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VE Rebuild

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Old 03-05-2013, 09:02 PM
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VE Rebuild

Hey Everybody,

I am in the process of rebuilding the IP on my 89' D-250. Are there any suggestions for the rebuild process? I have been following some of the links in the sticky and they have been really helpful. Just trying to get any pointers that may be out there.

Thanks,

Matt
Old 03-06-2013, 06:58 AM
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Rebuilding or just replacing the seals? If you're just doing the seals you need to replace the plunger springs.
Old 03-06-2013, 12:18 PM
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One tip that I don't recall seeing in the Sticky threads...was when you have the pump apart you'll find a small thrust washer that goes between the cam plate, and the piston head. When you reassemble everything make sure you use a dab of bearing grease to hold that thrust washer in place.

I didn't the first time I rebuilt my pump, and it was out of alignment. When I cranked the motor to try and start it the washer shattered under the pressure, and then cracked my piston head. I had to get another pump to rebuild.
Old 03-06-2013, 09:07 PM
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I am resealing the pump...but will check into those springs at the local injection shop. Thanks for the tip Thrashingcows, I will definately do that when I put the cam plate and piston back in. Do you guys think any of the parts should be soaked in diesel before putting it back together or is there any type of assembly lubricant a guy should put on the seals?
Old 03-06-2013, 09:12 PM
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Vaseline....its petroleum based and will dissolve. Also helps keep those springs in place during reassembly.
Old 03-06-2013, 09:24 PM
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Vaseline as stated, and I used STP engine oil treatment...in it's raw form, to lube parts and O-rings.

93-12Smoke....Not sure what springs your referring too...plunger springs? Are you talking about the big springs that run from the piston head down towards the cam plate?
Old 03-06-2013, 09:28 PM
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Yes, they fatigue and will break. Little Vaseline will also help hold those two small springs in the head when reinstalling it.
Old 03-06-2013, 09:32 PM
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They seem to do this more in the Intercooled pumps, then the earlier Non-IC ones. Not sure why. But even then not a huge percentage fail like this. The new springs shouldn't cost you more then $50 or so. Personally I would just re-install them...but that's just me.
Old 03-06-2013, 09:38 PM
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I've taken two pumps out that had broken springs. One of my springs was broke in two places.
Old 03-06-2013, 09:39 PM
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I was just suggesting it from the point of its already apart and they are cheap to replace so if you have the money to spare its easy to do now.
Old 03-06-2013, 09:46 PM
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I have a IC IP I bought because they said it had too much shaft movement. I figured it was those springs. I got it for next to nothing. Both springs had shattered..one into 2 pieces, the other into 3.

But as I stated I have seen this problem most prevalent in the IC trucks. Not too many in the Non-IC IP's. If the OP is truly concerned about this, and you have the extra time and money, then definitely replace the springs.
Old 03-06-2013, 09:53 PM
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Wonder why its more often on ic pumps
Old 03-07-2013, 06:34 AM
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Are you guys talking about these springs?

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Old 03-07-2013, 09:54 AM
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Yes, i replace them when i take a pump apart.
Old 03-12-2013, 10:46 AM
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I did the same thing thrashingcows! I used grease on the springs but did not on the washer and guessing it moved on assembly. Shattered the washer and broke the distributor shaft. Anybody know where I can buy these parts (got a good deal on a brand new pump so not in no hurry) I did not have a barring tool so with my truck being a 5speed I just jacked up the driver rear wheel and had my son turn it by hand while I watched the keyway to get the right position.


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