grandpa ralph

About 45 mins of driving around town and freeway 70mph up and down hills---EMPTY: 190-205.

At 190, I stopped and checked fluid in neutral-bubbles on the dipstick.

Idled in neutral for 10 mins: only dropped 5 degrees.

The sensor is in the pipe replacing the OD kickout switch.

It was only 85 degrees today.

ugh.

Ace

That's not that bad. My Getrag used to be worse than that driving around unloaded in 5th gear on a hot day before I installed some elaborate cooling enhancements. Hit 230 in it once. The 1st gen autos normally generate alot more heat. The fact that it only dropped 5 degrees after a rest just means it's running where it wants to be. I wouldn't start worrying about it until after 220.

grandpa ralph

Ace,
Thanks. Makes sense about it running where it wants to.

Isn't 220 where the fluid starts to be affected?
That only gives me about 20-30 degrees of room for a full load in the bed and/or the little trailer.
Summers around here run 95-110 degrees.

Headed north on I-5 tomorrow, see how it does on the grapevine.

Ace

It's hard to say at exactly what point the fluid will become degraded from heat stress. Synthetics will take more heat. The important thing is that it runs stabilized over time somewhere below 220 for your application. If not, you need more heat control and/or synthetic lubricant. I don't know what your're running, but the ATF+4 is pretty stable. Always change DexIII as soon as possible after an overheat episode. It won't hold up very well.

grandpa ralph

Ace,
More good info- Thanks.

It's Dex III.

When I get back, I'll start thinking about under bed fan cooler/heat exchanger(multipler) bypass.

SMKHZRD

I got up to 250 up a hill towing some quads and camping stuff...but think that was because my tc was slipping real bad got a new gorend one and doesnt go over 190...

RollinCoalSmoke

grandpa ralph a cheap upgrade for me was a heavy equipment cooler off of some kinda machinery. The cooler I found was 26'' x 30'' and had a 5/8'' line in it. It was a hydralic cooler of some sort they had pulled off but had a little hole in the line. I brazed the line up and was good to go. Check out the machinery repair places and the big truck wrecking yard and you might find a repairable cooler. The one I found the clamp that held it on rubbed a hole in it and they just replaced it due to the long labors hours to get to it. $20.00 at a repair place-cheap. Good luck with it.

brainfade

Don't forget as well that if you still have the oil/water cooler in the system that the engine coolant will tend to hold the transmission oil to whatever the engine is running.

apwatson50

That is about what my auto runs for temp, probe is in same location. Have my B&M cooler mounted, just have to plumb and wire it now.