thrashingcows

Pics from yesterday should be working?

thrashingcows

I just used an old brake light switch from a late 60's/ early 70's mopar. Then wired it up to the neutral ground wire. Had to backyard engineer using left over and questionable parts...but it has been working every day I get in and push the clutch pedal down.

I too had a similar situation before I did the 4wd conversion...no clutch safety switch with the old 89 wiring. The whole family and I had gone out for diner, and when we got back in the truck I hit the key without pushing in the clutch.....truck fired right away and jumped into the planter I was parked in front of....almost punched into a light pole in there as well....

I managed to keep my wits and jumped on the brakes, and punched in the clutch at the same time.

Jim Lane

It is surprising how fast you can move thanks to Fight or Flight, I had both of my rear wheels off so I could replace my brakes and had the frame resting on the jack stands, forgot to chock the front wheels but I always shake the truck to make sure it is stable, looked good so I slid under the back and suddenly noticed the truck was moving, I flew out from under the truck, opened the door and stepped on the service brake just as the truck came off the jack stands and hit the ground, luckily I have a habit of placing the wheels under the frame just in case.

I had used the jack stands behind the rear axle under where the class IV received is, my driveway heads downhill where the front tires were, the truck just slid off the jack stands.

Being in my driveway it was captured by no less than 4 video cameras and was being displayed in the house on 4 monitors,

Funny thing, nobody saw a thing.

In the 70's when I was a transit mechanic I was on a road call for a coach with locked brakes, usually caused from a high cam, so I pulled up behind with my tow truck I stopped a few feet behind so I could open the back and disable the front controls the I went under to unlock them so I could drag it home.

If you have ever worked on air brakes to release them you stick a caging bolt in to the chamber and crank it backwards, this uncages a powerful spring, then with a sledge hammer you whack the slack adjuster and flip the cam, with a loud snap the brakes are released so now the coach is rolling backwards into my towtruck.
Being 40' long I had plenty of time to roll out onto the street side just as it was stopped by my tow truck like I had planned, I connected the drawbar and towed it back to the shop to change my coveralls.
Jim

NJTman

Yup..................

j.fonder

did a pseudo-oil change today. been reading a lot on people running this T6 for a long time, so i decided to go another 5,000 miles on my Rotella T6 synthetic. I changed the filter at 5K, now again at 12K(i know, i know, i was lazy). Will do a full one when it hits 17K.

at 5k/15k intervals, i was curious of the savings of synthetic over conventional

as priced at wal mart, cheapest place i could find.

12 QTS rotella conventional - $40
fleet guard oil filter - $8
total cost - $48
5000 mile intervals x 3 = $144 for 15,000 miles

16 QTS rotella T6 synthetic - $86
Fleet guard filter changed at 5k intervals w/ extra QT of oil - $24
total cost = $110 for 15,000 miles

so you save ~$34 over the course of 15,000 miles with synthetic. also, save a little bit of time having to only change the filter.

NJTman

And in theory, the parts move together a little better with less heat buildup in the oil...


BTW..

For fun, cut the casing of the oil filter off of the media. See what's in there.

N. Besonderes

Had a productive day:
Changed fuel filter, installed Cummins High Mileage Club badge, cleaned grid heater relay terminals, and hooked up a fuse/relay box out of a Jeep Cherokee.
I went 8,700 miles on this Wix filter. Is that too much? I cut it open and didn't see anything trapped in the filter media. FSM just says change when needed. Should I just change it every 5,000 miles with the oil or is that too often?

-Niemand Besonderes

mknittle

The fuse box looks interesting. Looks like the mount fits really nice.

thrashingcows

I agree...what year did you grab it from?

N. Besonderes

I had to cut the mount up and weld the foot on so it would work where I wanted it. The PDC originally lived on the right side fender well of the Jeep I pulled it off of.
I think it was a late '90s junk yard Cherokee.

mknittle

I think around early to mid 1990s.

mknittle

that's pretty easyIf the wires were in a split loom it would look stock.

N. Besonderes

Once I finish wiring and tidying everything up I will definitely zip everything tight and cover it back up with split loom.
Shouldn't take me more than three or four years.

mknittle

I am the same way

j.fonder

3" tubes, 24v intake, and power stroke intercooler. Have had these in my garage for about a year now, finally got it in me to do the install. I had the 3" pipes bent at an exhaust shop. I told them I wanted a 2' piece with a 45 in the middle and another 2' piece with an offset of 20* bends as close together as possible in the middle. Once cut to length they worked perfect! Intercooler is mounted with 3/8" all thread. Had to cut the stock IC lower mounts off of the core support. Drilled through the lower mounts on the PS IC for the all thread. Then just used flat piece of plate and 3/8 hardware to mount the condenser to the front of the IC. Also, just had to shave the bottom of the hood latch about 3/4" and then do some light "forming" of the top of the IC to make it fit.

Picture **** time
Here you see the benefit of the 24v intake. Also makes it much easier to make new piping fit.


Upper mounts




I'm painting all the "dress up" stuff hemi orange as I go





Drove about 250 miles so far. EGTs seem to be down about 100* cruising on the highway. turbo sounds like it's breathing a little better, whooooooosh!