What did you do to your Gen 1 today?
#1501
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Posts: 6,789
Received 1,647 Likes
on
1,120 Posts
This is the main reason, I take lots of photos, as I can't remember squat anymore. At least with the photos, I can review, and go ...
Oh yeah.... that's how it goes ...
lol.
#1502
MC to make room for the new shoes and drums? Just wondering, as this was the 1st attempt for me installing NEW shoes and drums. If this was a bone head wonder on my part, be kind LOL! Sure thought it was going to be a piece of cake remove and replace, and drive back to the Bay Area stylin' with squeak free brakes! Oh, and NJT, thanks for taking the time on a Sunday to troubleshoot this with me. I did take pics of the shoes and such of the 6 month old set up at 3 angles, to assist with the orientation of springs and cables of the new. Saw the glazing on both the drums and shoes while I looked closely. Tried to send you those pics this am, as this was exactly how I put in the new, but my phone kept telling me there was trouble sending the pics. Anyways, let me know if my compressing of the wheel cylinders is legit. Last thing, that Snap On tool I bought awhile back, the one made to remove and replace those hold down springs, was a treat to use. Man, that tool is definitely a must have when dealing with those buggers.
#1503
Registered User
Well, maybe it doesn't count as they are not yet on the truck, but I picked up four forged aluminum Rickson 19.5 wheels over the weekend. I have been wanting a set of these for years & years!
Found them in the DTR classifieds, no less.
Found them in the DTR classifieds, no less.
#1504
Registered User
#1505
Registered User
Yeah, T Man was all over that with his suggestions. Appreciate the advice, as I am stumped. So, for sure when I get back home this next weekend I'll reopen up the drums. So, I'll be into it another set of seals. Been stewin on this as crap like this bugs me, and I hate it when my favorite rig is down. But, is it possible at all, that maybe I needed to put some C-grips on the wheel cylinder stems and precompress them inward, maybe even possibly suck out a bit of brake fluid from the
MC to make room for the new shoes and drums? Just wondering, as this was the 1st attempt for me installing NEW shoes and drums. If this was a bone head wonder on my part, be kind LOL! Sure thought it was going to be a piece of cake remove and replace, and drive back to the Bay Area stylin' with squeak free brakes! Oh, and NJT, thanks for taking the time on a Sunday to troubleshoot this with me. I did take pics of the shoes and such of the 6 month old set up at 3 angles, to assist with the orientation of springs and cables of the new. Saw the glazing on both the drums and shoes while I looked closely. Tried to send you those pics this am, as this was exactly how I put in the new, but my phone kept telling me there was trouble sending the pics. Anyways, let me know if my compressing of the wheel cylinders is legit. Last thing, that Snap On tool I bought awhile back, the one made to remove and replace those hold down springs, was a treat to use. Man, that tool is definitely a must have when dealing with those buggers.
MC to make room for the new shoes and drums? Just wondering, as this was the 1st attempt for me installing NEW shoes and drums. If this was a bone head wonder on my part, be kind LOL! Sure thought it was going to be a piece of cake remove and replace, and drive back to the Bay Area stylin' with squeak free brakes! Oh, and NJT, thanks for taking the time on a Sunday to troubleshoot this with me. I did take pics of the shoes and such of the 6 month old set up at 3 angles, to assist with the orientation of springs and cables of the new. Saw the glazing on both the drums and shoes while I looked closely. Tried to send you those pics this am, as this was exactly how I put in the new, but my phone kept telling me there was trouble sending the pics. Anyways, let me know if my compressing of the wheel cylinders is legit. Last thing, that Snap On tool I bought awhile back, the one made to remove and replace those hold down springs, was a treat to use. Man, that tool is definitely a must have when dealing with those buggers.
My bet is on the E-brake lever not releasing properly.
#1506
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Posts: 6,789
Received 1,647 Likes
on
1,120 Posts
#1507
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Posts: 6,789
Received 1,647 Likes
on
1,120 Posts
Snow tires went on today, now that it's going to be cool enough not to damage them.
They need about 500 miles on them to start working effectively, or so I've read.
They need about 500 miles on them to start working effectively, or so I've read.
#1508
#1509
Registered User
I have since procured a replacement spare (used) from Oliver Foster and the splined bolt will not fit any of the three mounting holes on that plate either. Any idea what is my issue? That plate is a notorious weak spot in these trucks and I have no intention of weakening one of the holes by making it larger .
TIA.
#1511
So, looking ahead and as I only have limited time to get my truck brake situation resolved once I open the drums back up, tell me if this is a plan worth attempting:
1. Open up the drums 2. E brake cable is already slack/loosened, so push bracket as far towards the rear of the drum as it will go. 3. Clean up the E brake pivot point and associated cam bracket, bushing, etc. and reassemble. T, what type of grease or lube should I put on that pivot area? Same high temp grease that I put on the backing plate for the shoes? 4. The actual cable, anything else to do to it while I'm on there? 5. After all the shoes and hardware are back on, should I semi tighten the cable back up, activate the e brake, and disconnect the e brake to make sure it is releasing fully while the drums are off? 6. If and when all checks out ok, reassemble drum, axle, etc. slack up again the E brake cable. Adjust shoes for slight to no drag. Then adjust the E brake cable- sound good? Missing anything? Other than the FSM directions on adjusting the E brake cable that makes the process easier / mo bettah? Please advise
1. Open up the drums 2. E brake cable is already slack/loosened, so push bracket as far towards the rear of the drum as it will go. 3. Clean up the E brake pivot point and associated cam bracket, bushing, etc. and reassemble. T, what type of grease or lube should I put on that pivot area? Same high temp grease that I put on the backing plate for the shoes? 4. The actual cable, anything else to do to it while I'm on there? 5. After all the shoes and hardware are back on, should I semi tighten the cable back up, activate the e brake, and disconnect the e brake to make sure it is releasing fully while the drums are off? 6. If and when all checks out ok, reassemble drum, axle, etc. slack up again the E brake cable. Adjust shoes for slight to no drag. Then adjust the E brake cable- sound good? Missing anything? Other than the FSM directions on adjusting the E brake cable that makes the process easier / mo bettah? Please advise
#1513
Registered User
So, looking ahead and as I only have limited time to get my truck brake situation resolved once I open the drums back up, tell me if this is a plan worth attempting:
1. Open up the drums
2. E brake cable is already slack/loosened, so push bracket as far towards the rear of the drum as it will go.
3. Clean up the E brake pivot point and associated cam bracket, bushing, etc. and reassemble. T, what type of grease or lube should I put on that pivot area? Same high temp grease that I put on the backing plate for the shoes?
4. The actual cable, anything else to do to it while I'm on there?
5. After all the shoes and hardware are back on, should I semi tighten the cable back up, activate the e brake, and disconnect the e brake to make sure it is releasing fully while the drums are off?
6. If and when all checks out ok, reassemble drum, axle, etc. slack up again the E brake cable. Adjust shoes for slight to no drag. Then adjust the E brake cable- sound good?
Missing anything? Other than the FSM directions on adjusting the E brake cable that makes the process easier / mo bettah? Please advise
1. Open up the drums
2. E brake cable is already slack/loosened, so push bracket as far towards the rear of the drum as it will go.
3. Clean up the E brake pivot point and associated cam bracket, bushing, etc. and reassemble. T, what type of grease or lube should I put on that pivot area? Same high temp grease that I put on the backing plate for the shoes?
4. The actual cable, anything else to do to it while I'm on there?
5. After all the shoes and hardware are back on, should I semi tighten the cable back up, activate the e brake, and disconnect the e brake to make sure it is releasing fully while the drums are off?
6. If and when all checks out ok, reassemble drum, axle, etc. slack up again the E brake cable. Adjust shoes for slight to no drag. Then adjust the E brake cable- sound good?
Missing anything? Other than the FSM directions on adjusting the E brake cable that makes the process easier / mo bettah? Please advise
After that I would pull the pivots for the E-brake cable, and cam, apart and clean them...as for the lube, I used bearing grease. Once that is in good shape I would re-assemble the brakes. Hook up the E-brake cable inside the drum of course. Then slip the drums back over and just loosely hook up the e-brake cables.
Now what i do next might not be standard procedure, but has worked for me. Leaving the axles out, I start to adjust up the brakes until I just hear the drums start to kiss the shoes. Then I will go adjust the E-brake cable until it's snug...not too tight. Then I will pump the brakes a few times and then cycle the e-brake in the cab a few times as well....(truck off). Then climb back under and listen and feel the drums as it spins. Usually they will adjust away from the drum.
I keep doing this procedure until the E-brake is tight and holding the drum tight. But the brakes are not dragging badly when spun by hand....just a slight drag is what I shoot for. The put the axles back in and see if the e-brake needs any more adjustment....will it hold the truck?
Usually takes me at least 30-60 minutes to do it this way, I have not had any issues myself.
#1514
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Posts: 6,789
Received 1,647 Likes
on
1,120 Posts
Ragu... You shouldn't be so hard on yourself. From the above post, I think you can come to the conclusion that both J and have done the same thing as you have. Its inherent in this trucks designs, and the simple fact youre dealing with a 22 year old truck..
I used neverseize, but any type of water resistant grease will do fine. Cllean the parts, remove any rust or contaminant$, lube it up and put it back together. Brake drum will fit at that point.
For me, I pushed the e brake arm all the way rearward. I connected and adjusted the e brake cable threaded rod to put some tension on the cable which aligns the cable end which clips in the recess of the e brake lever. Is there is no tension on that cable, the clip can dislodge itself from the lever when you put the drums back on, thereby leaving you with no cable connected to the arm, when its all back together.
Yes... It happened to me
Once it's all together, adjust the starwheel, but no drag on the shoes. Pump the brakes drums on, starwheel adjusted. This aligns the shoes in the drums. Re adjust the starwheel. No drag. When done, adjust your e brake cable threaded rod without overtightening and pulling cables to the point where they tighten the shoes against the drum.
Drive it gingerly to break in the shoes. Re adjust as necessary.
I used neverseize, but any type of water resistant grease will do fine. Cllean the parts, remove any rust or contaminant$, lube it up and put it back together. Brake drum will fit at that point.
For me, I pushed the e brake arm all the way rearward. I connected and adjusted the e brake cable threaded rod to put some tension on the cable which aligns the cable end which clips in the recess of the e brake lever. Is there is no tension on that cable, the clip can dislodge itself from the lever when you put the drums back on, thereby leaving you with no cable connected to the arm, when its all back together.
Yes... It happened to me
Once it's all together, adjust the starwheel, but no drag on the shoes. Pump the brakes drums on, starwheel adjusted. This aligns the shoes in the drums. Re adjust the starwheel. No drag. When done, adjust your e brake cable threaded rod without overtightening and pulling cables to the point where they tighten the shoes against the drum.
Drive it gingerly to break in the shoes. Re adjust as necessary.
#1515
Ok, fellas, thanks, and T , well I'll try not to beat myself up anymore. Thanks for the emergency responses this past weekend. JM, thanks for making me and others realize that we're human and mistakes are inevitable, and TC, thanks for piping in with a combination of tips that compliments JM's and T-man's suggestions. It all sounds like additional work which equals additional time, but nevertheless, this drum brake stuff doesn't allow room for shortcuts. So with you all's tips I will plan accordingly the next couple a days so when I'm back home this weekend from work I'll have an idea how to structure my attack. May have to whittle at it into late Friday night into the AM. whoo hoo!! Ya gotta love it!