Well...I found my A518 problem.
05-18-2009, 09:29 PM
#1
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Well...I found my A518 problem.
For those of you who have read the thread I posted a couple days ago about my transmission not towing well I found my problem. I purchased this truck around 3 months ago. I bought the truck from the original owner and it was bone stock. Before purchasing a new T/C and trans rebuild kit I decided to investigate a little further. I also found another A518 with 8k miles for $400 which I still might buy for a spare.
As for my problem the kickdown cable wasn't hooked up properly. Therefore, the transmission line pressure wasn't correct and causing the funny shifts. I'm planning on towing my Toyota rock crawler around 180 mi. round trip to go wheelin' this weekend. I changed the fluid and it wasn't nice and red to say the least. However, there was no signs of particles in the pan. With everything hooked up properly the truck shifts like brand new. I did a test pull with my truck and no signs of slippage. I'm aware that my problem did shorten the life of my tranny.
What would ya'll think about my towing this weekend?
Thanks.
As for my problem the kickdown cable wasn't hooked up properly. Therefore, the transmission line pressure wasn't correct and causing the funny shifts. I'm planning on towing my Toyota rock crawler around 180 mi. round trip to go wheelin' this weekend. I changed the fluid and it wasn't nice and red to say the least. However, there was no signs of particles in the pan. With everything hooked up properly the truck shifts like brand new. I did a test pull with my truck and no signs of slippage. I'm aware that my problem did shorten the life of my tranny.
What would ya'll think about my towing this weekend?
Thanks.
05-19-2009, 07:59 AM
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JDP in your test pull did you get it up to full operating temp? I would think if you did get it completely up to temp and it didn't slip it probably will be ok. I think if it was mine i'd try it on a trip just to see if it was ok. I would probably baby it to some extent on my way up and then coming home romp and stomp on it to see what it will do. But that's JMO. Good luck with it.
05-19-2009, 12:19 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Thanks. Yes, it was at normal operating temperature. I did a few hard accelerations on the way to school this morning and all seemed well. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
05-20-2009, 12:16 AM
#5
sounds like you need a kdc adjustment.. I think it is 1/8" of slack from idle, then it should engage.
One thing you should consider is realizing that with an AUTO and the fuel screw cranked + 3200 GSK, your KDC will be way out of whack because you'll be getting much higher RPM + power @ less pedal than stock... In that case your KDC should be probably starting to push at the blip of the pedal...
One thing you should consider is realizing that with an AUTO and the fuel screw cranked + 3200 GSK, your KDC will be way out of whack because you'll be getting much higher RPM + power @ less pedal than stock... In that case your KDC should be probably starting to push at the blip of the pedal...
05-20-2009, 10:35 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
STACKED. This morning I checked mine. Under normal driving 2nd gear came at 18mph. and 3rd came at 28mph. Shifting into 3rd gear at 20mph does seem a little odd.
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05-20-2009, 05:10 PM
#8
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05-20-2009, 07:11 PM
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so what should i adjust and how should i go about doing it? i know how to adjust the tv cable but im not sure where it goes with my mods. i have adjusted it before but it didnt change i dont think.
08-02-2009, 09:29 AM
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Bump? my shifts seem a little loose, and as I remember, the cable doesn't return to it's original position after releasing the throttle... maybe that's on the Utility truck, I havn't been around for awhile!!
08-02-2009, 12:11 PM
#11
Registered User
sounds like you need a kdc adjustment.. I think it is 1/8" of slack from idle, then it should engage.
One thing you should consider is realizing that with an AUTO and the fuel screw cranked + 3200 GSK, your KDC will be way out of whack because you'll be getting much higher RPM + power @ less pedal than stock... In that case your KDC should be probably starting to push at the blip of the pedal...
One thing you should consider is realizing that with an AUTO and the fuel screw cranked + 3200 GSK, your KDC will be way out of whack because you'll be getting much higher RPM + power @ less pedal than stock... In that case your KDC should be probably starting to push at the blip of the pedal...
08-02-2009, 05:46 PM
#12
I'm sure someone can post pics but here is the deal...
Stock with the 2600 GoV Spring, you have the Kick Down cable beginning to engage with 1/8" slack in the oval fitting end that the throttle rod sits in. You can adjust this end fitting fwd and aft via the locking tab towards the firewall on the Kick Down Cable (KDC)
Understand that the farther fwd you slide the cable (only 1/8" possible from stock factory settings) the Trans will want to shift at higher RPMs in relation to throttle setting. If you push the cable BACK (there is a lot of room to go this direction) the cable won't engage until further of the throttle is pressed, making the shift points lower in the RPM.
OK so everything is fine and dandy stock, but once you add the 3200 spring, you're getting much higher RPMs at less throttle/pedal push settings and therefore the trans is all out of sync with the engine and you'll find that it shifts sloppier and too early.
The remedy is to pull the KDC up the 1/8" all the way to the top in a setting where it starts depressing the cable as soon as you go off idle throttle. This will start raising the line pressure sooner and hopefully you'll see and improvement..
If you are STILL shifting late, you need to adjust the throttle to the point where the throttle plate pushes the KDC BEFORE it starts revving the engine off idle!!! That's right, so UNDO the crossy son arm/ball swap on the pump lever, add SLACK to your heim joint as well and then test.
The Crossy Son ball swap inboard is a terrible idea for autos for this reason. The less leverage/more travel it adds per same amt of throttle pedal depressed adds to even further trans mal adjustment to the engine!
I think if you were to really want to do all the mods you should put a manual shift VB in there and be done with it, because it is horrible on your trans to be winding the engine in high RPMS/HP all the time without the KDC adjusted properly. I think more users should be aware of this. Good on you to notice that the trans started acting differently though.
edit I made a pic
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1249253935
Stock with the 2600 GoV Spring, you have the Kick Down cable beginning to engage with 1/8" slack in the oval fitting end that the throttle rod sits in. You can adjust this end fitting fwd and aft via the locking tab towards the firewall on the Kick Down Cable (KDC)
Understand that the farther fwd you slide the cable (only 1/8" possible from stock factory settings) the Trans will want to shift at higher RPMs in relation to throttle setting. If you push the cable BACK (there is a lot of room to go this direction) the cable won't engage until further of the throttle is pressed, making the shift points lower in the RPM.
OK so everything is fine and dandy stock, but once you add the 3200 spring, you're getting much higher RPMs at less throttle/pedal push settings and therefore the trans is all out of sync with the engine and you'll find that it shifts sloppier and too early.
The remedy is to pull the KDC up the 1/8" all the way to the top in a setting where it starts depressing the cable as soon as you go off idle throttle. This will start raising the line pressure sooner and hopefully you'll see and improvement..
If you are STILL shifting late, you need to adjust the throttle to the point where the throttle plate pushes the KDC BEFORE it starts revving the engine off idle!!! That's right, so UNDO the crossy son arm/ball swap on the pump lever, add SLACK to your heim joint as well and then test.
The Crossy Son ball swap inboard is a terrible idea for autos for this reason. The less leverage/more travel it adds per same amt of throttle pedal depressed adds to even further trans mal adjustment to the engine!
I think if you were to really want to do all the mods you should put a manual shift VB in there and be done with it, because it is horrible on your trans to be winding the engine in high RPMS/HP all the time without the KDC adjusted properly. I think more users should be aware of this. Good on you to notice that the trans started acting differently though.
edit I made a pic
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1249253935
08-02-2009, 07:21 PM
#14
Chapter President
I'm sure someone can post pics but here is the deal...
Stock with the 2600 GoV Spring, you have the Kick Down cable beginning to engage with 1/8" slack in the oval fitting end that the throttle rod sits in. You can adjust this end fitting fwd and aft via the locking tab towards the firewall on the Kick Down Cable (KDC)
Understand that the farther fwd you slide the cable (only 1/8" possible from stock factory settings) the Trans will want to shift at higher RPMs in relation to throttle setting. If you push the cable BACK (there is a lot of room to go this direction) the cable won't engage until further of the throttle is pressed, making the shift points lower in the RPM.
OK so everything is fine and dandy stock, but once you add the 3200 spring, you're getting much higher RPMs at less throttle/pedal push settings and therefore the trans is all out of sync with the engine and you'll find that it shifts sloppier and too early.
The remedy is to pull the KDC up the 1/8" all the way to the top in a setting where it starts depressing the cable as soon as you go off idle throttle. This will start raising the line pressure sooner and hopefully you'll see and improvement..
If you are STILL shifting late, you need to adjust the throttle to the point where the throttle plate pushes the KDC BEFORE it starts revving the engine off idle!!! That's right, so UNDO the crossy son arm/ball swap on the pump lever, add SLACK to your heim joint as well and then test.
The Crossy Son ball swap inboard is a terrible idea for autos for this reason. The less leverage/more travel it adds per same amt of throttle pedal depressed adds to even further trans mal adjustment to the engine!
I think if you were to really want to do all the mods you should put a manual shift VB in there and be done with it, because it is horrible on your trans to be winding the engine in high RPMS/HP all the time without the KDC adjusted properly. I think more users should be aware of this. Good on you to notice that the trans started acting differently though.
edit I made a pic
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1249253935
Stock with the 2600 GoV Spring, you have the Kick Down cable beginning to engage with 1/8" slack in the oval fitting end that the throttle rod sits in. You can adjust this end fitting fwd and aft via the locking tab towards the firewall on the Kick Down Cable (KDC)
Understand that the farther fwd you slide the cable (only 1/8" possible from stock factory settings) the Trans will want to shift at higher RPMs in relation to throttle setting. If you push the cable BACK (there is a lot of room to go this direction) the cable won't engage until further of the throttle is pressed, making the shift points lower in the RPM.
OK so everything is fine and dandy stock, but once you add the 3200 spring, you're getting much higher RPMs at less throttle/pedal push settings and therefore the trans is all out of sync with the engine and you'll find that it shifts sloppier and too early.
The remedy is to pull the KDC up the 1/8" all the way to the top in a setting where it starts depressing the cable as soon as you go off idle throttle. This will start raising the line pressure sooner and hopefully you'll see and improvement..
If you are STILL shifting late, you need to adjust the throttle to the point where the throttle plate pushes the KDC BEFORE it starts revving the engine off idle!!! That's right, so UNDO the crossy son arm/ball swap on the pump lever, add SLACK to your heim joint as well and then test.
The Crossy Son ball swap inboard is a terrible idea for autos for this reason. The less leverage/more travel it adds per same amt of throttle pedal depressed adds to even further trans mal adjustment to the engine!
I think if you were to really want to do all the mods you should put a manual shift VB in there and be done with it, because it is horrible on your trans to be winding the engine in high RPMS/HP all the time without the KDC adjusted properly. I think more users should be aware of this. Good on you to notice that the trans started acting differently though.
edit I made a pic
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1249253935
08-02-2009, 08:25 PM
#15
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Here's how mine is set if it helps.
First, some backround. The high idle screw is backed out half way.
I'm running a 3200 spring in the pump. The smoke screw is backed out till the exaust just smokes at peak rpm. The linkage ball is in the inside hole. With the pump set this way, I set both throttle & Kickdown to reach full travel at same time. Trans shifts great this way.
BTW. This is how old MOPAR gassers were set up.
First, some backround. The high idle screw is backed out half way.
I'm running a 3200 spring in the pump. The smoke screw is backed out till the exaust just smokes at peak rpm. The linkage ball is in the inside hole. With the pump set this way, I set both throttle & Kickdown to reach full travel at same time. Trans shifts great this way.
BTW. This is how old MOPAR gassers were set up.