bigragu

Can't seem to get that brake light to turn off since the HB conversion. I really thought the adjustable proportioning valve would balance things out, and cause that light to go off. I know I have no air in the lines, as once I learned of the infamous peanut jar bleed, all I saw was clear fluid the entire length of the roller coaster tubing. Mark, TCows, and others that converted to HB, I believe you all have kept the factory combination valve with the brake switch. I was told that that combo valve was not designed for HB, and my HB set up may be over pressurizing the system, causing the light to come on. I wonder why your's hasn't come on?
I did a check, to see if the sliding meter was centered, with the use of a lighted test probe, and mine checks out as centered. Hmmmm....???

edwinsmith

Have you unplugged the RWAL module behind the glovebox to see if that's causing the light to come on? If the RWAL system is unhappy it will light the Brake light as well as the balance sensor below the MC.

Edwin

KRB

I usually get around 12mpg when loaded no matter what, and whether pulling or hauling.

All these roads were two lane highways so speed was between 45 & 65mph depending and usually around 55-60. Lots of stop & go in the 8-9 towns we pass through. Weather was in the 70's.

My pyro never got much over 900* and fuel pressure stayed around 7-8psi. My tranny however has always run warm and with the sensor in the line at the OD cutoff port I saw 190-120*. Pulling a load of cattle (4-5 tons) it will hit 225* pretty easy on some hills. It has run this way for years and the fluid still looks good so I've quit worrying and just make sure I go out of OD on long steep pulls.

When you rebuilt your tranny did you go back stock or make some upgrades?

mknittle

Maybe the switch is bad or the plunger stuck.

1STGENFARMBOY

KRB, basicly just a heavy duty kit with kit in the VB and a Goerend one steep lower converter, I have a derail HD cooler with fan on a toggle, I turn it on when I hook up a trailer.

As of now I am happy with it, although a little dissapointed in I thought my MPG would go up a couple at least, but I really can't tell it has at all, we will see how long it lasts.

bigragu

Doing a lot of research, and what I've learned is, if the plunger inside the combo valve is stuck or better said, hugging one side, that would also mean during the bleed process whichever side is closed off, the fluid would trickle out vs outright shoot out of a cracked bleeder screw when the pedal gets depressed. All four bleeders flowed out smoothly, so I believe I am centered.

when I did a search on the net specifically for this problem, it seems the common factors with folks with this same problem were:
1. Disc fronts, drum rears
2. Didn't matter if it was factory stock replacement or a conversion, it was HB related
3. No one ever piped in in the end to say they found out what was causing it, and got it fixed, LOL

jtamulonis

the plunger CAN NOT restrict flow to the front or rear. the easy way to tell if the light on is caused by the switch, just un plug the wire on the switch. if the light goes out, then learn how to re-center the switch. if the light stays on with the wire disconnected, check the parking brake switch. to re-center the switch, go to the opposite end of the truck that you last bled. turn on the ignition key, have a helper open the bleeder screw, THEN SLOWLY push the brake pedal down. when the light goes out, STOP pushing the pedal. hold the pedal still and have your helper close the bleeder screw. if the light flashes off then on, go to the other end of the truck and repeat the procedure. SOME pressure differential switches are spring loaded and automatically re- center. the rest have to be manually re-set. the problem is in the bleeding procedure not the hydro-boost it self.

thrashingcows

I agree with T-man....removing the axles is the best way I have found to adjusting the rear brakes. Done it with the axles in, but it's so much more work. Quicker to remove the axles I have found.

KRB

I had the Derale but it corroded out. When I removed it I just connected the hydraulic hoses together, now that is leaking...

I'd like a Goerend, what % stall is yours?

bigragu

Jtamulonis, I'm going to do exactly as you described the procedure. Wish me luck. I have one question, though, as I sort of tried this method yesterday, based on Internet search instructions. What happens,me hen SLOWLY pUshing the pedal down, the first time, and you bottom out and the light never goes off? Keep at it till it does? So, I need to rig my fluid catch container as I would in bleeding, so I don't draw in air on the upstroke then for sure, in case I have to depress multiple times?

Thanks, again. Like I mentioned in my PM to you, your description has been the most detailed yet

bigragu

Jtamulonis- just finished applying your instructions outlined to get the brake light to shut off....SUCCESS!! Brkake light is off! Things I want to add, as I know someday someone will read up on this doing a search on a brake light being always on:
1. Initially, I tested the switch using a lighted test probe, connected to battery positive then touch the probe into the switch(not the harness, but the switch at the combination valve). If the light on the probe remained unlit, the switch was centered. If it lit up, you have to do what Jtamulonis just instructed. But, check it out, my test probe did not light up, telling me I was good, but the brake light was still on. So, that tells me not to just rely on the test probe method, but to still proceed to depressing the pedal with bleeder opened and waiting for the light to shut off. If, and this is another addition to Jtamulonis instructions, if the light does not turn off and you have fully depressed the brake pedal all the way, do not raise the pedal. Instead, close that bleeder, release the pedal, and go to the opposite end of the truck and repeat the process.
2. You must go so very slow in depressing the pedal, cause you want to catch that valve exactly when it centers. I actually heard a "click" sound when the light went off.

Now off I go, to do some brake pedal slamming at various speeds, to get this prop valve adjusted.

maybe368

I like the procedure for centering the valve, very thorough. I have gone to gravity bleeding the brakes, it takes longer and, I believe that if bleeding were done by gravity that the valve would remain centered. It takes longer, it took 10 minutes for fluid to appear in a completely empty line. It was then about another 5 or 10 minutes for all of the air to go, tighten 'er up and you're done (after you've done all 4 of course ). I had always thought that these brakes could not be gravity bled because of the valve, but it sure works well...Mark

maybe368

What did I do to the old girl today? Drove her down to Mexico for about the fiftieth time, not a peep out of her. I bought a 2017 4Runner with my VW money and she is sitting in the carport while the old girl is doing what she does, safely, consistently and in every good way getting me down here. The only reason I bought the Toyota is that it is perfect for the hound, he has got all the room he needs. He is after all the closest thing to a wife that I have. so I have to keep him happy ...Mark

edwinsmith

I don't think I want to hear any more about THAT relationship.

bigragu

Yes, I have unplugged that ABS module behind the glovebox, two years ago when I bypassed the RWAL valve