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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
I fired it up and drove off into the slop storm and salt to take mama to the cardiologist.
The Honda I bought so I could park Grey for the winter failed to proceed, or even crank. Shoveled the snow off'n the first gen, twisted her tail, and away we went. I have to admit it was interesting wiggling the 1 ton into a rice burner parking spot at the clinic.
Now I have to dig into the starting circuit intricacies of a 4th gen Honda Accord.
Luckily you have a great grasp on electric trouble shooting.
Me…not so much.
Luckily you have a great grasp on electric trouble shooting.
Me…not so much.
As it turns out, it's not very complicated, but I have to get under a car that's completely dead and has about 6" of clearance, sitting on fresh snow with a sub zero cold snap rolling in on it. The problem is most likely the starter or a McGiver'd wire near it.
I think the wallet is going to have to handle this one. If I can't get it done by Tuesday, I'll have to borrow a car to get DW to a cardioversion attempt.
So if you went with an adjustable boost elbow off the engine, 1/4" lines to the AFC housing retapped to 1/4 push lock fitting, would you be able to bottom out the starwheel and just use the adjustable elbow or would you still need to set the starwheel?
. Sorry, Vader, missed your inquiry here.
To be honest, I never thought about bottoming out the starwheel and using a boost elbow to fine tune the adjustments of the air delivery, thus eliminating even ever opening that AFC up again! Probably the reason why is because to me, that HD stout spring is one to reckon with, and even with so much air pushing downwards on it it kind of evens things out. I'm thinking...could be wrong, but makes sense.
Now if one were using a stock AFC spring, for sure a boost elbow adjustment type of deal would be needed. Probably why Wannadiesel back in the day came up with that valet switch that I described earlier. Back then, the stiffest spring was one off of an 89, I believe. That HD spring, man, still blows me away on how tuff that thing is to compress.
Vader, let me know what you come up with on that adjustable fitting. Got me curious now. When you do get it all set up, you ought to do tests using the stock spring and your HD spring, doing minute adjustments to that adjustable fitting and checking your boost readings. Post up the results
I definately will. I have taken my top off 3 times since injector swap to tune starwheel. Every time my spring is collapsed on itself so to speak. Don't know if i have the wheel up to much causing to much compression and deforming the spring or what. I just stretch it out until it's back to normal and reinstall. In my mind the adjustable elbow should work well
I definately will. I have taken my top off 3 times since injector swap to tune starwheel. Every time my spring is collapsed on itself so to speak. Don't know if i have the wheel up to much causing to much compression and deforming the spring or what. I just stretch it out until it's back to normal and reinstall. In my mind the adjustable elbow should work well
. Had that happen a couple of times, that spring collapse. Thought it was the negative part of that HD spring, until Wannadiesel had commented on an old, old post about spring collapse. It happens to stock springs as well. He had a more dieseltific type of word for it, when a spring collapses onto itself and hooks onto itself, thereby remaining compressed, diaphragm down, and power pin down. I was wondering why my at stop idle would change drastically from one week to the next. Come to find out the spring collapsed and hooked on itself, and every time it did that I had my starwheel setting up high to almost full stop. So 3 turns downward and a coating of Syl Glyde on the spring and all is good
I fired it up and drove off into the slop storm and salt to take mama to the cardiologist.
The Honda I bought so I could park Grey for the winter failed to proceed, or even crank. Shoveled the snow off'n the first gen, twisted her tail, and away we went. I have to admit it was interesting wiggling the 1 ton into a rice burner parking spot at the clinic.
Now I have to dig into the starting circuit intricacies of a 4th gen Honda Accord.
I think those parking spaces are getting smaller all the time. It has to be a government plot to force us into little cars. Next thing you know they will be be messing with the the clothes sizing standard to make us think we need to lose weight.
I think those parking spaces are getting smaller all the time. It has to be a government plot to force us into little cars. Next thing you know they will be be messing with the the clothes sizing standard to make us think we need to lose weight.
When I first got the truck, I "touched" a rice burner trying to get into one of those little slots. Marred the wax on a fiber glass hip fender. Took a quarter panel off the rice burner.
When I first got the truck, I "touched" a rice burner trying to get into one of those little slots. Marred the wax on a fiber glass hip fender. Took a quarter panel off the rice burner.
My favorite vehicle for around town is my Slightly() modified 1942 ****** Jeep. it's narrow, turns sharp and has no doors.
I replaced the headlight switch pigtail today. The connector for the tail lights would not stay in contact with the terminal on the switch due to the melted plastic. Used the "Cool Seal" crimp connectors, so hopefully they will do the job until I replace the cab. Headlight relay also installed.
My redhead showed up today, so I wheeled the welder out, threw a few beads across the frame, then put the box up. Just bleeding the air out of it, the steering felt so much tighter than the old wore out original.
Today, I changed out my shifter linkage bushings the second time since I did my trans flex plate R&R. I originally purchased 4 new bushings for the shifter rods, and two new main shaft bushings as well.
Main shaft bushings, well lets just say that I was the one who got the shaft. They cost me $30 each and then I found out the aftermarket has them for about $5 each. Oh well..
The rod bushings well that didn't go so well the first time. I guess when you buy them from dodge, they really are new "OLD" stock. When i assembled them (off the truck) on the zbar, two of them broke apart as soon as I popped the rod through them. They literally sheared in half and both pieces fell out of the z bar. I even greased them up before installation took place.
So I went the local parts house and bought a universal set that had two of the correct size, and 4 of the wrong size. I put the truck together, and then I ordered these:
I ordered 8 of them..... just in case.... even though you only need 4. So they went together fine, although you really need to pull that zbar off the truck to install them, as they are TIGHT....
Fun fun fun.... shifts nice now. No slop...
Tomorrow I'll check the TY cable adjustment again.... just to be sure.
01-08-2016, 05:35 PM
) modified 1942 ****** Jeep. it's narrow, turns sharp and has no doors.
