wannadiesel

See my post above.

I think the bars are a band-aid, and I'm not sure they are all that effective in reverse. Losing the lift blocks will dramatically reduce axle wrap.

thumbs

Ok I can do that but what were they there for in the first place? What will be the difference without them. Takeing them out will reduce or get rid of the axle wrap?

I have to do something here. What are the lift springs Ace is talking about. Maybe the best route for me is to do what your saying and take the blocks out and add the lift springs. Is that pretty much it or is there other mods that have to be made to do this. Where do you get the lift springs? Is there a thread on this mod?

thanks

wannadiesel

Dodge used them so they could use the same springs on 2wd and 4X4 trucks. You need to replace the stock springs with lift springs or the back end of the truck will sit about 2 inches low.

RumbleFish

Instead of buying springs you could do a shackle flip with factory hangers.

http://ramchargercentral.com/index.p...owtoshow;id=69

I am willing to bet its cheaper too

thumbs

Oh ok. This isn't an add on like an overload spring. This is a replacement spring that will take up the distance the block took up. Where do you get these springs? Is the reason for my axle wrap just that the springs are to light for the job and the torque of the Cummins? The new "lift springs" are heavier springs that won't wrap under the torque of the Cummins. Am I on the right page here. This is a fix for the wheel hop and not the bandaid. Like I said before I have had this problem since I bought the truck new. In the snow it's just about useless because of the hop. Basicly it's under sprong, right?

dieselcarpenter

Changing to a lift spring will take away the mechanical advantage (in this case leverage). Think of the letter T , the top is the spring and the pole is the block, torque is amplified at the bottom (ie leverage). There is less leverage when the axel is right at the spring. It will help allot from what I hear to go to lift springs, they are on my list as well.

thumbs

What am I looking for in these lift springs? Where do ya get them and is there a part number or do you just go to a spring shop and tell them what you want?

dieselcarpenter

Wanna probably knows best, but Skyjacker makes springs that fit our trucks, just not sure what amount of lift you would need, give them a call and they can hook you up.

BearKiller

For the truck to be the same height, you will need the same amount of lift as the block you are removing is tall.

In other words, if the riser-block is four inches tall, you will need a four inch over-stock lift spring.

When in doubt, find a good spring shop that has re-arching and spring building capabilities, and have them do the job for you.

In 1978, I had Louisville Auto Spring remove and re-arch the front springs on my 1978 K-20 Chevy, making them six inches over stock, and adding four leaves, for a total of six leaves.

That was over 400,000 rough miles ago and those springs have never had an issue and the truck stands as straight and tall as it did the day it was done.

brainfade

Just to pipe in here: I pulled the blocks out of mine (3 in if I remember) and replaced them with a 5 in. lift on the rear and 2 in. lift on the front. It helped with the axle wrap issue, reduced it some, but I still have that jerking motion in reverse. I'm pretty sure it's due to the clutch not engaging smoothly. What I've found is that the Cummins has enough torque, even at idle, that I just let the clutch out as quickly as I can without jerking anything and let it idle. Once the clutch is engaged there is no issue with axle wrap forward or reverse. Motor and trans mounts also contribute to this problem if they are worn out and sloppy. I've seen this clutch issue on big trucks too, so you might want to take a look at the clutch and mounts.

thumbs

Yeah thought about the mounts also and checked them not to long ago. I also thought it was the clutch and took it to he trans shop and it's just fine. I can get rid of most of the jerkin or wraping with a little clutch slipping when starting out. I guess my gvw with the trailer is about
20K. When backin I put the transfer case in low range and leave the hubs unlocked to get the lower ratio. Even with this slow speed when letting the clutch out backin up the grade it's a edit getting the clutch all the way out. I have to slip the clutch a bit then push er in then let er out then in until I can get the thing to idle back. Once the clutch is out it's fine.

thumbs

Yeah I just want the thing to pull the trailer without the jumpin. The worst is in reverse tryin to back up the grade. Of course once the clutch is out it's fine, but until that it's a pia. As Wanna will attest I do have a bit of weight on the bed of the truck so that's not the answer. But if it needs bars, springs or that's just the way it is IDONO.

wannadiesel

It's not that the springs are too weak, it's the extra leverage from the lift blocks that is the main cause of the problem. I would get rid of the blocks.

thumbs

Ok but if I get rid of the blocks that will lower the rear right? That means if I get rid if the blocks I need new springs. Am I on the right page here? I don't want the rear lowered.

I was under there today for something else. I'll bet those blocks are at least 5" if not 6. They are hugh.

wannadiesel

Exactly.