schamran

Alright, I wanna build some traction bars, and I'm thinking a single-bar, two-link design for simplicity. Do I want heims or johnny joints? What size tubing? I don't sled pull, or plan to. No extreme launches, but I want to be prepared for the future when I do build my truck up some more. Also, are the bars supposed to be parallel to the driveshaft? Thanks!

Lucas1

well i figure if your going to single traction bar it its worth it.
anymore (ie two parrallel links) just 4 link the rear

ive built link set ups for wheelers. and i have found your better to cheap out on tubbing then hiems/rod ends .

either do it super budget with bushings and pipe/square tubbing or buy the good stuff. evolution machine ends and 3/8" dom

if you use budget hiems they WILL rattle and get sloppy quick and the noise will drive you bonkers,ask me how i know

schamran

3/8"? Is that the wall? What's the OD/ID?

Lucas1

3/8 is the wall. you can get it in 1.75 1.5" or 2" and can be mandrel bent for clearance if braced

jimbo486

I've been thinking about some traction bars as well. After I removed the flatbed and before installing a dually bed, I drove my truck around as the cab and chassis it was from the factory. Pulling away from my house in 1st gear, I watched the pinion move a bit and I wasn't even touching the throttle.

How are some of you attaching the bars to the axle? Under the springs, just inside the springs or what?

jstone44720

Look at Lazar Smith for the traction bars. They have a good reputation and support the forum. LazarSmith's site might also provide some good ideas for a diy setup if you want to go that route. Caltracs also have some good reviews, but I am not really sold on how they anchor the front of the bar.

schamran

Jimbo: I was going to weld tabs to the bracket below the leafs, or get slightly longer u-bolts and bolt another bracket below the shock mount.

Thanks Jstone. I was looking at that website last night. A lot of great ideas!

bgilbert

If you're not sled pulling I wouldn't worry about it. 1300+ftlbs here and my D70 is still alive.

Douglas2

Bill, I have( and will likely continue to have) a mostly stock engine in my heap. I still think some means of dealing with spring wrap is a good idea, and ladder/traction bars seem a fine idea. No more wheel hop is a fine thing...
cheers,
Douglas

JAyers

Mine needs some bars...its a hard to keep on the road between the steering and the d70 walking all over the place. If you have leaf springs and rear blocks, at any hp, traction bars are a good idea.

crossy

just replying mainly to stay in touch with this thread would like some kinda blueprint or pics Lucas,
anyway @Bill- i hear ya, but Sons truck is a lifted 4x4 and i have watched his pinion move a lot also- PLUS he's a kid and likes the look of em like stacks or anything else so having been a young hotrodder ONCE or TWICE in my life i can respect that. I'm more intersted in a smooth ride and a heated steering wheel now though. lol
I have fab skills so i'm interested. I'm sure S&W or any respectable race car shop can provide me with the tubing your talking about. What are jonny ends though?
crossy

440_D50

These are johhny joints


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Mine had these mounted to the axle tube


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Then the 2 bars came up together and met into one pivot mounted to the frame


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Way stronger than mounting it to the bottom plate and looks way tougher than a single bar setup. Do it yourself for less than 300 bucks

92smokin blacky

You've probably seen both of my setups randy. I think my ladder bar style bars with ayou shackle mount worked ok but I went with a longer single bar setup for pulling. I think they worked a little better and are solidly mounted. They did the job great, my truck never hopped and it ran smooth. I can post pics of my setups on here but they should be on here somewhere if ya search.

I think they are a good idea even on a stock truck especially a manual. I have two buddys with manuals behind their cummins and the whole truck feels like its flexing under power until they press the clutch in then everything springs back out. Definitely not hard to make and are worth doing in my opinion.

They do make things ride a little rougher unless the truck is loaded or weighted down. I have 3/4"tractor 3 point ends for my heims and the do clank, but they are strong and for 1/4 of the price of the rubber ones I figured I could handle the annoyance.