edwinsmith

I just got my turbo back on after installing the 12 cm WG housing and the WH1C wheel and housing. I was able to grind down the flange on the compressor housing and use a 2-1/2 x 2 inch reducer hose to connect it to the crossover pipe. Other than the grinding the changes are reversible so I can go back to stock if I need to.

On a preliminary test yesterday, I heard a whistling sound when I got on it at WOT. The whistle only happened late toward the top of the power band, not at low RPM's. I haven't been able to check for leaks yet so my kluge may be problematic.

Can I rig some sort of cap on the turbo intake and pressureize the system to check for leaks? What can I use for a cap? Here's a pic of the coupling and also of my exhaust pipe clearance which is about 1/2 inch.

Edwin

Hemi Cat

The hose clamp on the comp outlet looks a little crooked and the hose may be kinked in that area. Reposition the hose and clamp to get better contact, and loosen up the comp hsg and reposition it for better hose alignment. The other thing is with a bigger turbo comes more whistle from more air being drawn in.

lil jim

I went to Home Depot and got a 4" to 3" rubber adapter with the metal clamps made on it. The 4" side goes on the turbo inlet, and I used a 3" cap on the other end. Next use a 1/4 " NPT tap to install a chuck for your air comp. If you would also like to know how much pressure your putting on the system, you can install a cheap pressure gauge for about 8.00$. I would have my soap handy because I get a little worried about spinning my turbo for to long without positive oil pressure. This is how I did mine, but you may be able to find a better way.


James

edwinsmith

That sounds like the way to do it. My compressor has a regulator to adjust it down and 2 gauges so I can cut it down to 20 psi or so. The hardware store probably has the rest.

Edwin

bgilbert

Hope you have a pyrometer, cause being non-intercooled you're gonna have some really high egt's with that 12cm housing. Even IC'D a 12 will get hot. I'd run the 18.5 from your stocker with that WH1C. Also you might want some kind of heat shield over your down pipe. Might burn a hole into your heater core .

wannadiesel

I gotta disagree with Bill here. With stock injectors the WHIC/12 will reduce EGT.

A heat shield isn't a bad idea, though. That's just a sound insulator but you still don't want a fire under the hood.

jleonard

Edwin,
I have double clamps on my compressor outlet...
One clamp is directly over the flange...and it has to be on a funny angle...and the second behind the flange as you have it.
I don't believe I have any major leaks...nothing using the hardware store rigged pressure tester (mostly PVC pipe) , and no unusual sounds at WOT.
I'm going to check my downpipe area, but last I looked I had no heat damage to anything.
Jay

edwinsmith

Thanks everyone. I built a rig for pressurizing the system and discovered that the angled part was leaking badly. Even with me tightening it as much as I could I couldn't stop it.

I took off the housing and did some more grinding on it so it would line up better and I also ground most of the hump down so the surface was flat all around. Then I put it back on and no more whistle.

I discovered one thing though. With ordinary worm gear clamps, I cannot tighten them enough to get my pressurizing rig to stay on. I'll need to get some of those good clamps to hold it.

On the exhaust pipe, it's not quite touching the rubber cover over the heater-A/C. If I need to I can cut a bigger hole in the rubber to keep the fire down. Doesn't seem to be a problem so far but I haven't got it cherry red yet.

Edwin

Den

You could always throw some of that header wrap around the downpipe too.

You can get Exhaust Wrap, White, 2.0 in. x 15 ft., Fiberglass Composite for less than $10. PM me if you want the vendor...don't want to break the rules posting it.

Den