When the time comes to turn up the fuel screws on my VE pump, I'm not completely sure if I can do this with out going internally. I wanted to know if its safe to run the stock fuel pin and spring and having the low boost/smoke screw turned in and the full load screw turned in. Is that all I have to do to? Just turn the screws in X amount of turns? I'm thinking that there is more to it that(IE going into the AFC, which I'm not comfortable messing with)
Any help is appreciated!
Thanks

 

The answer to your "real" question is yes...you can make adjustments to the pump without really doing any irreversable damage....
If you take your time, take a deep breath, mark everything you adjust so you know were your baseline was you'll be just fine..
I strongly recommend the guages (I didn't notice if you had any) from there do ONE mod at a time...drive it and look for new readings/behaviour/smoke etc.
Then, make the next adjustment and repeat the process...eventually you'll end up back at the beginning to fine tune all the adjustments to put the truck "in the sweet spot" for your situation.

There's lots of pictures and "how to's" out there so take your time.
In fact, there are a number of us who'll gladly take phone calls to help out as well...including me if you're inclined to make use of it...

bob...

 

If you have gauges, crank it up. My fuel screw is in all the way, my aneroid in all the way down and I had this way with a stock and aftermarket fuel pin, you wont hurt anything.

Remember more power can reduce the lifespan of parts and yes break them, so use the power properly.

 

Thanks guys,
I have gauges (pyro and boost). I just haven't installed them yet, which Im going to do before I touch the VE pump.
I did some reading last night from some directions I printed off of genosgarage.com and from what I understand this is what I have to do:

1)Mark and then turn in the smoke/low boost screw in to my liking
2) Pull the cover held on by 4 screws and mark where the AFC is. Then pull it out and turn it X amount of turns
3) Mark the full power screw on the back of the pump and turn it in to my liking
4) Adjust the idle to 750rpm afterward

Now with the AFC, from what I read, you basically are turning the fuel pin? I'm not to sure what they are talking about with that. Is it a screw you turn in under the diaphragm? Or is just turning the pin? If somebody could post or email me some pictures of what this looks like and whats involved, that would be awesome.

After I read the bulk of the instructions there was another set from a guy who said you don't need to play with the AFC deal. He only stated (or from what I read, maybe I missed something) that you turn in the smoke screw and full power screw (the screw on the backside of the pump) and adjust it to my likings and adjust the idle to 750rpm after I do this. Just doing this he said I should be at around 230hp

What I plan on doing is playing with the smoke screw and the full power screw until I'm happy. Good idea or no? I was thinking that after I did that I'd play with the AFC adjustment.

 

IMO you should do the AFC first. THere are some good pictures of it, here http://dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/Governor_Spring/ .

It is a shaft with an off-set taper ground into it, that is attached to a diaphram. Manifold pressure pushes the diaphragm against a spring, controlling the position of the shaft. The taper on the shaft controls how much fuel the pump will inject. The taper is off-set so that you can adjust the maximum fuel position. You want to pull that little shaft and diaphragm assembly out (aka AFC pin, AFC eccentric, etc. This is what the "Old Smokey Power Pin" replaces) and put it back in so that the deepest part of the offset on the taper is facing forward. You will also probably want to adjust the "star wheel" under the spring in there so that the diaphram sits flush to maybe 1/16" up before you clamp it down with the cap. Once you have made this adjustment, then you can continue adjusting with the power screw on the back of the pump.

It is very easy, and low risk. Do the AFC first, see how you like it, and take it from there.

 

Thanks for the link! It sure cleared my confusion on the AFC. It doesn't look so hard now, just mark it and turn the diaphram 1/4 turn. I looked over the pics of the diaphragm real closely and I didn't really see an indicator mark on the pump itself. Isn't there a tick or mark showing how far you've gone? Or do I just mark the diaphragm and pump for stock and then pull it out and turn it clockwise 1/4 turn and mark the deepest setting?

thanks a ton!

 

You have to make your own marks if you want to preserve the stock location. You want to set it to the deepest setting, which will likely be about 1/4 turn, but not necessarily so. Go for the deepest setting, don't worry about how far you turn it to get there.

Make sense?

 

Sort of makes sense. How do I know when I'm at the deepest setting? (Sorry for my ignorance )

 

You will be able to see which side is "deeper" into the pin when you take it out . . . So you just put that deepest part facing toward the front of the truck. When you take the AFC pin out you should cycle the throttle (engine off -- I only say this 'cause someone had a little trouble once) and make sure that the little "guide pin" pops out of the front of the AFC bore. This little pin inside the pump cover is what rides on the bigger tapered pin. The further it is allowed to come out, the more fuel the pump will deliver.

Once you get into it, things will make more sense! All you have to so is clean off the AFC, disconnect the banjo fitting (be careful with the banjo bolt and its two copper gaskets), and remove the four screws holding the cap on .

 

Ok, that computes in my head now. One thing I've seen on here a hundred times are these "banjo bolts". Call me an idiot for this one but what the hell do they look like?

 

You at the deepest setting when it stop turning. theres not a whole lot to be had by the Aneroid/no air screw without the fuel screw being cranked. Id crank em in and back it down if its to much power for you.....

 

The banjo bolt is the 12 mm one on the backside of the AFC cover. They are called banjo bolts because the fittings used to look sorta like a banjo with a really short neck and no head. They have holes drilled in them to allow boost (or fuel, oil, brake fluid - depends on the application) to pass through the bolt. You have to be careful with them because they are more fragile than you would expect a bolt that size to be.

 

Thanks for clearing that up wannadiesel

 

Take a quick look here for some pics that will help put this in perspective for you....

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/u...um&albumid=453


On a side note, and this is just my personal opinion here,,,leave the "smoke screw" alone for now...it only makes difference in the very initial throttle stage, say, for crossing the intersection...after that it's on holidays....
You can use later to tweak the initial bit of smoke in or out once you've done the other adjustments.....

pb...

 

Thanks Bushy I'll keep that in mind. I'm getting a little giddy thinking about all this new power I'm going have