Tuner distortion
#16
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Nice horns you got there. What are if you mind?
My home system Im running a Dynaco ST70, (1959) Bigg of califorinia (very rare unit)Pre-Amp with 4-telefunken 12AX7, into a set of wharfendale W90D with 4 working purple tweeters. When i got then only one tweeter worked took almost 3years to find 3 working ones. good thing is I got one spare.
My new to me truck is a stock very solid 93 146000miles not much road noise I got the infinity Kappas that I listed above with 96db rating sound great.
My old truck 93 333000k with the stans 4inch those speakers sound pretty darn Good. Better than any pioneer out their.
#18
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Hey guys, I'm a recording engineer by trade and given a choice I'd adapt and run 5.5" or 6.5" round speakers instead of 6x9" oval units. 6x9's suffer from something called "cone flexing".. Since the distance is greater on the 9" side to the voice coil than on the 6" side the cones push up unevenly on the sides which causes distortion. A good coaxial or triaxial round speaker will have better bass and smoother mids. A component system with round low-mids and separate high-mids/tweeters is even better!
just my $.02 .......
just my $.02 .......
#21
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Hey Guys,
You were correct. It's the speakers.
Can someone tell me how to install the wiring correctly ? Is there a way to determine positive & negative on both the harness to each speaker, and the speakers themselves ?
Speakers came with no instructions and no markings
One tab on the speaker is normal size, and the other is 1/2 the width, so there must be a difference between the two posts (tabs). I assume the larger is positive ?
THe wires out of the truck are different colors for each speaker, with a tracer color on each wire. When I installed my plug in kit for the stereo, I had the diagram telling me which wire was positive and negative in each respective location.... RR, LR, RF, LF
I Threw it away figuring I'd never need it. Can't hear any difference between switching the wires, but I know they make the cone react differently.
Help with this would be most appreciated.
You were correct. It's the speakers.
Can someone tell me how to install the wiring correctly ? Is there a way to determine positive & negative on both the harness to each speaker, and the speakers themselves ?
Speakers came with no instructions and no markings
One tab on the speaker is normal size, and the other is 1/2 the width, so there must be a difference between the two posts (tabs). I assume the larger is positive ?
THe wires out of the truck are different colors for each speaker, with a tracer color on each wire. When I installed my plug in kit for the stereo, I had the diagram telling me which wire was positive and negative in each respective location.... RR, LR, RF, LF
I Threw it away figuring I'd never need it. Can't hear any difference between switching the wires, but I know they make the cone react differently.
Help with this would be most appreciated.
#22
hey-Hey!!!,
I don't know what the convention with the sizes is, but you can create your own with a AA battery. rig it so you can see which way the cone moves when you hook it up. When you've got polarity such that the cone moves outwards when you tickle it, mark the terminal the positive is connected to with a red sharpie. If you do them all the same, you're going to be fine.
cheers,
Douglas
I don't know what the convention with the sizes is, but you can create your own with a AA battery. rig it so you can see which way the cone moves when you hook it up. When you've got polarity such that the cone moves outwards when you tickle it, mark the terminal the positive is connected to with a red sharpie. If you do them all the same, you're going to be fine.
cheers,
Douglas
#23
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NJT,
It doesn't really matter which way you hook up the two wires as long as you hook up all 4 the same way. Doug's advice above is solid to make sure all speakers are set up with the same polarity. Generally I look for color somewhere (red and black are generally somewhere on all the connectors, or the wires leading from the speaker connectors into the come).
I also agree with the man above about 6.5s instead of 6x9. And I wouldn't even bother with the rears, if you can get a good install in the front doors. I know most don't necessarily came about sound stage, but think of speakers like being at a concert...you face the music, you don't have it coming from behind you.
In my truck, I made adapters for the doors and installed 6.5 inch woofers. I put my tweeters up in the kick panels right below the dash. I have a 10 inch sub behind my center console. The tweets are run off the front channels, the woofers off the back channels and the subwoofer is run off an amp from the sub out. The deck does the active crossing over, so no external crossovers were necessary.
And the best part...every single piece of equipment has been through the last 3 or 4 cars I've owned. ;-)
Oh, and above you mentioned you weren't sure what 2 way or 3 way or what-have you meant.
Your standard 'coaxial' speaker has the woofer (1 way) with a tweeter mounted in front of it (2 way). Usually the cheaper brands will try and jazz this up a bit by adding other speakers into the mix. 3 way aren't that uncommon, and that just means they add another little speaker that is supposed to 'bridge the gap' between the frequency response of the tweeter and that of the woofer. Of course, this REALLY isn't necessary as some of the best speakers on the market are just 2 way speakers. Higher end 3 way setups will have a tweeter, then a 4 inch midrange and then a 6.5 inch or 8 inch woofer. But, those are usually seperates, as it's hard to squeeze all those speakers into one location. I find it funny when speakers try to cram too much stuff into themselves. Pioneer is a good one for that. I've seen them sell '5 way' speakers before, which just cracks me up. Talk about markaneering...invent something and then tell people they need it. Like Bose...or Apple. Ha.
My favorite speakers are made by Focal, which are generally an expensive brand. Their 'Utopia' series speakers are pretty much the best car stereo speakers ever made...and also the most expensive (in the thousands for a pair). But their entry level 'Access' speakers are my favorite. I have been moving around a pair of 6.5s for years now...and they still knock my socks off whenever I hear them.
It doesn't really matter which way you hook up the two wires as long as you hook up all 4 the same way. Doug's advice above is solid to make sure all speakers are set up with the same polarity. Generally I look for color somewhere (red and black are generally somewhere on all the connectors, or the wires leading from the speaker connectors into the come).
I also agree with the man above about 6.5s instead of 6x9. And I wouldn't even bother with the rears, if you can get a good install in the front doors. I know most don't necessarily came about sound stage, but think of speakers like being at a concert...you face the music, you don't have it coming from behind you.
In my truck, I made adapters for the doors and installed 6.5 inch woofers. I put my tweeters up in the kick panels right below the dash. I have a 10 inch sub behind my center console. The tweets are run off the front channels, the woofers off the back channels and the subwoofer is run off an amp from the sub out. The deck does the active crossing over, so no external crossovers were necessary.
And the best part...every single piece of equipment has been through the last 3 or 4 cars I've owned. ;-)
Oh, and above you mentioned you weren't sure what 2 way or 3 way or what-have you meant.
Your standard 'coaxial' speaker has the woofer (1 way) with a tweeter mounted in front of it (2 way). Usually the cheaper brands will try and jazz this up a bit by adding other speakers into the mix. 3 way aren't that uncommon, and that just means they add another little speaker that is supposed to 'bridge the gap' between the frequency response of the tweeter and that of the woofer. Of course, this REALLY isn't necessary as some of the best speakers on the market are just 2 way speakers. Higher end 3 way setups will have a tweeter, then a 4 inch midrange and then a 6.5 inch or 8 inch woofer. But, those are usually seperates, as it's hard to squeeze all those speakers into one location. I find it funny when speakers try to cram too much stuff into themselves. Pioneer is a good one for that. I've seen them sell '5 way' speakers before, which just cracks me up. Talk about markaneering...invent something and then tell people they need it. Like Bose...or Apple. Ha.
My favorite speakers are made by Focal, which are generally an expensive brand. Their 'Utopia' series speakers are pretty much the best car stereo speakers ever made...and also the most expensive (in the thousands for a pair). But their entry level 'Access' speakers are my favorite. I have been moving around a pair of 6.5s for years now...and they still knock my socks off whenever I hear them.
#24
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when you hook up the head unit, if you use the aftermarket harness adapter. You can match the wires up and you'll be able to tell which is + and which is - . the harness adapter wires are always labeled like "left speaker positive", in the black plug if you match those up with the factory wire colors you can write them down and track them to the doors. Just to be safe.
#25
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Thanks.. I'll try the 9v battery thingy..
I installed the stereo months ago. The wires are all marked.... in the dash with the aftermarket adapter kit so it's a plug and play. I was just hoping of a way to determine positive feed @ the speakers themselves, so I didn't have to dismantle the dash again. Really wasn't wanting to do that all over...
If I take an Ohm Meter, would that tell me the pos. vs. Neg of the feed wires to the speakers ? That way after I determine positive on each speaker, I could put them all the same.
I installed the stereo months ago. The wires are all marked.... in the dash with the aftermarket adapter kit so it's a plug and play. I was just hoping of a way to determine positive feed @ the speakers themselves, so I didn't have to dismantle the dash again. Really wasn't wanting to do that all over...
If I take an Ohm Meter, would that tell me the pos. vs. Neg of the feed wires to the speakers ? That way after I determine positive on each speaker, I could put them all the same.
#26
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Usually the factory wire will have a black line on one, or a white line, or whatever, and it'll be the same for each (brown and brown with line for one speaker, purple and purple with line for another, etc...)
#28
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Hey Guys,
You were correct. It's the speakers.
Can someone tell me how to install the wiring correctly ? Is there a way to determine positive & negative on both the harness to each speaker, and the speakers themselves ?
Speakers came with no instructions and no markings
One tab on the speaker is normal size, and the other is 1/2 the width, so there must be a difference between the two posts (tabs). I assume the larger is positive ?
THe wires out of the truck are different colors for each speaker, with a tracer color on each wire. When I installed my plug in kit for the stereo, I had the diagram telling me which wire was positive and negative in each respective location.... RR, LR, RF, LF
I Threw it away figuring I'd never need it. Can't hear any difference between switching the wires, but I know they make the cone react differently.
Help with this would be most appreciated.
You were correct. It's the speakers.
Can someone tell me how to install the wiring correctly ? Is there a way to determine positive & negative on both the harness to each speaker, and the speakers themselves ?
Speakers came with no instructions and no markings
One tab on the speaker is normal size, and the other is 1/2 the width, so there must be a difference between the two posts (tabs). I assume the larger is positive ?
THe wires out of the truck are different colors for each speaker, with a tracer color on each wire. When I installed my plug in kit for the stereo, I had the diagram telling me which wire was positive and negative in each respective location.... RR, LR, RF, LF
I Threw it away figuring I'd never need it. Can't hear any difference between switching the wires, but I know they make the cone react differently.
Help with this would be most appreciated.
Large spade is +
small spade is -
#29
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No,
The back has 4x10's
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details
Fronts are 6x9's
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details
These units sound sweet. Got all 4 for the price of a single pair. Amazing how good they sound, even though I cheaped out.... Clear and clean sound.
Waiting on the fronts to be delivered.
And THANKS GUYS ! for all your help. Good to see you posting, Bob. Wondered what happened to you...
The back has 4x10's
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details
Fronts are 6x9's
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details
These units sound sweet. Got all 4 for the price of a single pair. Amazing how good they sound, even though I cheaped out.... Clear and clean sound.
Waiting on the fronts to be delivered.
And THANKS GUYS ! for all your help. Good to see you posting, Bob. Wondered what happened to you...
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