well now that its 95* outside lets fix the A/C
04-21-2009, 03:11 PM
#31
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If at all possible keep it charged with R-12, yes you are reading that right.
After you repair all of your lines you can take it to most Air Conditioner repair shops and you can get it recharged with R-12. It is still around and is plentiful you just have to pay the price.
If you have a good tight system meaning no leaks a couple of hundred dollars to have it professionally recharged is not so outrageous to have a good working system.
Although I would never pay that much.
They also recover it from systems that they work on, clean it and reuse it the only time that it cannot be reused is if it has been contaminated or is from a burnout.
I have purchased a lot of R-12 Dichlorodifluoromethane in the last 40 years and I have paid as low as $.29 for a 14 ounce can of Igloo to $250 for a 30# drum, the last time that I checked a 30# drum of real R-12 was over $1000.00 from my local supply house but I found it much cheaper on the internet, you can buy it as long as you have your technicians licenses that of course I have.
http://www.r22.org/prod_list.php?sci=5
I have used a lot of Drop Ins the best so far has been ICOR Hot Shot and they claim low temps but I have never had temps as low as I have with virgin R-12
http://www.icorinternational.com/hotshot.html
A good evacuation is a must to boil off all of the moisture and contaminants; I use an Edwards Hi Vacuum Diffusion pump off from an Electron Microscope.
Last that I heard you could get it locally is in Mexico.
There are some products on the market sold under the name of Freeze-12
Don’t be misslead it is not real R-12 but is a substitute read the label on the can it must be Dichlorodifluoromethane to be the real thing.
http://autorefrigerants.com/co00030.htm
This is just my opinion though.
Jim
After you repair all of your lines you can take it to most Air Conditioner repair shops and you can get it recharged with R-12. It is still around and is plentiful you just have to pay the price.
If you have a good tight system meaning no leaks a couple of hundred dollars to have it professionally recharged is not so outrageous to have a good working system.
Although I would never pay that much.
They also recover it from systems that they work on, clean it and reuse it the only time that it cannot be reused is if it has been contaminated or is from a burnout.
I have purchased a lot of R-12 Dichlorodifluoromethane in the last 40 years and I have paid as low as $.29 for a 14 ounce can of Igloo to $250 for a 30# drum, the last time that I checked a 30# drum of real R-12 was over $1000.00 from my local supply house but I found it much cheaper on the internet, you can buy it as long as you have your technicians licenses that of course I have.
http://www.r22.org/prod_list.php?sci=5
I have used a lot of Drop Ins the best so far has been ICOR Hot Shot and they claim low temps but I have never had temps as low as I have with virgin R-12
http://www.icorinternational.com/hotshot.html
A good evacuation is a must to boil off all of the moisture and contaminants; I use an Edwards Hi Vacuum Diffusion pump off from an Electron Microscope.
Last that I heard you could get it locally is in Mexico.
There are some products on the market sold under the name of Freeze-12
Don’t be misslead it is not real R-12 but is a substitute read the label on the can it must be Dichlorodifluoromethane to be the real thing.
http://autorefrigerants.com/co00030.htm
This is just my opinion though.
Jim
because i don't have access to an electron microscope to ****** the vac pump off of
how long to vacuum?
what oil?
how much oil?
and so on
04-21-2009, 03:33 PM
#32
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how would this work
New! Freeze 12 complete "Quick-charge kit" Contains: 3 (12oz) cans of Freeze 12, 1 Freeze 12 can-tap, 1 charging hose, 1 pair of Freeze 12 high and low-side service port fittings (which fit directly over R-12 service fittings) and a Freeze 12 system label. $59.95 (plus 4.00 shipping) Order Here
New! Freeze 12 complete "Quick-charge kit" Contains: 3 (12oz) cans of Freeze 12, 1 Freeze 12 can-tap, 1 charging hose, 1 pair of Freeze 12 high and low-side service port fittings (which fit directly over R-12 service fittings) and a Freeze 12 system label. $59.95 (plus 4.00 shipping) Order Here
04-21-2009, 05:52 PM
#33
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As far as any differences between 134A and 12 systems go. 134A is a smaller size molocule and will actually leak out of old R-12 hoses, slowly but eventually. R-134 systems use a barrier hose that runs a special plastic type internal liner to retain the refrigerant, as well as tigher sealing multiple O-ring fittings. I believe some types of R-134 compatible oils like PAG can attack older R-12 O-rings, but I'm not 100% sure as its been over 10 years since I last worked in the field. The purpose of vacuuming down the system is actually to cause any residual refrigerant to boil out of the system and remove any moisure that may be in the system since the oil is highly hydroscopic and tends to soak up moisture like crazy. Replacing the dryer or accumulator is advised to ensure you get all the old oil out, along with any particulate crapola, its also nice to do just to make sure you have good dessicant in the system.
The best way to go to 134 on a budget is to evac the system, then use compressed air to blow the oil out of the major components, replace O-rings as needed, put on the conversion fittings, pull a good vacuum on the system and hold for a couple hours then recharge with the proper 134a oil and refrigerant charge. I'd replace the dryer as well if it was doable within the budget
The best way to go to 134 on a budget is to evac the system, then use compressed air to blow the oil out of the major components, replace O-rings as needed, put on the conversion fittings, pull a good vacuum on the system and hold for a couple hours then recharge with the proper 134a oil and refrigerant charge. I'd replace the dryer as well if it was doable within the budget
04-21-2009, 06:45 PM
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You definitely want to replace the dryer no matter what refrigerant you decide to use, if the system has been open to the environment for any period of time.
The desiccant is retained in a little bag inside the dryer. When the system is open to the atmosphere, the desiccant absorbs the moisture and expands till the bag weakens. You then recharge the system and the bag bursts, spreading the little granules throughout the entire system, which usually ruins the compressor, plugs the evaporator etc.
A decent aftermarket dryer is only about $35, cheap insurance I think.
The desiccant is retained in a little bag inside the dryer. When the system is open to the atmosphere, the desiccant absorbs the moisture and expands till the bag weakens. You then recharge the system and the bag bursts, spreading the little granules throughout the entire system, which usually ruins the compressor, plugs the evaporator etc.
A decent aftermarket dryer is only about $35, cheap insurance I think.
04-21-2009, 07:07 PM
#36
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You definitely want to replace the dryer no matter what refrigerant you decide to use, if the system has been open to the environment for any period of time.
The desiccant is retained in a little bag inside the dryer. When the system is open to the atmosphere, the desiccant absorbs the moisture and expands till the bag weakens. You then recharge the system and the bag bursts, spreading the little granules throughout the entire system, which usually ruins the compressor, plugs the evaporator etc.
A decent aftermarket dryer is only about $35, cheap insurance I think.
The desiccant is retained in a little bag inside the dryer. When the system is open to the atmosphere, the desiccant absorbs the moisture and expands till the bag weakens. You then recharge the system and the bag bursts, spreading the little granules throughout the entire system, which usually ruins the compressor, plugs the evaporator etc.
A decent aftermarket dryer is only about $35, cheap insurance I think.
04-21-2009, 07:49 PM
#38
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what is a good replacement brand
04-21-2009, 08:20 PM
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///////////
04-21-2009, 09:02 PM
#41
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Do you guys think something like this would get the job done.. It is from Auto zone.. Can't find what comes in the kit.. But, I live in Mi... Don't need sub zero Ac.. just something to keep the boys happy!!
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...randName=Quest
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...randName=Quest
04-21-2009, 09:16 PM
#42
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Do you guys think something like this would get the job done.. It is from Auto zone.. Can't find what comes in the kit.. But, I live in Mi... Don't need sub zero Ac.. just something to keep the boys happy!!
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...randName=Quest
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...randName=Quest
http://autorefrigerants.com/co00030.htm
see (Quick change kit) bottom of page
04-22-2009, 04:27 AM
#43
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You can get R-12 here for $29.99 for a 12 ounce can, just have to go in with your buddies to buy a full case to do it the right way.
http://www.r22.org/prod_list.php?sci=5
Today it was HOT here in Southern California around 100* and I have been working on air conditioners all day, I was coming back from Glendale where I was on the roof of a massive apartment complex 3 stories up, the roof that I was standing on for 8 hours was 118*, after I left the job and was headed to the next I was blasting my AC and suddenly I found myself shivering while it was still in the high 90’s, I am sure me being out in the sun for so long didn’t help.
This was with the blower down 1 notch from High. (High speed if you do not have your blower on a relay)
In the summer time it is not uncommon to see us wearing a jacket while in the cab.
I have always liked the idea to install a 12-volt hermetic compressor so it would cool without the engine running.
http://www.procold.it/prodotti_eng.html
If I wanted to loose the noisy blower motor I could insulate the cab and install cold plates under the seat and use small 12-volt computer fans to circulate the air.
I could easly make my truck into a walk in cooler on wheels all powered on the battery.
Jim
http://www.r22.org/prod_list.php?sci=5
Today it was HOT here in Southern California around 100* and I have been working on air conditioners all day, I was coming back from Glendale where I was on the roof of a massive apartment complex 3 stories up, the roof that I was standing on for 8 hours was 118*, after I left the job and was headed to the next I was blasting my AC and suddenly I found myself shivering while it was still in the high 90’s, I am sure me being out in the sun for so long didn’t help.
This was with the blower down 1 notch from High. (High speed if you do not have your blower on a relay)
In the summer time it is not uncommon to see us wearing a jacket while in the cab.
I have always liked the idea to install a 12-volt hermetic compressor so it would cool without the engine running.
http://www.procold.it/prodotti_eng.html
If I wanted to loose the noisy blower motor I could insulate the cab and install cold plates under the seat and use small 12-volt computer fans to circulate the air.
I could easly make my truck into a walk in cooler on wheels all powered on the battery.
Jim
04-22-2009, 06:16 AM
#44
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http://www.hc12ausa.com/
HC 12 is the way to go!!! I cant believe you guys havent heard of this. the env friendly version of r12 no need to change anything!
HC 12 is the way to go!!! I cant believe you guys havent heard of this. the env friendly version of r12 no need to change anything!
04-22-2009, 12:16 PM
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http://www.hc12ausa.com/
HC 12 is the way to go!!! I cant believe you guys havent heard of this. the env friendly version of r12 no need to change anything!
HC 12 is the way to go!!! I cant believe you guys havent heard of this. the env friendly version of r12 no need to change anything!