Just NO, NO and NO... that lift pump will blow the front seal out of your IP and fill your pan with diesel.. ask Edwin. They make a HVLP pump for our rigs that is the same type as that but it only puts out about 15 psi which the seal will handle.
https://www.thehungrydiesel.com/product.sc?productId=15
Is there a sock on the fuel pickup in the tank? if so it may be plugged with gunk and need cleaned .... another thing you can do is pressurize the tank with about 8 to 10 lbs of air into the filler neck and look for leaks along your hoses, then disconnect the hose from your lift pump and see if it has good flow with it pressurized

 

OK, OK, OK - understood. Thanks for pointing out the right pump. Happy with the kind I have and still not sure if that's the issue anyway. If I need to go the 9 yards and really dig into the tank, I'll do everything you've suggested. I use Stanadyne additives for lubrication and clean injectors but I'm sure that doesn't help when it comes to the entire tank.

 

A failing or inadequate lift pump will show its self by a gradual acceleration loss. It runs out of fuel supply before it hits the governor. You should have a steady pull all the way to governor defuel.

 

Currently that's not what I'm experiencing. Acceleration is only effected when I'm in 3rd or 4th and I floor it. Not exactly sure what that means but that's where I see the most lag in any potential fuel issues.

 

The first three gears on those are not really getting into your fuel supply per say as you are out of them pretty fast, but by the time you hit 4th or 5th gear you are staying in it longer and using alot more fuel. If possible hook a gauge to your fuel supply line (I like to use the bleeder port) and you will see if you are running out of fuel. Just a thought.

 

Is there an all-purpose gauge you like for this?

 

Any pressure gauge will do (I have used an old boost gauge) as it will just be a temp but the lower the numbers the better (0 to 30 works good) if it's a temp just make sure you have enough line to reach to a point you can see it while driving.. wiper arm, mirror bracket or route to the inside. Factory pressure I believe is around 7 psi at idle and if you are turned up at all it will go down to 0 or almost 0 when yo mash it., should have at least 4 lbs when cruising.

 

Having fixed my venting issue, acceleration is much smoother and more consistent - especially in higher gears. Idle is consistent now too, such that I could make a mechanical adjustment to keep it around 750-800rpm. I'm not ruling out that the work to the injector pump (new fuel pin and governor spring) could still be in play here, but today at least, we're cruising along with no issues.

 

Truck died again today with a vented cap on the tank and no apparent build up of pressure at all. I took off the cap and tried starting it but no go on that end. Symptoms slightly different this time: it wanted to start, would run for a while, but then slowly came to a stop after about 30 secs of running at about 2000rpm. This patterns happened three times. Towed it to a old timer mechanic who hopefully can figure it out. At this point I don't know what else to do.

But all of this to say it's not a venting issue, and most likely is not an electrical issue and so I'm hoping he takes apart the injector pump and finds that there was some kind of issue with how the new fuel pin and governor spring were installed because it was ONLY after these were installed did the fuel dying issue begin.

Off to drink something (anything really) right now.

 

FUEL STARVE ISSUE SOLVED!!!

After I tested air leaks (none), made sure the fuel pressure was normal, flushed the tank, cleaned the sending unit and replaced a section of fuel line that looks cracked and old, the truck still continued to fail.

Going back to the fuel solenoid system, I removed the valve, deactivating the solenoid and replaced it with a manual shut off cable. Truck hasn't failed since.

It also idles correctly, accelerates much more smoothly, and a previous issue with fluctuating voltage during startups is gone as well.

 

Thank you for posting this, so many people fix the issue and never let us know if they found the fix or not

 

Yeah, that's pretty much why I wanted to com back to the forum with the fix. Especially since this has been an issue with my truck for the past three years.

Here's the locking and you have to be careful with how the manual shut off valve is indexed and won't work if you happen to engage it when it's turned all the way to the right hand side.

Just one of several rookie mistakes I've made trying to resolve this.

 

Nice work!!! Thanks for the update!

 

After thought for educational purposes.
When I am dealing with fuel delivery issues on whatever, the first thing is install a pressure gauge, usually temporarily just laying on the dash, or on my lap in the boat.

This would have eliminated all concern for everything before the IP, as full pressure would have been indicated when the failure occurred.

Technically, I'm an engineer. My main troubleshooting tool is binary reduction. Briefly explained, you endeavor to split your field of possible faults in the middle, devising a test to establish which group fails. Then the same thing for the failing side. Theoretically a problem with 256 possible faults can be solved in 8 tests or less.