Turbo Exhaust housing trick?
#1
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Turbo Exhaust housing trick?
I bought a good used HX35 locally and have been working on dismantling it for a rebuild. I've been trying to separate the exhaust housing for a couple weeks now...with not much success.
I've soaked it in PB Blaster, cycled heat with an Oxy/Acc torch, then tried more soaking with my 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone..and of course much hammering.
Anyone have a trick or two?
I've soaked it in PB Blaster, cycled heat with an Oxy/Acc torch, then tried more soaking with my 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone..and of course much hammering.
Anyone have a trick or two?
#3
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Did you remove the 4 bolts holding it to the center section? I'm sure you did, just had to throw that out there. Might just have to keep whacking at it and maybe try PB blaster or any other penetrate at the turbine blades. Some carbon could be built up and holding on good.
#6
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I just did this to mine. I clamped the exhaust housing in a vise to secure it. I then removed the two bolts opposite the oil drain and fill locations. I then backed the other two bolts part way out and used them to gain leverage to pry against the oil extrusions in the center section. Working from side to side with a pry bar, crow bar, screw driver etc. I was able to split the two sections in about 20 min. with out using heat only a little penetrating oil and some gentle persuasion.
#7
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I soaked mine in the leftover ATF after changing the trans.
I let it soak for 5 days and put 5 min of heat to it and it was off in less than a dozen firm smacks with the hammer.
Good luck!!
I let it soak for 5 days and put 5 min of heat to it and it was off in less than a dozen firm smacks with the hammer.
Good luck!!
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#8
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I found it!!
Some of you might appreciate this. Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix.......53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix.......53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
#9
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I might have to rebuild my HE351CW and was looking at this http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/f...rbo/index.html on line. I was wondering, has anyone tried to use a hydraulic press?
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