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Voltage Regulator Help?

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Old 11-23-2004, 06:19 PM
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OK...changed out the terminals & regrounded everything...no change but it needed it anyway.

Had the auto parts store run a test on my battery, it's good. Alternator wasn't putting out anything. But it was previously re-brushed and tested at the alternator shop and said it was good as new...

The regulator for a '71 318 Pickup is the same number listed for a '92. It has a connection on it and no wires. The connection was a triangle shape with 2 prongs... I didn't buy it yet though... is that the one I need? What do I use for a connection?

Does anyone have a pic or diagram or quick drawing of the external regulator install for the late '92-93 SEMC controlled trucks?
Old 11-23-2004, 08:06 PM
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Originally posted by TexasHardcore
OK...changed out the terminals & regrounded everything...no change but it needed it anyway.

Had the auto parts store run a test on my battery, it's good. Alternator wasn't putting out anything. But it was previously re-brushed and tested at the alternator shop and said it was good as new...

The regulator for a '71 318 Pickup is the same number listed for a '92. It has a connection on it and no wires. The connection was a triangle shape with 2 prongs... I didn't buy it yet though... is that the one I need? What do I use for a connection?

Does anyone have a pic or diagram or quick drawing of the external regulator install for the late '92-93 SEMC controlled trucks?
I tried to search for the thread where I put how to do it and could not find it, so here goes.

The two terminals on the alternator for the regulator are interchangable. The alternator is a dumb alternator for an external regulator. The PCM is that regulator normally. The alternator does not care weather it is controlled by the PCM or a regulator. The PCM is not affected by not being hooked to the alternator.

The two terminal regulator has the contacts in the shape of a pyrimid. One terminal is missing. The missing terminal and one other terminal are at the base of the pyrimid.

Ok, hook the two alternator terminals to the two regulator terminals. Does no matter which goes to which. Now run a 12 volt line from an ignition source to the top regulator terminal along with the alternator wire. Thats it except you need a good ground from the alternator to the regulator case. On a second gen get that power from the output of the ASD relay.

A little note on this system. I have doen several of them and helped a few do this change. If you hook the 12 volt up to the wrong regulator terminal, it does fry the regulator. Not much problem, seven bucks gets another one.

Mine has been running this was for a year and over 100,000 miles

The terminals for the regulator can be just the round female terminals that are used for connecters on lights and other places or go to an older junk yard and cut the plug from about any old chrysler product. You can cut the plug from the Dodge harness for the alternator side unless you can find one extra. I use the Dakota alternator which has screw terminals instead of the plug. The stock plug just hangs there.
Old 11-23-2004, 09:25 PM
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Haulin...thanks a bunch, that clears it up. Your post in the tech section just didn't make any sense to me, but now I got it understood. I'll try the new regulator tomorrow morning, hopefully this will cure the problem so I can get on the road up to Dallas and get some turkey! Thanks again!

Two quick questions...what 12V Ignition source would be best to use? and would a screw holding the case to the firewall be the ground contact?
Old 11-23-2004, 10:12 PM
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Jeremy- The ASD relay output would work well - if the ASD relay is putting out current with the engine running. If not, the wire to the shutoff solenoid would work.
Old 11-23-2004, 10:14 PM
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Errrr, what wires are those?

I'm braindead this week. sorry. too much stuff going on.
Old 11-23-2004, 10:23 PM
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ASD relay is the front one. There are several wires, you want one of the two thicker ones. Trace them both, one goes directly to the battery - don't use that one, use the other one.
Old 11-23-2004, 10:31 PM
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OK, I picked up a Chilton's manual for a little guidance. It shows a Dark Blue wire from ASD Relay to Ignition Switch and to PCM. Shows a Red "Hot" Fusible Link and shows a Dark Green going to PCM with a split with a Dark Green/Orange going to Generator...
Old 11-23-2004, 10:40 PM
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You want the one going to the generator - if it's got voltage when the engine is running.
Old 11-23-2004, 10:56 PM
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Am I on the right track with this?

Old 11-23-2004, 11:04 PM
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Yep. You even remembered to ground it good. Make sure the 12 volt source shuts off with the key or the regulator will drain the battery.
Old 11-24-2004, 12:14 PM
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Thanks for the clarification Haulin, I have re-done the tech facts and added your pic Jeremy. Thanks
Old 11-24-2004, 04:25 PM
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Cool Monty....now time to go see if it works, haha!
Old 11-24-2004, 05:43 PM
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Monty,

I did not know that it was in tech facts. One change would be helpful, it works for any of the "dumb" alternator trucks. My son did it to a Caravan. Dakota's have the same system. Mine is a second gen so the same works for it too. I do not know about the third gen wiring systems but it probably works there also. I have seen some first gens that have an alternator with the regulator internal, do not know what years, they were truck I transported.

My info on the ASD relay is only experienced with the second gen by me.

Reading it in tech facts, that was not one of my better spelling days. I know how to spell, but sometimes my fingers don't do what I plan Yeah, and 64 is coming too soon... my age ya know
Old 11-24-2004, 06:17 PM
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OK...wired it up just like the diagram. Used top terminal on regulator for the two wire hookup (one to Alternator, one to ASD Relay), used bottom terminal on regulator to go sraight to Alternator. Grounded case with 10AWG Ground wire.

I used the Blue wire from the ASD Relay (Hot with Ignition only)

Started the truck and the Amp Gauge dropped and the regulator started smoking.

Something ain't right....
Old 11-24-2004, 06:21 PM
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