AUGIE DOG

I NEED SOME HELP IN LOCATING REASONABLY PRICED BALL JOINTS FOR MY TRUCK. I LOOKED AT PART #'S IN HELP SECTION AND I SAW PRICES FOR MOOG PARTS. MY LOCAL PARTS STORE THAT CARRIES MOOG IS WAY OUT OF LINE WITH WHAT IS LISTED IN 1 st. GEN FORUM. ARE NAPA PARTS GOOD QUALITY PARTS??? I'M PREPARING TO PUT MY DONOR FRONT END UNDER MY CONVERSION AND I WANT TO BE PREPARED FOR THE SWAP AND HAVE ALL PARTS ON HAND WHEN I DO THIS. NAPA IS WAY CHEAPER THAN MOOG PARTS BUT I'M NOT SURE OF QUALITY. THIS IS A DAILY DRIVER AND I USE IT MAINLY FOR TOWING MY TRAVEL TRAILER. YOUR SUGGESTIONS WILL BE APPRECIATED. THANKS FOR THE SUPPORT GUYS!!! AUGIE DOG

wannadiesel

I wouldn't settle for less than the Moog parts. The 2wd's are murder on ball joints.

dpuckett

I second the MOOG recommendation. Local NAPA store (who has a good relationship with the shop my g/f works for, and thus gives me their same discount) couldnt give me a brand name, so I went to O'Reiley's and got the shop discount on MOOGs there. It was right at $80 a pop for lowers, and I think $70 for uppers, though I could be a little off. One was noticeably higher than the other. But, my mom went ElCheapo on her D350, and had the $25 ball joints replaced 3x under warranty. I told her the labor she paid at $25/hr for 2 more times would have bought the MOOGs. She has them in her truck now. Now if I could just get her to slow down on the gravel roads and save her body (truck's)

Daniel

maxx250

If you go to autoparts warehouse.com they have the MOOG ball joints for 40.95 uppers and 36.95 lowers.

AUGIE DOG

OKAY! I WENT TO AUTOPARTS WAREHOUSE AND LOOKED AT B-JOINTS. THEY SHOW PARTS FOR 3300 # AND 4000# AXLE'S, 3300 IS CHEAPER. MY TRUCK IS SHOWING 3,830 # FRONT AXLE AS LISTED ON DOOR TAG . IT'S A STD. CAB WITH LONG BED. ( 165 in. WHL BASE I'M GUESSIN) ANY THOUGHTS GUYS. THIS SUPPLIER IS DEFINITLY CHEAPER BY A FEW $$$'S THAN WHAT'S NEAR ME. BY THE WAY THE 3300 # AXLE IS ALSO LISTED WITH THE 5.9 DIESEL. WHAT'S UP WITH THAT ??

AUGIE DOG

OK! I HAVE SOME MORE INFO FOR EVERYONE. THE WHEEL BASE IS 131 in. AND ACCORDING TO AUTOPARTS WAREHOUSE BASED ON VIN # AND WHL BASE I NEED THE MOK7025 - LOWER AND MOK7708 - UPPER WHICH IS THE CHEAPER OF THE JOINTS LISTED. WHAT'S THROWING ME OFF IS MY FRONT AXLE WHICH IS LISTED AS 3830# ON DOOR JAMB. WILL THE NUMBERS I LISTED WORK? OR DO I NEED TO GO WITH THE 4000# PARTS. THIS IS ONE AREA DODGE MAKES THINGS CONFUSING FOR US !!!

dpuckett

Get em both if you can afford it up front, then return the ones you dont need. I know it's a pain in the rear, but it is common practice with 1stGen Dodge diesels, esp with guys who own 3/4tons. Some of them got heavier stuff than others, esp in suspension and steering. We dually owners dont have quite as much trouble- just order the biggest available, and it normally works.

DP

AUGIE DOG

Ok! I Have Figured Out What Ball Joints I Need Based On Time Consuming Research. I Need The 4,000# Bj's At A Substantial Cost But Oh... Well!! My Question Is ??? I Need A Spring Compressor. A Friend Loaned Me His And The Clamp That's Goes Around The Coil Diameter Will Not Fit. Coil To Big. Does Auto Part Store Loan Big Commpressor Tool , Harbor Freight Or Go To A Heavy Truck Parts Place ??? I'm Not In A Position To Make My Own Tool At This Point. What Tool Did Some Of Ya'll Use To Do Front End Work? Thanks For Your Help. I'm Gonna Post This Again. I Think I Pushed The Wrong Button. If This Does Post Twice I Apoligize For My Senoir Moment.

dpuckett

You dont need a spring compressor. You need a BFH (Big freaking hammer), 12-16# is ideal if you can swing it; lighter is better if you cant- aim is critical.

Pop the spindle off the lower control arm. Put a floor jack under the spring, leaving the area under the ball joint free and open. After some PB Blaster sitting on it for several minutes, start wailing away with the hammer on the BALL JOINT itself, not the stem, and not the control arm. I hit and hit and hit with a 8 lb-er; 2 swings with a 16# on a short handle popped the puppy right out of there.

Daniel

Gator

There is a tool called a salad fork that goes in between the ball joint and the part the ball joint bolts to. There is a sticker under the hood of my 92 D-250 that lists it with a 4000# front axle if that helps any.

ppiggppenn

... for sure, ...I've heard them called "pickle fork" as well. They chew up the boot so don't do well for good joints coming apart. I've seen ball joint removers with a press screw so one can get them apart with less drama and damage. FWIW

searcher

Advance Auto Parts has ball joint presses that work on our trucks in their loaner tools.

AUGIE DOG

Thanks For The Suggestions Guys. But I'm Not Taking Ball Joints Out At This Time. I Am Removing Upper And Lower Control Arms And Spindle As One Unit So I Need To Compress Spring To Take Tension Off Control Arms And Unbolt Arms,spindle's As One Piece. Does That Make Sense?? I Have Decided To Use Control Arms From Donor Truck Instead Of One's On The Reciever Truck. I Will Also Use Tie Rod And All Steering Components As Well That Way Everything Underneath Will Be Heavy Duty.

johnh

try here for ball joints http://www.overnightautoparts.com

bigragu

What are the signs of failing ball joints? Please describe.