jiMMyCTD

so the power bug bit me, i go to tweak my pump this morning and all goes well, turn up the smoke screw a bit, pull the diaphram out and turn properlly, and turn teh start wheel CC (that thing is a ***** to move any tricks?) put everything back on. start it up check for leaks. ok

put it in gear and go to step on the pedal and its bound up, i push a bit and it gives 1/4 inch or less and idle goes up to 1300, im like ***!!!!!!!! turn around park shut it off. open the hood and take everything apart. everythig lokos fine. put it back together and start it up. now the linkage moves but it is leaking consistantly under where butterfly brass wings are that piviot off the throtle linkage. what gives? did i crck the pump housing. i see no lines over there. here is a pic. green dot represents where its leaking from under the brass wings.

i knew i should have left well enough alone, i hate repairs, probably going to have to take it in the shop now. $$$$$$$$

jiMMy

Bushy

Hi Jimmy,

Don't git yer shorts in a bunch...

This leak, from what you describe, is a relatively common thing. It is not because you tweaked the starwheel or smoke screw.
The bushing around the throttle shaft slowly wears over time and eventually weeps fuel.
I should ask, did you remove the throttle shaft allen capscrew? It's the big (8mm??) one under the TPS.
If that assembly was removed it can cause the shaft to start weeping/leaking.
Again, don't get in a panic.
If this is in fact the item leaking you'll need to pull the top off the pump and take it to a shop to have the updated bushing put in and, since you're already there, you can even have a new o-ring put in. This is the part that seals the guide pin from leaking.
It should be a fairly cheep and easy fix. I bet the biggest issue, if this is the case, will be the "nervous factor".
As for the starwheel, yep,,,, she's a booger to turn the first few times.
If you look at the bottom of the starwheel you'll see a black piece of spring steel that contacts the starwheel "teeth".
This is nothing more than a retainer so the starwheel doesn't go and move on ya after it's been set.
I used a small flat bladed screw driver to kinda pry one end of the retainer thing away from the teeth on the starwheel. Then, I started to twist the starwheel with the other hand.
It is tight, but you can't pooch this up, trust me here...
Try to leave the smoke screw alone for now. It doesn't do much, other than tweak the fuel used in the first 50 feet of launch. Basically it sets the initial amount of 'no boost fuel'.
You will use this later when you get your pump turned up and need to control some smoke, but for now, don't even bother with it.
Stick to the starwheel, AFC cone positioning, full fuel screw, high idle screw and low idle screw.
Those are the main one's to work on and fine tune.
Ok, that's all I can offer..... I KNOW there are other's who'll jump in here and add some stuff.... hang in there....

pastor bob....

jiMMyCTD

well what you describe souncs like the right area. i did not remove the 8mm allen but im thinking that teh throtle position insert never got lined up when i put the TPS back on and thats what bound up. and by pushing a tad on the bound up throtle it may have tweaked this bushing you speak of.

if this is the case im at a loss on how to remove the top part of the pump i do see a couple other allen heads under there,(you can see one in teh pic) as for that everythign seems to be in tight perdicaments. (have i mentiond yet how much living in apartments sucks big donkey *****)anyhow i checked out the phone book and seems to be a couple pump places around me(hoping hours match up with my work or something) one is even a bosch place.

if more pics are needed that is not a problem.

*tired/confused/and upset at myself*

i think its time for a cold one. thanks for any more insight on this!

jiMMy

cethane

FWIW, The same exact thing happen to me last summer. Right after I tweeked the pump, fuel started spraying from the throttle shaft. I gave the shaft a few light taps with a rubber hammer, and it hasn't leaked since.

jiMMyCTD

well, i have leared a lesson today, I SUCK WITH DIESEL ENGINES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

so i go back out to tinker some more. take of the TPS i then removed the 8mm allen and toko off the brass butterflies(pita to put back on). there is a plunger like stud that had some up and down movement to it with some gear slots on the top. seams to be leaking out of that cylinder. so i clean everything up put everything back the way it was and figure ill start her up and cross my fingers. well i start her up and it only idles at aroun 650-700 now rather than the 850-900 which it use too. i let out a sigh of deafeat. only to be out done by pressing down on the pedal a bit and all it wants to do is die.

aparently i messed something up. my back is sore so its time for more booze and ill take it all apart tomorrow am one mroe time before i tos sin the towel and set up a tow to the shop on monday am! argggggggg.

unhappy CTD owner tongiht, lol. jiMMy

jiMMyCTD

well, its now sitting at the shop waiting diagnosis. i know its the throtle pin o ring, i can see it half in half out. but it needed to be moved from the spot it was parked in at my apt complex. oh well. such as life, this is the first time i have ever had a vehicle of mine in the shop or a shop. this blows! i miss driving her already its been over a week. jiMMy

Alec

That SUCKS. It seems as though somebody didn't do a good job when they re-man'ed that shiny pump on your truck . . . What you did should not have messed anything up as far as I can tell.

Hang in there.

It is too bad you couldn't pull the pump yourself -- fixing the bushing and o-ring is not hard.

jiMMyCTD

well i finally got her back this morning. completly resealed and rebuilt the inside of the pump and advandced the timing a bit. the pump now as some adjustments done to it but in order (didnt tweak it too much though) the accelorator is smooth and should get better milage. all in all, oh well. now its time for the turbo and injectors.

one of the kids that works for the shop said i need more *****. lol, he took me for a ride in his and i about crapped myself. the bug is more than bitting.

happy to be driving my oil burner again. jiMMy

sjessop

What did that work cost you? My local pump shop is quoting $900-1200 for a rebuild. I can buy a new pump from USdieselparts for that much. Are they smoking crack? Or is that the going rate?

jiMMyCTD

since i suck and needed th work done right and didnt want to fuss with it in my apt complex, the pump shop charged me 642
jiMMy

Jdonoghue

Don't feel so bad... I just found out I need to replace the so-called 'new' PODs the previous owner put in my truck - I've only had the thing for a month and now I have to get a new set of injectors! By the time I can afford to do that, the truck will have sat in the driveway for more days than I have driven it I've been advised not to drive it with the leaky injectors unless I want 'extra holes' burned in my pistons