bannerd

So I tore my truck all apart in my small garage. I'm going to be restoring this truck from the top to the bottom and then painting it a smooth black.

What do you guys think about this, it's almost like the panels were glued into place.




Anyways I'm going to mig them in and lay some metal on them. Was this factory? Seems like a cheap route.

user name

I believe what you are looking at is the seam sealer the factory put on to keep dirt a moisture out of the seems. Most body panels are spot welded at a pinch point not full welded. you could remove the sealer and check for any rust issues if there isn't any rust I would just apply new seam sealer. A full weld going to burn through any rust protection put on at the factory and not really gain any strength to speak of. Not only that but you run the risk of warping the hell out of the panel which will be very visible in gloss black.

my $0.02 anyway.

That's the second picture anyway can't really see the first one well enough to know what your talking about.

bannerd

Yeah, that was at 11pm last night. My goal is to remove all the paint from the cab, weld/body fill and then undercoat the inside of the cab then lay down the carpet.

bannerd

Okay guys, I wire brushed the cab last night, welded a new floor panel and then put some primer on it. The other floor panel was very pitted so I'm going to sand the primer some more and keep working it. I need to get the dash out, does anyone have any suggestions? I'm in the middle of taking my heater out of the truck. My only concern is the window looks like it needs to come out as well? For the dash it looks like two bolts on the sides and then two more where the glove box is?


Call me crazy but I have a thirty minute drive to get the truck soda blasted in a few months. I was hoping that I didn't have to take the window out the front.

Also, what do you guys like for seam sealer? The stuff from the factory is hard and no good.. just breaks like hard candy.

thrashingcows

Hahahaha...I had to drive 25 minutes with no windshield when I took it down to get a new front windshield put in. I did this in November too. Suited up, set of driving goggles, and away I went. It was actually quite a pleasant drive to be honest.

Anyway you should be able to access the 5-6? bolts that are hidden under the bottom edge of the front windshield gasket. You can either cut out a notch in the gasket, or make up some sort of tool to hold the gasket up and out of the way while you remove the small screws, or bolts.

Not an easy job, but it can be done.

bannerd

Or plan B it and suit up

I have to get some pictures up, everything is looking good.

bannerd

Progress tonight;





Removed the Tach, Radio, Heater, HVAC and plumbing. Thinking I should have just removed the window. Whats the best way to do this, cut away the seal or heat it up and pull? Also how makes these seals? I did some looking and I can't find anything.

bannerd

Well more progress!


I ended up taking the windshield out to remove the dash. All you have to do is remove the rubber line that holds the window in. Sort of acts like a tire brick to keep a truck from rolling away on you. Then you push from the top and out. The ridge on the top is smaller than the ridge on the bottom. The gasket only goes one way, there is a larger rubber part on the bottom than the top and sides.



The rubber line (lock) slides in there, you'll find this at the middle/bottom of the window if you need to remover it. When you reinstall the window it wouldn't hurt to clean the channel and put a line of sealant in there.



The important part is this channel where the window goes in, you need about a 1/8 inch of sealant in this channel all the way around. Don't skimp on sealant our you will have leaks. From there the window just presses into the cab, remember to but to bottom in first!

Fun part will be getting my truck to the shop.

patdaly

Bannerd, just borrow a buddies full face motorcycle helmet.

And you should get a new front windshield seal, not the best thing to use and old one unless it isn't old at all and is still completely soft.

bannerd

Yeah, I'm searching for a new seal, impossible to find these things. Napa said precision makes them but they're out of stock. Most places online are out of stock. My seal is still soft and isn't hard so if I can find one I'll have to use the old one for now.

also while taking the wire whip out.. I noticed there is switches for over drive and other things. I assume this was to a auto? Or did all the whips look like this and are universal?

Mark Nixon

I re-use old windshield seals all the time and hardly ever a problem.
If you have a doubt about the seal, but it's still decently pliable, you can get some life back into it.

First clean it very well, get all the goo off it with brake cleaner or thinner, then wash it in warm soapy water, then rinse with hot water (HOT water helps it to dry faster).
After that is done and it's dry, use brake fluid to soak it in overnight, which will loosen it up and revive it.

I've only ever had to do the brake fluid a couple times, but it definitely makes a difference.

Mark.

bannerd

Would the brake fluid deform the rubber? I had brake fluid on rubber before and it went loopy on me.

Mark Nixon

I didn't have that problem.
Windshield gaskets are a denser rubber, so it takes quite a lot of brake fluid for a long time to get to them.

If it bothers you, just wipe it down repeatedly, instead of soaking it.
It's pretty effective at getting the desired end result.

Mark.

bannerd

Thanks for all the advice, my next question is paint. I primed my fenders and I popped out the dents using my stud gun. I went to advanced auto and picked up some dupli-color in a gallon jug. I painted a fender and I'm not happy the way it turned out. The clear coat looks like crap and has no shine. Did I do this wrong maybe?

simplysmn

sound's like bad prep ?