jimbo486

I understand what you're getting at. It does get burnt but just pointing out the fact that some of us run 2-cycle oil in our fuel system. I'd also like to assume that it would have be labeled as a recycled oil if that is the case.

The process of recycling oil, however, has become very intricate and it seems to turn out well. I think the biggest argument used is that the process uses far less energy to recycle since it's not put through the same refining process as crude is. I wouldn't want to run recycled oil though.

cmann250

I read the left over Super Tech ATF jug I had, it said nothing about being recycled, and a Google search turned up nothing either. I can't find anything definitive either way. I suppose you get what you pay for

deanhinsley1963

Jim I thinkyour on the right track. I would drain and flush,replace filter,do the band adjustments and go from there. That fluid was spooky looking though. But I would give it a shot. Might save you some Dinero or at least give you some time.

KRB

I got mine from Summit. Don't remember the model but I do remember that the inlet & outlet needed to be bigger than most so not to restrict the flow. From memory I think it was larger than 1/2"? I used hydraulic lines to reroute and put the fan switch in the OD kick out spot with a "T".

j_martin

I get a kick out of this. Run what's basically a beefed up automobile automatic transmission behind a slow turning high torque diesel, maybe load it with big tires, and pull ten tons or more with it, then blame the fluid when it craps out.


Actually, even in high performance outboards, the SuperTech TCW3 oil is as good as any, better than some. Not rated for DI, of course, but the old iron does fine on it.

jimbo486

That's why I asked 'cause I've run a couple of gallons of the SuperTech TC-W3 through my system (still have another gallon on the shelf) over a period of time at a ratio of 1oz:1gal, 30oz:30gals. Actually, I would just add an even quart. While the amounts may not have turned out precise, it ran just fine .

deanhinsley1963

Jim whats the progress on this?

Jim Lane

Unfortunately I have not had any time to work on my truck yet, I have a new filter, gasket and 5-gallons of Shell Spirax Transmission Fluid, http://www-static.shell.com/static/u...d_md3_flyr.pdf I am going to disconnect the lines at the cooler and flush the system using the new fluid but only after I get the pressure readings for a before and after comparison.

While the pan is off to replace the filter I am going to adjust the bands but I first have to find my inch/pound torque wrench.

Funniest thing is the truck still drives and shifts fine and will only slip for a few blocks then run the rest of the day and night as if nothing was wrong.

It did the same thing last time it started slipping, I had it serviced and then it started working fine and then I forgot about it for the last 42,000 miles.

I am hoping that once I have it filled with new Spirax it will clean out all of the debris from insides of the system where it can be caught by the new filter.

I still have to replace my leaking under bed cooler with a new unit and replace all of the hose that connects them to the transmission, at this time I am going to install a spin on filter at the cooler to help keep it clean.


BTW does anyone have a picture designating the Pressure Test Ports on my A-727 transmission?

Jim

samiam4

Jim,

If you want the line pressure- it is the one closes to the tailshaft/OD housing.
It's strange to me to see so much metal and debris in these dodges. I can tell you, most transmissions I see almost zero debris at changes. Just newer fluid is redder.

deanhinsley1963

Jim any updates? Would like to know if it was saveable.

Jim Lane

Ok so last week I was finally able to flush the transmission, I actually pumped 6 gallons of ATF through this thing until it was clear enough for my liking, I still need to drop the pan and replace the filter, adjust the bands and drop a few rare earth magnets into the pan.

Here is where i disconnected the lines from the front cooler, I connected to both of them so I could determine which one was the pressure side, it turns out to be the top line feeds the cooler.



Then once I found a container sufficient to hold the old ATF I had my wife start the truck and put the transmission in neutral and use the internal pump to drain the transmission.



I let it pump out until the pan was almost empty and then I started my pump and kept the trans filling through the dipstick then I would repeat the cycle of starting the engine and pump out the old ATF until it started to come out clean, this actually took quite awhile.



After about 3 gallons it still didn't look like it was getting any cleaner, and I am running out of places to put the old ATF.



So after gallon #4 it is starting to look better.



After about 6 gallons (24 quarts) it was about as good as it gets without wasting ATF so I called it good.



Any of the remaining ATF I am going to filter it and use it as good.



Now it was just a matter of disconnecting all of the hoses and reconnecting the coolers which I had previously used the pump and flushed till it come out clean.

I am going to install my external filter and that should clean up the fluid after it runs a bit.

After I got it all back together I went for a ride, crazy this it will slip only the first thing when you put it in Drive and only one time, then it will shift normally the rest of the day.

But if I park it for 4-8 hours during the day and go to leave it will not slip, only the first thing in the morning, seems like the fluid is draining back from the converter when it sits overnight.

I have a service manual for the transmission and it explains how to use air to test the functions of the servos and clutches for engagement.

The RPM's feel the same so I don't think my converter is slipping any more than usual.

But anyhow I am about 3 weeks since I thought my transmission was toast and here it is still working, Torqueflights are a pretty strong transmission.

Now I need to ask anyone who has replaced the hoses on their under-bed Axillary Cooler, what kind of hose did you use?
The guys at Hose Man had no clue and wanted to sell me Hydraulic hose for Allison Transmissions at $16.00 per foot, I need 25 feet.

But checking around I find 5/6" and 3/8" hose is plentiful but 1/2" gets a bit harder to find.

Till I went to Orileys about a block from my house and after searching HIS computer I found they could get TOC hose but they only had 1/2" in Hayden brand, and it also has a Lifetime Warranty so I hope it is good stuff but it only comes in a 1/2" X 12 foot roll.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0924&ppt=C0222

The thermal bypass is close to the transmission so I can use this to make my connection to the second roll of hose.


Jim

bobva

Jim

Looks good.

tubing http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metal-tubing/=g7r9cc

mag-filter http://magnefinefilters.com/?gclid=C...FQ8yhwodNRFHKw

DodgeFreak

our napa sells hyd. hose, what size do you need? 1\2"? how much of it?

sootnsmoke

Seems like it may be a better idea to use the inline Magnefine filter rather than just dropping rare earth magnets in the bottom of the trans pan. Because it is inline, all fluid passes through consistently. However, it appears there is also some secondary filter media in the Magnefine filters but I could not find any detail on that. Did not see a dimension or size of the inline filter listed. My concern is that if the size of the inline filter is fairly small and there is secondary media in there aside from magnets, it may clog much quicker than a pan filter and restrict flow sooner. Anyone have any additional info on the Magnefine for inline trans filtration or used them on a 727?

bobva

Magnefine inside veiw


http://www.emergingent.com/Images/Filter_with_text.gif

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbPM0hW9DmQ