The_Head

I think a 100% convertor means it is locked up, so our non lockup TC's can't quite get there.

heh heh, I have a 5th wheel camper as well. It's a 1994 Skyline Nomad 2515 Limited. It's about 26' long.

I think its actually a little lighter than my parent's Shasta 25' travel trailer. I think it will tow easier than theirs.

I towed theirs up the mountain on a couple weeks ago to test my EGT's and I worked the trans kind of hard. I have that Double Deep (+4 quarts) pan from mag-hytech on mine and I think it does quite a bit to keep the trans fluid cooler.

'Mad Max'

the 91% clams are pretty much for the racers that have a LOT of power - sled pullers, draggers, etc. The 89% is what I have in both my '93s and they 'feel' like a lock-up while still allowing some spool. The 89% gig in my tug boat is getting over 300hp/620tq to the tires, and pulls 10k+ no sweat.
- Sam

Firstgenfanatic

Sam, sounds like 89% is the golden ticket for the usual everyday folks like us. I don't drag race or sled pull, so I think anything better than stock will really surprise me. Here's a question: Correct me if I'm wrong, I heard that a518 stock torque converter only transfers 60% of the power produced at the engine's flywheel. ???? Is this true? I have been told many times that Dodge made a "sloppy" converter to offset the power of the Cummins B5.9.

'Mad Max'

that is exactly correct - 60% is right about how the factory clams are built. As I understand, Mopar wanted to introduce the 6BTs in '85 but the tranny's weren't up to the task until ~'89, and at that time they didn't have a strong enough overdrive, hence the D61 and D71 with the 3.07 gears - that's about as good as the technology was at that time. As well, the engines...as we're all aware...are capable of making a LOT more power than the factory rated 130hp/400tq, but they were set at the lower power levels to prevent cooking the tranny's - literally.
Heat...it's all about heat, both in the engine and the tranny.
- Sam

Firstgenfanatic

Man! 60% is just horrible. no wonder the auto's are dogs. Yup! It's converter time!

peobryant

60% was from the factory. Just think of what age has done to it.

Boatnik

I was just rereading the posts and had this thought. Don't forget to upgrade the flexplate when you decide to do the T/C and tranny. The stock flex plate is weak. I am running a second gen. flexplate and so far so good.

'Mad Max'

I've been thinking the same thing - I should have done a flexplate when I did the recent clam swap. I guess I'll likely wait until I have to pull the tranny back out.....or until the plate cracks in half....which occurs first ....

Jet100

I thought the stock Tq converter was like 70 percent.... Either way not to good. I didn't replace the flexplate either. Oh well. It'll break or it won't.

Firstgenfanatic

I have heard of guys running the factory 2nd gen flexplates............I've also heard people say they do not fit 1st gens........others say they do with no mods. Whats the scoop on this? I have heard about the 2nd gen auto flex plates being much better in construction.

apwatson50

They do fit, i've used one, but the next new thing is to use a 6.7L flex plate. It looks to be just about solid, and only ~$120 from dodge!

KRB

$120 sounds reasonable. How much were the 2nd gens costing? Is this something that can be got from a junkyard or better off bought brand new?

Tuckerdee

Cosmetically, they're the same. You'ld be hard-pressed to tell the difference at first glance. But the 2nd Gen flexplate is stronger. I'm running a 2nd gen flexplate with no mods to the bellhousing or torque converter area. It bolts right up.

apwatson50

2nd gens are about the same, doubt you'll find one at a junk yard, for the price you might as well get a new one anyways.