Ultimate Timbrens
#1
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Ultimate Timbrens
I was already resigned to doing at least a litle extra fitment work with these Skyjacker springs. But as usual it ended up becoming a major production. I knew I was in for a long day when I crawled under there to get started and saw the bump stops sitting up at least 20 inches above the axle. These springs look to be about a six inch lift, installed without the blocks, resulting in an actual 2" lift. Smart way to do it. Bolting the springs right down on the axle lowers torque leverage, reducing the axle wrap effect.
So anyway, here's what I did: The mounts are offset about five inches outboard the intended stock location, giving better sway stability. Four 9/16 bolts secure each one to the frame rail. The bottom stops are cups made from the tops cut off 2" pipe caps, sitting about four inches right above the spring perches. Probably exactly the difference four inch blocks would have made in a stock setup. These "cup stops" positively locate and seat the Timbrens when they come down to make contact under load. I'm running them at a half inch off the stops, unloaded. The stops were left off until after I got it loaded so they coud be welded in at exactly the right spot. I used a jack under the hitch to move it up and down while I got them positioned. Did a test ride with 48 landscaping wallstones from Lowes, probably about a half ton. The back held up 2 inches higher and it rides beautifully. I boogied through some of the back roads around here for awhile testing it with the load in there and the way it handled was just amazing. With the Skyjackers, Timbrens and sway bar I doubt you could come up with a better rear suspension setup for towing and hauling.
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_55.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_56.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_57.jpg
So anyway, here's what I did: The mounts are offset about five inches outboard the intended stock location, giving better sway stability. Four 9/16 bolts secure each one to the frame rail. The bottom stops are cups made from the tops cut off 2" pipe caps, sitting about four inches right above the spring perches. Probably exactly the difference four inch blocks would have made in a stock setup. These "cup stops" positively locate and seat the Timbrens when they come down to make contact under load. I'm running them at a half inch off the stops, unloaded. The stops were left off until after I got it loaded so they coud be welded in at exactly the right spot. I used a jack under the hitch to move it up and down while I got them positioned. Did a test ride with 48 landscaping wallstones from Lowes, probably about a half ton. The back held up 2 inches higher and it rides beautifully. I boogied through some of the back roads around here for awhile testing it with the load in there and the way it handled was just amazing. With the Skyjackers, Timbrens and sway bar I doubt you could come up with a better rear suspension setup for towing and hauling.
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_55.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_56.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_57.jpg
#2
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Oregon
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That should be a nice riding truck it sure looks nice, BTW are you ever gonna put some miles on that thing? Some day you will have over a dollar invested for every mile on the clock
#4
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Good point Al! No, my original intention with buying this truck was for it to be my last: Get a good one, fix it up how I want it and never buy another. I know, I know, never say never. But I cannot condone the way the trucks have evolved lately, what with the new EGR stuff becoming the last straw for me. I'm old school. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!
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