bigragu

Hey I got my u joints. Went with the spicers on the u joints and non spicers on the u bolt style yokes. So I am swapping out the yoke at the dana 60 front diff, the dana 70 rear diff to driveline, and finally the yoke at the transfer case to driveline. I don't know the pinion nut size for the transfer case yoke and the yoke at the front diff. Going to tackle this tomorrow and wanted to make sure I had the correct sockets. Does anyone have memory as to what those nut sizes are?

bigragu

So is it correct that yokes at the diffs are 29 spline and the yoke at the transfer case is 30 spline?

PapeCAT

I believe the yoke nuts are 1-5/16". You can find the socket at autozone or similar fairly cheap.

I believe the output 205 yoke is 32 spline?? I don't recall what the D70/60 were.

j_martin

You might be able to borrow the socket at O'Reilley's or Auto Zone.

bigragu

I believe you are correct at 32. When I was at the parts house I had a football hoodie on that has my sons high school logo on it and the lady in charge of the admin had a son that graduated there years back and the parts manager went to another school that was the arch enemy/ rival of my sons so there was either Hoo rahs going on or friendly put downs as to which school was better. With all this going on I was trying to ask my newb questions along with absorbing the answers that popped out during the friendly session of high school bashing. As it turned out, they accidentally overcharged me by an extra yoke and didn't include the cardan joint to accompany the transfer case output yoke that ties in the driveline! I was only able to score a non greasable spicer joint for the front diff, while the 1410 series joints for the dana 70 is zerked. I requested non greasable ones, and going back at 8 am today I will bring all parts back to verify if he had them or not. Hey, as far as greases go, which is a good all around grease to lube up the joints ( in case I'm stuck with the greasable kind) along with all the zerk fittings at the front end? I've been using that Lucas red stuff in the past that I get at Home Depot. Will that suffice?

bigragu

Well got back from partsmike to get credit back for the 4th yoke he didn't sell me and after snooping thru his parts catalog for spicer he did have the non greasable joints for the rear transfer case and at the rear diff! So here are part numbers should anyone want to replace their u joints to non greasable spicers: 1. Joint at dana 60 for 4x4 shaft 5-1310x 2. Joints at rear of transfer case and at the dana70 rear diff(same spicer joint) 5-1410x. The transfer case u bolt style yoke is a Taiwan end yoke part # 300488 and the yokes for the rear and front diff are listed numbers for partsmike(did not come in a box like the transfer case yoke) and if you go thru partsmike here are those #'s- D60 1310 series 716291 and D70 1410 series forged PM3-4-5711. That D70 1410 series costs the most out of the 3 yokes at $112. All in all at $415.86. Well, that is my Xmas present, instead of the fluid damper harmonic balancer I originally posted. Man this stuffs cost $$$!!! Thank the Lord I have an awsome woman! As a side note, all my buddies that I told what I got for Xmas think I need mental therapy. I'm weird they say, for wanting items for the truck- the underside of the truck!!! I'm sure you all can relate. Merry Xmas to all, and thanks a bunch to all of you in the past that have guided me with your wrenching expertise!

bigragu

Forgot to add that that final cost included u- bolt kits for the 3 yokes and 3 seals. Partsmike caters to the rock crawler builders, and I explained my driving style of commuting and the occasional hunt 2-4x a year. With that, they said if any of the yokes should snap he will replace them. The only thing I have left as far as questions on the R&R is torque values for these u- bolts, and if you all reccomend I blue loctite the threads, even if they come with lock washers

bigragu

Well got the u- bolt style yokes in on my D70 to driveline and driveline to NP205 transfer case rear output. Didn't feel like messing with replacing seals especially since I just replaced both within the last 8 months. If they decide to seep, I have the replacement seals at the ready. Ran into a flub up with the yoke replacement at the D60 to front driveline. The style of retaining clip for the new spicer u joint doesn't work with the OEM style. So short version is I need a new sliding yoke to adapt to the new yoke and new spicer 1350 style u joint. So the way it drives now after new yokes and u joints? Well it is night and day. My trike is so much quieter underneath, the clunking noises at shift is gone and every time I hit potholes everything feels solid and more quiet. The changes are so positively drastic it's sad that I let myself drive that many miles without bothering to check the u joints. It has 205K now. I got it from previous owner at 125K, and I think the stock joints were untouched then. I was good at greasing them up but was clueless as to signs of failure. I'm curious how long these new spicer greaseless joints will last me. Anyway, all feels toit. Toit like a toiga. Leaf spring bushings up next

KRB

An old post but full of my old friends so I'm resurecting it as I was searching for rear u- joint replacements.

My rear joint at the Dana 70 pumpkin appears to have one cup with some play, maybe missing a needle so I need to replace.

Bigragu I'm not looking at replacing the straps with u-bolts, just a direct replacement. But curious how you're liking them?

Is a non-greasable Spicer still the way to go? The ones on there have zerks which I grease about twice a year. If so, anybody have the part number handy? I plan to go to NAPA where I get a discount and they know what they are talking about.

Many thanks,

u2slow

Its a 1410 series driveshaft ujoint... should be all the smart guys at Napa need to know.

I'm running Moog/Precision #330 joints. Greasable and I grease them. Priced nice at Rockauto. They're lasting well through my power mods, locker, and some heavy loads.

KRB

I'm kinda partial to zerks cause I like the grease gun. All my old stuff (cars, tractors, Power Wagons) have zerks and that is what I'm used to. But I know times and knowledge change and I'm willing to change to - to some extent...

KRB

Are the Moog 330s a direct replacement?

bannerd

The biggest difference between zerk and non zerk all boils down to what you're doing with the truck/vehicle.

If you're riding on the road and hauling then non zerk u joints will work just fine. If you're driving through mud and water then you'll want a ujoint that you can put the grease too. A non greaser will not hold up in such conditions and water/ dirt will find a way into the needle bearings.

Another thing to think about is temperature. If you're plowing and pushing the D70 axle hard... things heat up and grease will break down. Older backhoe I had I went with a Chinese non zerk u joint in the hydro shaft. Thing sits three feet of the ground so it would really only see dirt/dust which the seals should keep out. Well, after a day of running the loader I had a hard vibration. The hydro was warm but the heat down the small pto shaft blew the grease right out of the ujoint seals. I guess there is a reason they make high temp grease

The nice thing about a good non zerk u joint is they can be balanced. U joints that you can put grease to will never be balanced and cause a minor vibration in the axle that you won't feel but is there. Non greasers (not china) will make things happy throughout being balanced.

KRB

Ah, good to know.

I try to stay out of the deep mud and water. My four wheeling days left with my CJ-3B. The most mud I see are rutted farm roads and creek crossings. I don't plow and the only huge loads I haul are off road at slow speeds.

Thanks

I think I'll try to sealed ones and see how it goes.

mknittle

The seals on non greasable joints are way better than the greasable ones.