Turbo Cool Down timer: Howard's?
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Southern Oregon
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Turbo Cool Down timer: Howard's?
Hey, I saw a positive review of Howard Van Fleet's turbo cool down timer, but I can't find it for sale anywhere. Do you know where it's available? Or another good one?
Thanks
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#4
There has to be a way to make your own cool down timer for dirt cheap.
I'll need to take my Book of Electrical Schematics and integrate an adjustable clock timer with the transmissions Park-Neutral safety switch and the shut-off solenoid... Probably would only cost $10.00 worth of circuitry.
Of course, pull cables are better anyways.
I'll need to take my Book of Electrical Schematics and integrate an adjustable clock timer with the transmissions Park-Neutral safety switch and the shut-off solenoid... Probably would only cost $10.00 worth of circuitry.
Of course, pull cables are better anyways.
#5
Registered User
One of our members used a simple delay from home depot to act as a cool down timer. I can't find the post but it was a 3 wire hookup. Less than 10 bucks. Only problem with most timers is no protection in the event of engine malfunction like overheat.
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#8
Registered User
I use the Isspro Turbo Temp Monitor. It's not a timer. It uses the thermocouple you installed for your pyrometer (you have one, right?) and shuts down when the temp reaches 300*. Been very reliable and trouble free.
#9
1st Generation Admin
I run the BD cool down timer. Like above it's based on the EGT sensor. Plus ~
~ The cool down to temperature set-point is adjustable.
~ Should things not cool down by the end of ten minutes, it shuts down the engine anyway.
~ Should someone attempt to steal the heap, the first time they hit the brakes, the engine shuts down.
I've got mine wired so that it actually provides the 12v power to the pyrometer. That way I can see exactly at what temp things are being shut down.
~ The cool down to temperature set-point is adjustable.
~ Should things not cool down by the end of ten minutes, it shuts down the engine anyway.
~ Should someone attempt to steal the heap, the first time they hit the brakes, the engine shuts down.
I've got mine wired so that it actually provides the 12v power to the pyrometer. That way I can see exactly at what temp things are being shut down.
#11
1st Generation Admin
You're pretty much allowing the relatively cool, circulating oil supply to remove heat from the turbo's bearing assembly. The idea being temperatures of 400 and above will "Coke" the oil (Dino, synthetic may differ in coking temp). Said coked oil is very abrasive at best.
I toasted the stinky out of a PDR HX35 hybrid in less than 2500 miles by not letting things get down below 500*F! Ruined bearing assembly and a severely blued shaft.
A timer allows one to "Set It an Forget It", locking up and walking away from the rig. The temperature based type perhaps is more thorough in cooling to the desired 350* or below.
Hope this helps.
I toasted the stinky out of a PDR HX35 hybrid in less than 2500 miles by not letting things get down below 500*F! Ruined bearing assembly and a severely blued shaft.
A timer allows one to "Set It an Forget It", locking up and walking away from the rig. The temperature based type perhaps is more thorough in cooling to the desired 350* or below.
Hope this helps.
#12
Registered User
Sorry for replying soo late I have been swamped with school. How long does it usually take for it to reach under 400*? I let mine set for about a mineut or two would that be long enough? Thanks for the explaination
#13
Registered User
It really depends on what you've been doing just before you want to shut down. I had mine run for 10 minutes once at a rest area in the California desert. I was towing my fifth wheel and all the parts where heated up pretty well. Normally, town driving, a full minute is usually sufficient.
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