Falcon1

I looked at my turbo I think I saw a holset 17H2N Does that mean anything to anyone? Sorry I found the tag it's a H1C does anyone know anything about this turbo?

swank

uhhh, it spins real fast?

what do you want to know? and welcome aboard.

Falcon1

From the ID no. Holset tells me it's a 18cm turbo housing (factory) on the truck. I am looking at going to a 14cm after I get pyro and boost gauges. Any sugestions?

pwrtripls1

Do you have an auto or manual? 14cm with WG or without? Just trying to get a picture of what you want in the end so I dont give bad advice.

Falcon1

Auto, WG? what is WG I have seen it in alot of this forum ? And searche for filters boy alot of pros and cons on K&N BTW what is BHAF?

pwrtripls1

BHAF= big homkin air filter. WG= waist gate.

A 14cm housing with a waist gate is expencive but well worth it if you plan on getting alot of power later. The 14cm non WG is fairly cheap ($155) and works very well with stock injectors and turned up pump.

As for air filters, I like my K&N. The BHAF is just an oversized paper filter. Yes the paper filter gets more micro particals out of the air than K&N, but K&N flows more air and the tiny micro particals that get by it will take a million miles of dusty driving to do anything noticable to your engine. It would be like hand rubbing 20,000 grit sand paper on the cylinder walls over the course of decades.

Do you do alot of towing, if so how heavy? My truck has 3 times the power it had stock with just tweeking on the pump. Any mods yet?

Falcon1

I will go with a K&N also can you tell me what the difference between waist gate and non waist gate? I will most likly go with non but would still like to know the differance. After I get my gauges set up I will tweek the fuel up a turn or two.
Thanks for the help.

pwrtripls1

The onr with the WG limits boost to a set point, like 30psi max. Where the non WG will spool and keep increasing depending on the amount of fuel you have. With stock injectors you should be fine with boost. But with big injectors like the POD's you may reach more boost than the turbo or head gasket can take.

You can make a good bit of power with stock injectors and pump tweeks. If you are one of the few guys who plan on NOT trying to make 300+rwhp and just plan to tow and drive normal I recomend the 14 non WG. If in the future you want to make alot of power and make your truck a play truck then get the 14cm with the WG.

You should start with ditching that stock super restrictive muffler and cutting some holes in the air box to make it breath easier. Just strait pipe it or put in a strait thru muffler like Magnaflow. Those 2 things will drop EGT's, make it build boost and power quicker, and give a real noticeable increase in torque. Plus they need to be done before you add much fuel. Not to mention that big rig sound.

Micaiahfied

though there are some people with the K&N that are happy, thier are some who have not been very happy. the most noticable wear is on the leading edges of the turbine blades. there are some pics out there. as far as flow, the BHAF has so much surface area that ist (from what i hear) flows better than the K&N. i personnaly decided against the K&N because i am sure i wouldn't do any of the maintenence required.

Falcon1

No 300 horse here but it sounds nice, just your average joe towing a 16' boat to the sound to fish and crab. Just looking for a little performance. From what I have been reading in the forum there are some power hogs out there . Someday I may want to tow a little larger boat say a 21' but tow rig first. I did drill some 4" holes in my factory air box. I will look into that free flow muffler because I can't afford the 4" stuff yet. looks like I got a long ways to go.

pwrtripls1

I think you could advance the timing UP TO 1/8" and give the full fuel screw 2 full turns once the exhaust is done and I bet you will be very happy with that along with the 14cm housing. It should have alot better pull off the line and cruise down the highway easier. Not to mention you may see 3-4 mpg increase with the 14cm, exhaust, intake box holes, and timing advance.

You can also grind the fuel cone which is easy and move the star wheel all the way down. You can find tons of reading info on these mods in the Tech Articles at the top of the forum.

tyssniffen

As I've often pointed out here, I don't know much, so here's a simple question. (I'm not sure if going to this older post is the way I should do this, but..)

I just got my truck a couple weeks ago, and am starting to think about power and economy issues, and reading up on here.

Looking at my air filter, it looks pretty clean. Can you tell just by looking at it if it needs changing?

and, while I've figured out the K&N's are pink, mine is yellow, so I can assume it's stock?

would putting in a BHAF help at all with MPG?
Tys

wannadiesel

The stock filter will be white when clean, and gray to black when dirty. Does this yellow filter appear to be paper?

Dodge says to change the filter every 24k. You can't really tell by looking. If you want to get more scientific than that, you can buy a product called a Filter Minder and install it. It measures the restriction caused by the filter. When the piston gets sucked down into the red zone, the filter needs to be changed. This is the best way for the engine, too, because the dirtier a filter is, the better it works.

tyssniffen

I should have taken a picture of it today. Yeah, it looks like the accordian part under the mesh outer layer is paper... and it looks pretty darn clean. I'll take a photo tomorrow and get it up here.

reason I'm asking is I will be doing a lot of dusty driving, and need to get an understanding of what the filter looks like now, and when I'll need to change it.

Tys

bgilbert

If you're gonna be driving in dusty conditions, you definately not want a K&N air filter. I'd stick with a stock air filter in the filter box if under the same conditions.