JPSW250

Yea he is a 1st gen freak like me!! He also wanted
to see the DennyT AFC delete that i got..
I also bought lots of beer too!!!!!!

oliver foster

My buddies is a 1st gen 12v crew cab freak too.
He drives a sweet '75 crew with a '89 12V Getrag 4x4 with a Gear Vendors over-drive unit everyday for work.
Do to it begin a work truck, he likes to keep the motor and such more stock than I do.
So when he visits, he always loves to work on my more custom stuff.
Things like my Rag/NV-4500 swap, lift kits/air bags, Fuel pins /366 Springs/pump tuning, 2nd gen intercooler swap and the like that he doesn't get to see everyday in field repair.

I buy all the food and beer when he is here and send him home with some parts he needs for his 1st gen trucks.

It is a great time out in the shop, I get a lot of stuff done on my trucks in a short time and we both get to share info on these trucks as we work.

mknittle

I had some more fun making parts.

j_martin

Fixed the leaky roof. RV sealing tape. Worth more than the metal it's on.

j_martin

On the camper towing truck, replaced the "pendulum and guess" brake controller with a past era Kelsey hydraulic actuated one. (81740B) Mounted it so it's actually usable from a seated position.

mknittle

I haven't seen one of those in a long time.

mknittle

It's still dark out there.

j_martin

Bought 3 of them, a plain, A, and B model on EvilBay a year ago. They're getting pretty proud of them since MaxBrake et al took a dive.

I'll have to put a series resistor system in with it to compensate for different trailers. I'll use a .25 ohm and a .5 ohm, with bypass toggle switches. The combination will give me 4 max force settings with the switches.

Towed the boat with it Saturday. Smooth braking fer sure. Hardly notice the trailer is there.

Alec

You didn't buy the vintage appropriate compensating resistor (with the wing-nut & sliding clamp)?

I can't believe folks use anything else, to be honest. (I guess they use too much volume for modern ABS systems, but even so)

I have mine mounted vertically in the dash, next to the radio, but your install looks a little cleaner & more normal. Well worth the effort!

j_martin

I usually use metal cased wire wound resistors like this image. If I use a 0.25 ohm and a 0.5 ohm resistor, and put a toggle switch across each one, I can select 0.25, 0.5, 0.75 or 0.0 ohm with the flick of a couple of switches. Bolted to an aluminum back plate, they get rid of the heat very well. Not a hazard in flammable fumes.

I hope to get an overhead console installed with the extra switches I need. When I'm seated for normal operation, reaching something low on the dash puts me partially out of control, and control is important when I'm pulling a double.

Alec

Just in case it wasn't clear -- I can't believe anybody uses anything other than the hydraulically actuated brake controllers.

I was kidding about the old balancing resistors: I just used to see them and the Kelsey controllers together all the time . . .

Not sure that is how the post read, though.

Alec

mknittle

Nothing yet it's dark out.

aicomp

Yesterday, Adjusted doors, pot lizard skin on floors, installed windows in doors.
Today, I will put in redone headliner and interior trim.
It's coming along.

j_martin

Post was a bit ambiguous, requiring effort to figure out, which is where I failed.

When the automakers came out with multitudinous Mickey Mouse ABS brake systems, making interface both difficult and risky (liability), Kelsey and others went to the pendulum accelerometer and logic for their controllers. Anybody that has experienced hydraulic control wouldn't put up with the unpredictability of them. The MaxBrake system had a zero displacement sensor (limit theory here) and the logic could ignore the modulations produced by the ABS system. It was high priced, and before MaxBrake went down, I noticed the big trailer outfits quit handling them. I suspect Kelsey suggested that if they wanted good pricing, they had better be faithful. Then the automakers began to build the (probably stolen) MaxBrake type logic into their ABS systems, requiring only an output or PWM to drive a trailer.

If I could find an inexpensive hydraulic sensor, I'd be tempted to try to address the task with an Arduino imbedded system. If that proved inadequate, I could transfer the logic to a high performance PIC with machine code.

Meanwhile, for my Gen 1, Mickey Mouse has been fired, and the old reliable coffee warmer analog trailer brake system has been installed.

BILTIT

So what is the advantage of the hydraulic sensing type? more linear? I have one on my truck but i have issues with my 7pin connector so my trailer brakes don;t work half the time lol.

I really need to fix that 7 pin, trailer lights are not working great either.

Can be seen in this pic, different than yours but still has a hydraulic line hooked up to the master.