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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
I managed to get a couple of things accomplished over the weekend.
1] A bandaid. My clutch pedal linkage is worn enough to the point that going all the way to the floor with the pedal doesn't quite close the neutral safety switch but the majority of the time, it works. It wasn't until I attempted to start it Wednesday evening after work. The switch just wouldn't close. I crawled onto the floorboard and had a look around. Pulled the connectors apart and plugged them back in thinking, "Hell, maybe they separated just enough for the terminals to lose contact." Conveniently or by luck, the engine fired. But I didn't wanna tolerate this any longer. Nor have it leave me stranded anywhere only for it to cooperate the minute a tow truck arrives.
I separated the connectors under the dash and got a closer look at the terminals. I didn't have any female blade terminals small enough to make a jumper wire with. Instead, I made one female blade terminal work but spreading the tangs enough for them to span across both male terminals inside the shrouded connector. I made sure that the tangs weren't too far spread and that some force would be required to make good contact and not slide off from vibrations or sudden jarring while driving. I crimped the wire end of the terminal and installed it on the truck-side connector. The starter engaged with the clutch pedal only half way to the floor. Much better than trying to push the pedal through the floorboard . Now, I'm just waiting on a custom set of pedals to be made. I should have them at my door nearer to March. Done for now!
2] I have an onboard air system which at the time is solely for a set of air horn triplets. Shortly after I had finished the engine rebuild project, I had a parasitic drain on the battery. I checked all of the factory fuses, pulling each one until I could see the reduction in current draw across the negative cable terminal and negative battery post, indicating the problem circuit. None of the factory circuits were pulling a drain. I checked all fuses for any accessories that had been added. Now, I don't recall exactly how I narrowed down the drain to be in the wiring for the air compressor and I somehow found that the fuse for it was blown. I replaced it with a similarly rated fuse. I recall it being 30 amps.
The air compressor kicked on and the fuse snapped immediately and the compressor shut off. Oh boy. It wasn't a pressing concern or anything preventing the drivability (SP?) of the truck so I disconnected the power leads and told myself I'll deal with it later. 8 months later, I finally get around to diagnosis. I start at the air compressor, relay and pressure switch. Looking around for any chaffed or melted wires (hopefully not the latter). Everything checks out and nothing looks suspicious. I wondered of the possibility that the compressor's inlet air filter could be dirty enough requiring the motor to draw more power than it had in the past. I removed the air filter housing and left it off. Thinking, "if the compressor runs and the fuse stays together, maybe it is the filter." If cleaning it is the fix, that would be great.
I read through the air compressor's manual on Viair's website, paying attention to the troubleshooting guide. All items checked, all are normal. The spec's listed on the air compressor itself noted a maximum current draw of 28 amps with a given input voltage and other vitals that I forget right now. One thing that stands out is the fuse requirement in their wiring diagram which I am certain I had matched when I initially wired it all years ago. The diagram specifies a fuse rating of 30amps for the 325C and 350C model compressors and 40amps for the 400C and 450C model compressors. Guess which model I have? Not a 325- or 350C. On my life, I swear this was not on the diagram I found years back. It ran along on this 25amp fuse just fine without a single issue. Not sure how, but it did and there must be an issue elsewhere. Suddenly, it was drawing at least 30amps.
I locate a 40amp fuse then make the supply power connections at the battery. While laying under the truck at the compressor, I have my dad install the fuse so I can watch for any smoke, sparks or other signs of a problem. The compressor came to life and didn't shut off until pressure in the tank read 110psi. I touched some of the wiring and didn't feel any excessive heat anywhere even near the end of its cycle time. The pressure switch is set for 110psi on and 145psi off. I've known this and it's never operated at those setpoints since I installed the system. It usually opens around 120psi by the gauge in the tank but, it very likely could be because the pressure switch is between the compressor and the tank and may not be reading actual pressure within the tank. Although, pressure is pressure. Who knows.
While still laying under the truck, the compressor off, I'm looking and feeling around a bit more. Suddenly, it kicks on again but only for a second. I hear a couple of clicks that seem to be coming from the pressure switch. It cycles again a couple more times for only a second each time.
To make a long story just a little longer, I'm assuming the pressure switch is weakening. Although, I can't figure what would cause the overcurrent I had initially. For starters, I'm ordering a replacement switch (sealed) and will clean the air filter for good measure.
Whew! Another lengthy post.
EDIT: I now see why I used a 30amp fuse. The wiring diagram I followed upon first installation was pretty generic, even while specific to all "C" model compressor. Opening the wiring diagram for "All C-Models," it doesn't specify a fuse size for any given "C" model compressor... http://www.viaircorp.com/v/wp-conten...singlec_wd.pdf. Since the wiring diagram was vague, I referenced the amperage draw on the compressor itself, 28amps. A 30amp fuse should be fine.
But, if one navigates to the 400C product page, opens the manual in the description and finds the wiring diagram on the last page within, they'll find THAT wiring diagram specifies a fuse rating for a given compressor model... http://www.viaircorp.com/c-models/400c/
I think I’m sold on not adding water to antifreeze, but I figure maybe people will simmer down even more about it with proof through a hydrometer. Obviously some will never be satisfied, but I’d say between a -10 degree Fahrenheit test and a hydrometer testing it as well would at least be a little more evidence. I doubt my truck will ever see -10 Fahrenheit, but I would like to have it not freeze if I ever did encounter it on one of my winter mountain camping trips to go skiing or something.
I think that you are wiser than your age, except there will be no simmering down, silence maybe, but still fuming...Mark
I'm really interested in how "concentrated" the O'Reilly's antifreeze I just bought really is. Perhaps the additives lower the freezing point somewhat. If so then that's a good thing.
At any rate I'm fully committed to draining my 50/50 mix and putting in 4 gallons of "concentrated" if not 100% antifreeze just for the sake of preventing more corrosion. I think I will flush it with plenty of water and let it drain. M driveway slopes toward the street so I'll back the truck in so as to get a bit more water out of the engine.
Right now though I'm still in Tucson. Friday we went to Old Tucson which was fun then yesterday we went to the Pima Air and Space Museum and saw more old and varied aircraft than I had ever seen in one place. Today the wife is out looking at rocks at the Rock and Gem shows which are in town while I'm here surfing the internet in our room at the Starr Pass Golf Resort.
I'm really interested in how "concentrated" the O'Reilly's antifreeze I just bought really is. Perhaps the additives lower the freezing point somewhat. If so then that's a good thing.
At any rate I'm fully committed to draining my 50/50 mix and putting in 4 gallons of "concentrated" if not 100% antifreeze just for the sake of preventing more corrosion. I think I will flush it with plenty of water and let it drain. M driveway slopes toward the street so I'll back the truck in so as to get a bit more water out of the engine.
Right now though I'm still in Tucson. Friday we went to Old Tucson which was fun then yesterday we went to the Pima Air and Space Museum and saw more old and varied aircraft than I had ever seen in one place. Today the wife is out looking at rocks at the Rock and Gem shows which are in town while I'm here surfing the internet in our room at the Starr Pass Golf Resort.
The team is growing, I like that. I just came through Tuscon. Unfortunately, I am like an old stable horse, once I can smell the oats, I just beeline there. After all the construction in Mexico, Tuscon is just a wide point on the freeway. The reason that I stopped saying "100%" and started saying "I don't add water to" is because that was a common chorus in the antifreeze wars. Now that we have separated the definition of EG from the definition of antifreeze, the opposition has lost a key argument. Really, it's not like they ever had a good one anyway, take that ...Mark
I had the same issue with mine and went through the whole warranty process with Mishimoto for a replacement. I had been running it for a few years but it wasn't until early 2017 that I discovered the problem while assembling the front-end of my truck after installing the freshly rebuilt (twice) engine. The radiator core had a definite crown in it from both tanks being pulled down. Upon further inspection, both mounts looked to sit about 1/2" too high. I'm truly surprised a leak never developed because I hammered those bolts home when I first installed the radiator. Neither tank cracked and no tubes split or pulled out of the headers through the years.
So, Mishimoto wanted measurements. I supplied them along with a few additional measurements. Compared to their drawings, the mounts were incorrectly positioned. This prompted me to ask the rep, "Are your radiators not assembled in jigs and are the jigs not being checked often to ensure each final product matches your design drawings? How did your quality control overlook this discrepancy?" The response was, of course, "Yes, they are assembled in jigs but I don't know how they deviated so much and how quality control didn't catch this error." They accepted my claim and sent me a replacement but not before I paid $150 to ship it. Odd that such an item would cost so much to ship but better than not having a lifetime warranty and having to pay full price.
In the end, I sent the replacement back. Its mounts were correctly positioned and I was happy right up until I found that the filler neck they welded on was significantly smaller than the factory size and wouldn't accept the lever-vent cap that I prefer to use and that I had been using on the original Mishimoto . I couldn't help but laugh at the BS but mostly, I was a bit steamed having gone through the lengthy process just to find another flaw in their craftsmanship. I called the rep immediately and told him I was going to send the replacement back and for them to send me a return shipping label as I wasn't gonna pay to send it back.
My fix... I flipped the hold-down brackets upside-down and put a 3/8" piece of aluminum flat stock between the bolts and the core support and brackets to keep them from deforming which they did when I first tightened the bolts. Luckily, this doesn't look ugly and I can live with it if I don't end up making my own brackets to compensate for the discrepancy.
That's my story and I'm stickin' to it! I feel out of breath just reading all of that!
I wonder if it's a 1st gen vs 2nd gen thing since they both use a similar rad?
It's not going in today, or tomorrow but I bought a gear splitter today for my truck. I haven't confirmed the ratios yet but beleive it is 6% under and 18% over.
It's not going in today, or tomorrow but I bought a gear splitter today for my truck. I haven't confirmed the ratios yet but beleive it is 6% under and 18% over.
It should go pretty easy. It will mount where the carrier bearing goes and then you just need two new drive shafts. I've been thinking of different ways to shift it and right now considering either electric or cable.
I will have to source a front u-joint spline fitting but that shouldn't be too hard.
After about a week or so of driving my other vehicles around, I hop in the brick, start it up, e brake on, in neutral, and let it warm up a bit.
I move the wife's car, and hop back into the brick, heading to the post office. I throw it into D from neutral, and slowly I cruise out my driveway, into the street in front of my house. Get across the street, and the truck suddenly has no power. I had not yet touched the pedal, as my driveway pitches to the street, and kids could be passing by. I realize that I have no transmission. Its gone !!
Hop out of the truck, popped the hood, and trans fluid looks good, just a pint or so low. Walk back the house, get a funnel and fluid, and fill it up a bit. Back to the cab, and shifting from N to D or anywhere else but park does nothing. I'm freaking about now, and my wife comes out to see what's happening. I tell her my trans is shot, and the pump failed, I'll need her to help me tow it back onto my property to get the plow off, and call a tow company, as I'm gonna need a trans rebuild.
She's freaked out right about now, and I get our suv over, hook up a tow rope, and with her help, get it back up on my property. I went to shift it into park (which I had not done yet this am) and it makes a horrible clicking noise from the trans. I turn the truck off, shove it in park, look over at my 4x4 shifter, and yank it back into 4x4 mode. Start the truck, put the truck in reverse, and back up the rest of the way in my driveway. Put it in drive, and it shifts perfectly into gear.
Hit the e brake, hop out of the truck and start giggling as I walk over to my wife sitting in the SUV. She rolls down the window and asks ." what happened? "
I tell her, " you married an idiot, and that pretty much sums it up"
She hopped out of the SUV, and proceeded to tell at me, telling me what an applehead I am, and said how now shed late for work and I'm such a freaking idiot, and a bunch of other words Lary won't let me say.
Ugh. What a dumb ***!
After reading me the riot act for a half hour, I called her a nasty old lady, and she went off to work.
02-04-2018, 01:43 PM
. Now, I'm just waiting on a custom set of pedals to be made. I should have them at my door nearer to March. Done for now!
. I couldn't help but laugh at the BS but mostly, I was a bit steamed having gone through the lengthy process just to find another flaw in their craftsmanship. I called the rep immediately and told him I was going to send the replacement back and for them to send me a return shipping label as I wasn't gonna pay to send it back.
