What did you do to your Gen 1 today?
#4156
Registered User
For that Ford, I would invest in a decent code reader, then get a Chilton or Haynes manual to assist in fixing. YouTube it if you still need further assistance after the Chilton manual and code reader.
As an example- we bought my son a decent, inexpensive car for his last two years in high school in 2013. It was a 1998 Lexus ES300. We were the second owners. It had 189,000. It leaked oil, needed spark plugs changed, all that stuff. Mechanically, it needed some work, but the interior was immaculate.
One day my son is ahead of me in that Lexus and I'm in my Dodge following, and he runs thru a red light! He immediately called me in a panic to say he had no brakes! When we got home, I plugged in that code reader and with the help of the Chilton manual, it listed a fault in some solenoid I knew nothing about. I didn't know where it was in the engine bay, nothing.
The Chilton manual explained briefly how to check the solenoid for fault, along with pics, but a YouTube video showed exactly where it was in the engine bay. While watching the video, the mechanic on there also said to check on two of these filter screen deals, inside two ports covered by a galley plug. Remove the galley plugs, and clean out the screen filters inside these ports. Upon further reading of the Chilton manual, it said if the screens have debris or get plugged, it may cause a brake failure. So, I replaced the solenoid, and cleaned out those filters just for reassurance.
So, the code reader, the book, and some YouTube helped me fix a problem on a car that I had no clue on how to work on.
As an example- we bought my son a decent, inexpensive car for his last two years in high school in 2013. It was a 1998 Lexus ES300. We were the second owners. It had 189,000. It leaked oil, needed spark plugs changed, all that stuff. Mechanically, it needed some work, but the interior was immaculate.
One day my son is ahead of me in that Lexus and I'm in my Dodge following, and he runs thru a red light! He immediately called me in a panic to say he had no brakes! When we got home, I plugged in that code reader and with the help of the Chilton manual, it listed a fault in some solenoid I knew nothing about. I didn't know where it was in the engine bay, nothing.
The Chilton manual explained briefly how to check the solenoid for fault, along with pics, but a YouTube video showed exactly where it was in the engine bay. While watching the video, the mechanic on there also said to check on two of these filter screen deals, inside two ports covered by a galley plug. Remove the galley plugs, and clean out the screen filters inside these ports. Upon further reading of the Chilton manual, it said if the screens have debris or get plugged, it may cause a brake failure. So, I replaced the solenoid, and cleaned out those filters just for reassurance.
So, the code reader, the book, and some YouTube helped me fix a problem on a car that I had no clue on how to work on.
#4157
Registered User
The fact that an electrical problem can cause the brakes to fail doesn't inspire a great deal of confidence. Brakes are an extremely critical system that needs to be a simple as possible. The dual redundancy hydraulic system with a vacuum booster is about a simple as you can get. If either the front or rear wheel systems fails the brake still works. If the vacuum booster fails the brakes still work. If the entire hydraulic system fails the parking brake still works.
Bringing electronics into the picture is asking for trouble. System reliability is inversely proportional to system complexity.
Edwin
Bringing electronics into the picture is asking for trouble. System reliability is inversely proportional to system complexity.
Edwin
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mknittle (06-30-2017)
#4158
Registered User
Fixed my floppy mirrors again.
I got tired of running around the truck to adjust the right side mirror so I decided to use the plastic from a milk jug to fix them. The right side need the full treatment with completely replaceing the old plastic part. The left side just required a shim piece to tighten it up. Now I can slam the doors without moving the mirrors. Nice!
#4159
Registered User
Pulled the fenders to check for cowl cracks, None. Not sure why I am getting water on the P/s floor when water is dumped down the cowl. Leaks at the heaterbox where it meets the kick panel somewhere
#4160
Registered User
There should be a drain out the bottom of the heater box for AC condensate and rain water. Leaves and such in the heater box can plug the drain.
#4161
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
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mknittle (07-03-2017)
#4162
Registered User
I have had old Chevys do that and had to use a welding rod to get the crap out ov the smallish drain hole.
#4163
Registered User
Piston lift pump spring info
If not I will PM you Edwin.....I appreciate your willingness to doing that for me!
#4164
Registered User
Could also be the seal around the HVAC resistor in the cowl. If you pull the glove box out you can see it screwed into the cowl.....perhaps the seal is gone on that and it's leaking in that way?
#4165
Registered User
It looks intact but the only way to know for sure is pulling the whole **** thing out.
#4167
Registered User
While changing my oil today I decided to fix the floppy side mirrors that won't hold their position. Followed the advice in the sticky but instead of using pieces from milk jugs I cut out pieces of the oil jug (recycling at its finest 👍and shimmed them and clamped them back down. Very easy fix and they definitely won't be pushed in while running 65 down the highway
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mknittle (07-03-2017)
#4169
Administrator
My passenger side mirror started moving on me because people keep hitting it in parking lots, I will come out and find someone had bumped into it again and again, I also find butt marks across my dually fenders all the time.
I purposely park away from everyone or back into parking spots but when I come out I'll find someone parked next to me.
I opened the cover and tried to tighten the clamping bolts when one of them started to strip,
So I re-tapped the existing M6-1.0 thread out to 1/4-20 and Installed stainless steel socket head bolts also flat and split washers.
Between the clamp and the mirror shaft I used a section of 1/16" neoprene rubber as the friction material tightening the bolts enough for a tight but still movable fit.
I also have a video camera Installed under the passenger side mirror to cover my blind side and connected to my onboard video system.
Jim
I purposely park away from everyone or back into parking spots but when I come out I'll find someone parked next to me.
I opened the cover and tried to tighten the clamping bolts when one of them started to strip,
So I re-tapped the existing M6-1.0 thread out to 1/4-20 and Installed stainless steel socket head bolts also flat and split washers.
Between the clamp and the mirror shaft I used a section of 1/16" neoprene rubber as the friction material tightening the bolts enough for a tight but still movable fit.
I also have a video camera Installed under the passenger side mirror to cover my blind side and connected to my onboard video system.
Jim
Last edited by Jim Lane; 07-03-2017 at 05:50 PM. Reason: updated information :)
The following 2 users liked this post by Jim Lane:
edwinsmith (07-03-2017),
mknittle (07-03-2017)
#4170
Registered User
My passenger side mirror started moving on me because people keep hitting it in parking lots, I will come out and find someone had bumped into it again and again, I also find butt marks across my dually fenders all the time.
I purposely park away from everyone or back into parking spots but when I come out I'll find someone parked next to me.
I opened the cover and tried to tighten the clamping bolts when one of them started to strip,
So I re-tapped the bracket out to 1/4-20 and Installed stainless steel socket head bolts also flat and split washers.
Between the clamp and the mirror shaft I used a section of 1/16" neoprene rubber as the friction material tightening the bolts enough for a tight but still movable fit.
I also have a video camera Installed under the passenger side mirror to cover my blind side and connected to my onboard video system.
Jim
I purposely park away from everyone or back into parking spots but when I come out I'll find someone parked next to me.
I opened the cover and tried to tighten the clamping bolts when one of them started to strip,
So I re-tapped the bracket out to 1/4-20 and Installed stainless steel socket head bolts also flat and split washers.
Between the clamp and the mirror shaft I used a section of 1/16" neoprene rubber as the friction material tightening the bolts enough for a tight but still movable fit.
I also have a video camera Installed under the passenger side mirror to cover my blind side and connected to my onboard video system.
Jim