wannadiesel

AFC = Air-Fuel Control. It is the doo-hickey on top of the pump that contains the smoke screw, star wheel, and fuel cone. Backing off the smoke screw and star wheel will reduce the amount of fuel available at low boost, and reduce EGT. Unfortunately, less fuel = less power. But it's free and you can play with it all you want. If you don't like it, put it back the way it was.

You have an 18.5 cm housing. If you can keep the RPM up it makes enough boost to keep things cool, but as you've found it does not make enough boost at low RPM. I really like the 12 cm wastegated housing for trucks with stock injectors. It will fix your low RPM EGT problem, with the bonus of reducing turbo lag to almost nothing.

You may find it restrictive at the top end, and if you run fast on the highway it will hurt your fuel economy a little.

loch

It should be an 18 housing, I also pull but i want to get a hybrid with a 16.

BearKiller

With 3.55 rears and Getrag, what speed are you calling fast??

I seldom go over sixty-five, but occassionally, in the western states, eighty-five, or so.

I could sacrifice a MPG, or two, at the higher end of my driving, in favor of lower EGT; but, at my normal speeds, I would rather gain a few MPG, at least until fuel goes back to sixty cents a gallon.

Another thing, are you meaning just swap exhaust housing, or swap the whole turbo??

Thanks.

SN162

Im thinking about doing this, if I buy a non-intercooled Cummins. How much tuning is involved after this setup is installed? Because I dont want to have to contantly mess with the thing...

wannadiesel

Fast = over 70. It's only an mpg or two, even at high speed. At normal speeds mileage may increase depending on your driving style, but it won't drop.

You can change just the housing or you can swap in a 2nd gen turbo. Whichever works for you.

wannadiesel

I haven't messed with mine since about a week after I installed it. I tuned it mainly on the drive to and from work. Once you have it set up, all you have to do is fill the tank.

BigWaylon

I didn't see Loch mention what he used for a tank...

I know rockjeep73 said he was using stock ww fluid reservoir, but I'm wondering just how long that would last...

if you use an alternate tank, where did anybody mount it?

Thanks.
Greg

Micaiahfied

when you say how long the ww fluid res would last are you talking about capacity or it holding up? water meth is darn near the same thing a ww fluid. so the tank will be fine. as far as it running out, most systems come with a pretty small res. of corse a play truck can get away with a much smaller tank than a towing rig.

BC847

I put this six gallon tank in my tool box ~

BearKiller

Are you meaning standard equipment/OEM turbo from a 2nd Gen.

I see names such as HX35, etc.; what is the name/number designation of the recommended turbo(s) for me??

What is the OEM turbo on my engine called??

What will I get into on the exhaust-pipe end of things, when changing turbos??

Thanks.

BigWaylon

the 1st Gen has an H1C turbo...

the '94 added a wastegate and called it a WH1C...

in '95 they swapped to an HX35 turbo...

beyond that, I'm not sure...

Greg

BigWaylon

how long in regards to capacity...I'd be after cooling/performance when towing my Jeep to the trails, usually a couple hours each way...

Greg

wannadiesel

You're gonna need a big tank. The one BC847 has is a little on the small side for a tow rig. No less than 5 gallons, but 8-10 gallons would be ideal.

loch

My tank is a kobota fuel tank,5gln

HOHN

A good tank option is the sprayer tanks from Northern Tool. Identical to the Snow upgraded tank, but much cheaper, AFAIK.