bigragu

Adjustable prop valve all tied in. The joy of one person bleeding comes next.

bigragu

Tied all lines right at the departure out of the junction block, to the valve, then back down and unioned at the factory line heading to the rears.
Think I've got the brake line bending down, Mr. Knittle.
Run, Rise, gives the Diagonal length, then the degree of offset. Cake, baby!

Or, A squared + B squared = C squared. Use trig to get offset degree.

mknittle

Or my wife's version: We = U - I.

Looks good.

bigragu

Thanks, Mark. I still haven't figured out what to dial that **** to when bleeding. Fully open, or fully shut? Halfway? That's actually a popular question on the net regarding P-Valves.

mknittle

Open it up until it is bled. Otherwise it will be hard to bleed the rear.

thrashingcows

I have an adjustable one on my wagon, and I turned it all the way one direct, then counted the turns to the other side, then started in the middle when adjusting.

I did small increments when braking on a gravel lot, I wanted the rears to lock up just a tad before the fronts. So many up to speed, then locking brakes up later I got it dialed in.

NJTman

The hovercraft landed, and heading out on its maiden voyage today...

mknittle

That's how I did my jeep. worked great.

bigragu

Just curious, Mark and TCows, once your all adjusted, have you ever had to readjust the valve for less pressure in different weather conditions, like snow, mud or rain? Gravels one thing, but you add water to the mix, whole different ball game, I'm assuming?

Not knowing any better as this is my first prop valve install, I'm foreseeing at least two settings for dry and wet conditions? I don't tow, and I know if I did that would also be another setting.

mknittle

I didn't have to change mine. I scribed a line on mine once I had it set where it worked best. so if I wanted to move it I could find where i started if i wanted to go back.

bigragu

Thanks, Mark. I plan on doing the same

1STGENFARMBOY

that is exactly the mpg I got last week pulling my 25ft 7k travel trailer with my 500lb motorcycle in the bed, to and back from North Carolina, if I kept my speed to around 65, my mpg went down to 10ish at 70+mph, some of the hills were a good pull on the old girl.

normal road.

65mph @ 2,000 rpm @ 11lb boost @ 875*EGT in OD @ 75* ambient temp

on very steep long hills.

65mph @ 2,500 rpm @ 28lb boost @ 1,150*EGT in 3rd @ 75* ambient temp

it would do it fine in OD but I just don't want to push my new trans that much, my trans temp stayed around 170* but 1 time I did see 195* sensor in the pan.

NJTman

These trucks were designed to work hard, and not make a peep. 24 years old and still a fine example of what good, practical engineering is all about.

Today I Hauled 1800 lbs of scrap to the recycler, and it was if nothing was attached to the truck

NJTman

Saw this beauty today. Love those old body styled trucks. Drove a 1979 for over a decade, and I still miss it. Is drop a 5.9 in it if I ever found,a new ride..

For all you Ferd fans out there

bigragu

Today, I finalized the install of the prop valve by bleeding the brakes- 3 whole cycles!! My prop valve kept leaking at one of the 1/8" NPT connection, and every time I unhooked the prop valve, it was starting all over with the bleed process. 2 1/2 whole quarts of brake fluid. Oh, well, I can at least say my entire system has new fluid, LOL.

I proceeded to adjust the rear drums, and the E- brake cable. Man, I don't know how you guys do it effortlessly. Spin the rear wheels, feel for slight drag, then back off the adjusters. I can't seem to " feel " the slight drag, plus if one wheel is tighter than the other, it just complicates things. Oh, well, hopefully I don't have it too tight against the drums. The proper and best way, was at the advice of TMan, where he actually took the axle out, then one wheel can be spun at a time, and the feel of drag is easier. But, I did not feel like opening up that axle and wearing gear lube today.