.
Ahh, more like what you see on big rigs. Now I finally get it. Thanks.
And thanks to Maybe, also. I bet this helps with the cracked frame at the steering box location too.
Yeah much better than the three leged plate. It changes the forces from pulling and pushing the vertical to rotational. It also improves handling.
Ahh, . I bet this helps with the cracked frame at the steering box location too.
That's specifically the reason why I chose to replace my existing steering to the older "RR" style. By eliminating that adapter plate, that cracks, and has been DISCONTINUED, I have the older / less susceptible to breakage system which should have never been changed.
Originally, it was changed to allow a better turning radius as the tire doesn't hit the draglink as you make a hard right hand turn, but then they realized that instead of having a "4x4" steering gear and a "2x4" steering gear listed and having to be produced, they could use one box for both designs. Penny pinching (IMO) was the primary factor. Terry Elders confirmed this over at cummins forum.
I would NEVER go back to the conventional / steering plate setup again.
03-13-2018, 09:15 AM
...Mark
