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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
A while back I posted about my 93 W350 running hot, it easily runs 205 with no AC and 10-12 lbs boost. EGTs are 900. Ive literally replaced every cooling component as I couldnt get the truck to run cool on hot days pulling my 48ft trailer. I replaced the radiator with a Griffin 2.5 inch dual core radiator, water pump, fan clutch, t-stat, hoses, added a aux cooler in the heater hoses, power washed IC and condenser. Im getting 48 degree temp drop across radiator sitting still, Soooo.
I pulled the T-stat and retested it, it opens fine, so I drilled 6 1/8 holes around the stat and road tested it pulling the trailer with 97 degree air temp. It idled at 185 degrees and ran fairly stable at 197 on the highway, no AC. I did turn the AC on for a couple miles but temps were creeping up, so I shut it off and it returned to 197.
Im wondering if I add a couple more holes or made the other ones a bit larger if it may cool a bit better. I bought a low temp Mishimoto t-stat that Im gonna drill hoping it will trop the temps a bit more and allow me to run AC whole towing.
I would not be to hasty to run the temps down to low. IC engines are HEAT engines and as such they are more efficient when they are HOT. Running the engine colder means you are simply dumping fuel as heat out of the radiator. Run it as hot as your oil and bearings will handle and you'll get better mileage. That's the theory anyway. Somebody else may be able to give a maximum temp for safe running.
I would not be to hasty to run the temps down to low. IC engines are HEAT engines and as such they are more efficient when they are HOT. Running the engine colder means you are simply dumping fuel as heat out of the radiator. Run it as hot as your oil and bearings will handle and you'll get better mileage. That's the theory anyway. Somebody else may be able to give a maximum temp for safe running.
Edwin
Still not cool enough tho. If I use AC pulling my trailer I can still run hotter temps, plus Im only running 10-12 psi boost. Id like to see 190 with AC blowing.
Still not cool enough tho. If I use AC pulling my trailer I can still run hotter temps, plus Im only running 10-12 psi boost. Id like to see 190 with AC blowing.
Just out of curiosity, where did you get the number 190 from? Is this a personal preference, a Cummins recommendation, or something else? What do you think will happen if you run say, 210 continuously? Not disputing your number, but asking out of technical curiosity.
On your truck, isn't the A/C rad in front of the engine rad? If so, then perhaps with the A/C on, that will blow hotter air through the engine rad, although I would expect the thermostat to compensate.
Just out of curiosity, where did you get the number 190 from? Is this a personal preference, a Cummins recommendation, or something else? What do you think will happen if you run say, 210 continuously? Not disputing your number, but asking out of technical curiosity.
On your truck, isn't the A/C rad in front of the engine rad? If so, then perhaps with the A/C on, that will blow hotter air through the engine rad, although I would expect the thermostat to compensate.
The truck runs cooler than 190 empty, closer to 180. So considering what my truck has acted like for the last 1.3 million miles 190 degrees makes me happy, but thats on a flat road too. In my 1st post I noted that with the AC on, the temp started creeping up so I turned it off. Im gonna dbl check my stat is the high flow unit, if not Ill swap it. At this point it appears its a water flo issue, since the holes I drilled dropped the temp about 7-8 degrees. Also on a side note, I ran some math by a engineer buddy in the OEM brass copper vs the larger aluminum one I have now. Copper is 40% more thermally efficient than aluminum, but this big 2 row Griffin has only 25% more surface area leaving a 15% deficiency in cooling. Ive heard every song and dance from aluminum radiator companies, but the OEM copper rad is so efficient with the thin tubes etc that aluminum just isnt as good, thats my theory. How thin the tubes are is also why they plug the bottom 1/3 of the core about every 150k.
Just for the sake of it, when I get the flow sorted out, Im gonna slap a cleaned and rodded out OEM unit back in for a back to back test.
A while back I posted about my 93 W350 running hot, it easily runs 205 with no AC and 10-12 lbs boost. EGTs are 900. Ive literally replaced every cooling component as I couldnt get the truck to run cool on hot days pulling my 48ft trailer. I replaced the radiator with a Griffin 2.5 inch dual core radiator, water pump, fan clutch, t-stat, hoses, added a aux cooler in the heater hoses, power washed IC and condenser. Im getting 48 degree temp drop across radiator sitting still, Soooo.
I assume those numbers are with your trailer on but if you are running 10-12 # boost and 900 on your egts constantly you are pushing that truck hard, I mean really hard, I can see those numbers from a stop to get to speed but once at speed no more than 5 or 600 egts and 5 on boost. Personally, I would get a bigger truck to pull that trailer
I assume those numbers are with your trailer on but if you are running 10-12 # boost and 900 on your egts constantly you are pushing that truck hard, I mean really hard, I can see those numbers from a stop to get to speed but once at speed no more than 5 or 600 egts and 5 on boost. Personally, I would get a bigger truck to pull that trailer
That is pulling a trailer at 24,500lbs. I put a flowkooler water pump on and it works really good now. Dropped 15+ degrees.
07-14-2024, 07:17 PM
