VE Rebuild
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
VE Rebuild
Hey Everybody,
I am in the process of rebuilding the IP on my 89' D-250. Are there any suggestions for the rebuild process? I have been following some of the links in the sticky and they have been really helpful. Just trying to get any pointers that may be out there.
Thanks,
Matt
I am in the process of rebuilding the IP on my 89' D-250. Are there any suggestions for the rebuild process? I have been following some of the links in the sticky and they have been really helpful. Just trying to get any pointers that may be out there.
Thanks,
Matt
#3
Registered User
One tip that I don't recall seeing in the Sticky threads...was when you have the pump apart you'll find a small thrust washer that goes between the cam plate, and the piston head. When you reassemble everything make sure you use a dab of bearing grease to hold that thrust washer in place.
I didn't the first time I rebuilt my pump, and it was out of alignment. When I cranked the motor to try and start it the washer shattered under the pressure, and then cracked my piston head. I had to get another pump to rebuild.
I didn't the first time I rebuilt my pump, and it was out of alignment. When I cranked the motor to try and start it the washer shattered under the pressure, and then cracked my piston head. I had to get another pump to rebuild.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
I am resealing the pump...but will check into those springs at the local injection shop. Thanks for the tip Thrashingcows, I will definately do that when I put the cam plate and piston back in. Do you guys think any of the parts should be soaked in diesel before putting it back together or is there any type of assembly lubricant a guy should put on the seals?
#6
Registered User
Vaseline as stated, and I used STP engine oil treatment...in it's raw form, to lube parts and O-rings.
93-12Smoke....Not sure what springs your referring too...plunger springs? Are you talking about the big springs that run from the piston head down towards the cam plate?
93-12Smoke....Not sure what springs your referring too...plunger springs? Are you talking about the big springs that run from the piston head down towards the cam plate?
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#8
Registered User
They seem to do this more in the Intercooled pumps, then the earlier Non-IC ones. Not sure why. But even then not a huge percentage fail like this. The new springs shouldn't cost you more then $50 or so. Personally I would just re-install them...but that's just me.
#11
Registered User
I have a IC IP I bought because they said it had too much shaft movement. I figured it was those springs. I got it for next to nothing. Both springs had shattered..one into 2 pieces, the other into 3.
But as I stated I have seen this problem most prevalent in the IC trucks. Not too many in the Non-IC IP's. If the OP is truly concerned about this, and you have the extra time and money, then definitely replace the springs.
But as I stated I have seen this problem most prevalent in the IC trucks. Not too many in the Non-IC IP's. If the OP is truly concerned about this, and you have the extra time and money, then definitely replace the springs.
#15
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: S.W. LOUISIANA
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I did the same thing thrashingcows! I used grease on the springs but did not on the washer and guessing it moved on assembly. Shattered the washer and broke the distributor shaft. Anybody know where I can buy these parts (got a good deal on a brand new pump so not in no hurry) I did not have a barring tool so with my truck being a 5speed I just jacked up the driver rear wheel and had my son turn it by hand while I watched the keyway to get the right position.