Towing with a stock A518 automatic
02-28-2009, 12:18 PM
#16
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I can't remember when exactly but, (It's been two years I think) I opt'd for a DTT torque converter and shift kit. The torque converter is 89% and performs nicely while towing 11,000 pounds. The shift kit boosted the pump pressure to 75#,s and with the beefer hardware and springs I have enjoyed a trouble free transmission so far. And that is with the same friction material (bands) that were in the truck when I bought it. I have the stock radiator, coolers, fan, water pump and thermostat. I"ve tried running with the "big dogs" on the interstate but the truck just isn't going to do it. Sixty five mph is enough in the winter and I can do that in the summer if I watch my gauges closely. I think the stock radiator is slightly over designed for the stock application, but inadequate when you start dumping 250+ horses into the tranny on a long grade pulling a full load. For the long haul the A518 has served me well. I have been running Amsoil Universal synthetic fluid and Lucas Tranny treatment in it since I had the new torque converter installed and I feel that has helped. The last fluid change I did, I found very little debris in the pan and no metal except on the normal fuzz on the magnet.
Sounds like you are pretty happy with your torque converter and the A518 in general. The main thing for me is occasional towing, most of the time the pickup runs empty. I don't plan to sled pull or drag race the truck. All I'm asking for is a reliable rig that will easily tow my 23ft 5th wheeler @ 60-65mph. If I can get it to do that without pushing the limits of the transmission.......I'm a happy camper.
02-28-2009, 12:21 PM
#17
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A tighter converter is really the best thing you can do to lower the temps.
The stock torque converter does a really good job of converting torque to heat.
The stock torque converter does a really good job of converting torque to heat.
02-28-2009, 01:28 PM
#22
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Firstgen,I want to chime in here. As far as the 518 goes you definetly need to upgrade to tow and do any HP increases. My suggestion is to call Dave Goerend in Iowa and tell him what you want to do. He is a great guy and will walk you through whatever you are trying to do.You really need to upgrade TQ ,flex plate and valve body. I personally went with a 47RH which is the way to go in spite of what Crossy's Son says. I tow a 25 ft. TT which weighs in at about 6,500 - 7,000. Just give Dave a call and see what he suggests. He can even build your trans for you,but i don't know what the cost would be. That is up to you and him.I have a Dunrite TQ from a heavy motor home application and some Goerend internal components,and a friend of mine did some other tweaks and i love the lok-up feature. You know what your budget is so these are my suggestions. I have an 85 D-350 crew cab conversion and so far all is working great. My engine is stock at this time with the stock trans cooler which i am going to upgrade also. I have pulled with it all over North Carolina,West Virginia,Pennsylvania and New York with no problems. Good luck
03-01-2009, 09:13 PM
#23
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Firstgen,I want to chime in here. As far as the 518 goes you definetly need to upgrade to tow and do any HP increases. My suggestion is to call Dave Goerend in Iowa and tell him what you want to do. He is a great guy and will walk you through whatever you are trying to do.You really need to upgrade TQ ,flex plate and valve body. I personally went with a 47RH which is the way to go in spite of what Crossy's Son says. I tow a 25 ft. TT which weighs in at about 6,500 - 7,000. Just give Dave a call and see what he suggests. He can even build your trans for you,but i don't know what the cost would be. That is up to you and him.I have a Dunrite TQ from a heavy motor home application and some Goerend internal components,and a friend of mine did some other tweaks and i love the lok-up feature. You know what your budget is so these are my suggestions. I have an 85 D-350 crew cab conversion and so far all is working great. My engine is stock at this time with the stock trans cooler which i am going to upgrade also. I have pulled with it all over North Carolina,West Virginia,Pennsylvania and New York with no problems. Good luck
Thanks for the response! Yes, I definitely want to upgrade the torque converter. Most people who have upgraded from the stock converter had experienced a whole new truck feel afterwards. I'm really hoping this holds true. I really love my 1st gen.........but it never fails to disappoint me when towing with the stock equipment. Like others on here, I have the "all-so-common question": (do a complete rebuild or just throw in a new converter). My transmission has 204K with no issues. Thanks for directing me toward Goerend.
03-01-2009, 10:09 PM
#24
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fellas, like has been said, the converter is everything. Without a good one all the power in the world is moot. I'm a big DTT fan (theirs was the first converter I got and I've stuck with them), and I've got their towing/89% 1st gen converter in both my '93 and my '78. Fantastic stuff.
The '93 is a full on tug boat- lots of fuel, turbo, 14cm collar, ATS manifold and of course our own ASA 4" Intake, downpipe and exhaust. The truck will very confidently haul 10,000 lbs of trailer and Ramcharger up and over the Rockies without issue. Granted the very steep stuff I'll disengage the o/d and cruise at 40 mph, 22 lbs boost, and 1200* on the pyro, cruising right up towards Eisenhour tunnel - no sweat. The tranny is otherwise stock and I am very careful when engaging/disengaging the o/d - never under big boost. Flat and level it'll cruise-control at the speed limit.
The Ramcharger is another story. It is a trail-ready rock crawler that'll cruise at 75 mph no problem. It has a D60/70 driveline with 3.54 gears, and 36" tires. It has the same converter as is in the '93, and it has the same benefits. The converter 100% improved how it drives especially above 50 mph. I just did a HX-35/12cm on it and it loves it.
I've long preached that the first and best upgrade for the 1st gen auto's is a good converter - either the DTT, Goerends, or Suncoast - all have had great reports.
- Sam
The '93 is a full on tug boat- lots of fuel, turbo, 14cm collar, ATS manifold and of course our own ASA 4" Intake, downpipe and exhaust. The truck will very confidently haul 10,000 lbs of trailer and Ramcharger up and over the Rockies without issue. Granted the very steep stuff I'll disengage the o/d and cruise at 40 mph, 22 lbs boost, and 1200* on the pyro, cruising right up towards Eisenhour tunnel - no sweat. The tranny is otherwise stock and I am very careful when engaging/disengaging the o/d - never under big boost. Flat and level it'll cruise-control at the speed limit.
The Ramcharger is another story. It is a trail-ready rock crawler that'll cruise at 75 mph no problem. It has a D60/70 driveline with 3.54 gears, and 36" tires. It has the same converter as is in the '93, and it has the same benefits. The converter 100% improved how it drives especially above 50 mph. I just did a HX-35/12cm on it and it loves it.
I've long preached that the first and best upgrade for the 1st gen auto's is a good converter - either the DTT, Goerends, or Suncoast - all have had great reports.
- Sam
03-01-2009, 11:50 PM
#25
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fellas, like has been said, the converter is everything. Without a good one all the power in the world is moot. I'm a big DTT fan (theirs was the first converter I got and I've stuck with them), and I've got their towing/89% 1st gen converter in both my '93 and my '78. Fantastic stuff.
The '93 is a full on tug boat- lots of fuel, turbo, 14cm collar, ATS manifold and of course our own ASA 4" Intake, downpipe and exhaust. The truck will very confidently haul 10,000 lbs of trailer and Ramcharger up and over the Rockies without issue. Granted the very steep stuff I'll disengage the o/d and cruise at 40 mph, 22 lbs boost, and 1200* on the pyro, cruising right up towards Eisenhour tunnel - no sweat. The tranny is otherwise stock and I am very careful when engaging/disengaging the o/d - never under big boost. Flat and level it'll cruise-control at the speed limit.
The Ramcharger is another story. It is a trail-ready rock crawler that'll cruise at 75 mph no problem. It has a D60/70 driveline with 3.54 gears, and 36" tires. It has the same converter as is in the '93, and it has the same benefits. The converter 100% improved how it drives especially above 50 mph. I just did a HX-35/12cm on it and it loves it.
I've long preached that the first and best upgrade for the 1st gen auto's is a good converter - either the DTT, Goerends, or Suncoast - all have had great reports.
- Sam
The '93 is a full on tug boat- lots of fuel, turbo, 14cm collar, ATS manifold and of course our own ASA 4" Intake, downpipe and exhaust. The truck will very confidently haul 10,000 lbs of trailer and Ramcharger up and over the Rockies without issue. Granted the very steep stuff I'll disengage the o/d and cruise at 40 mph, 22 lbs boost, and 1200* on the pyro, cruising right up towards Eisenhour tunnel - no sweat. The tranny is otherwise stock and I am very careful when engaging/disengaging the o/d - never under big boost. Flat and level it'll cruise-control at the speed limit.
The Ramcharger is another story. It is a trail-ready rock crawler that'll cruise at 75 mph no problem. It has a D60/70 driveline with 3.54 gears, and 36" tires. It has the same converter as is in the '93, and it has the same benefits. The converter 100% improved how it drives especially above 50 mph. I just did a HX-35/12cm on it and it loves it.
I've long preached that the first and best upgrade for the 1st gen auto's is a good converter - either the DTT, Goerends, or Suncoast - all have had great reports.
- Sam
The reason I ask is because most people recommend that I rebuild my tranny when I install the converter, but I don't know if 180K easy miles and a very smooth shifting trans needs a rebuild... One less thing to worry about I guess, but I am just curious as to what you did.
Thanks
03-01-2009, 11:55 PM
#26
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to rebuild or not to rebuild, that is the question
How many miles were on the '93 when you installed the converter? When you installed it, did you do a full rebuild, or just install the converter and go?
The reason I ask is because most people recommend that I rebuild my tranny when I install the converter, but I don't know if 180K easy miles and a very smooth shifting trans needs a rebuild...
The reason I ask is because most people recommend that I rebuild my tranny when I install the converter, but I don't know if 180K easy miles and a very smooth shifting trans needs a rebuild...
03-02-2009, 12:30 AM
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well, I've actually done 3 trannys - all '93 518s, from 3 different trucks. The first was my first '93 which I got at 207k bone stock miles - going strong. I did a TCI converter from Summit in that truck and that did make a nice difference - not as good as the big dawg DTT, Goerends or Suncoast clams but good nonetheless. Towed better than stock, and I thought it was great until that truck got wrecked and I replaced it with another 93 with only 93k on the odo, and that truck got an 89% DTT clam, and that truck feels almost like a lock-up system - it's that good. The RCs driveline came from a wrecked donor truck with 137k unknown miles on the clock so it got a rebuild just to be safe, including a shift kit w/ valvebody, and a DTT converter. Considering the truck's weight, gearing, and tire size, it's actually 'fast', and pulls hard.
If your tranny has been well maintained, fluid looks nice and red and doesn't smell burnt I personally wouldn't worry about 180k. A good converter will reduce the heat a lot in the tranny and that's good, but it will also 'ask' more from the engine, meaning the converter will engage nice and hard and you'll be 'all-motor'....and that's good. That gains lower rpm's and the turbo will load nice and hard - it's nice, and the fuel/turbo upgrades will then be realized fully.
The sooner you do the converter the sooner the tranny will be singing the happily-ever-after song.
Oh, I should also mention that after you do the converter...umm you'll soon be surfing for injectors...turbos...housings...blah blah blah
- S
If your tranny has been well maintained, fluid looks nice and red and doesn't smell burnt I personally wouldn't worry about 180k. A good converter will reduce the heat a lot in the tranny and that's good, but it will also 'ask' more from the engine, meaning the converter will engage nice and hard and you'll be 'all-motor'....and that's good. That gains lower rpm's and the turbo will load nice and hard - it's nice, and the fuel/turbo upgrades will then be realized fully.
The sooner you do the converter the sooner the tranny will be singing the happily-ever-after song.
Oh, I should also mention that after you do the converter...umm you'll soon be surfing for injectors...turbos...housings...blah blah blah
- S
03-02-2009, 01:32 AM
#28
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well, I've actually done 3 trannys - all '93 518s, from 3 different trucks. The first was my first '93 which I got at 207k bone stock miles - going strong. I did a TCI converter from Summit in that truck and that did make a nice difference - not as good as the big dawg DTT, Goerends or Suncoast clams but good nonetheless. Towed better than stock, and I thought it was great until that truck got wrecked and I replaced it with another 93 with only 93k on the odo, and that truck got an 89% DTT clam, and that truck feels almost like a lock-up system - it's that good. The RCs driveline came from a wrecked donor truck with 137k unknown miles on the clock so it got a rebuild just to be safe, including a shift kit w/ valvebody, and a DTT converter. Considering the truck's weight, gearing, and tire size, it's actually 'fast', and pulls hard.
If your tranny has been well maintained, fluid looks nice and red and doesn't smell burnt I personally wouldn't worry about 180k. A good converter will reduce the heat a lot in the tranny and that's good, but it will also 'ask' more from the engine, meaning the converter will engage nice and hard and you'll be 'all-motor'....and that's good. That gains lower rpm's and the turbo will load nice and hard - it's nice, and the fuel/turbo upgrades will then be realized fully.
The sooner you do the converter the sooner the tranny will be singing the happily-ever-after song.
Oh, I should also mention that after you do the converter...umm you'll soon be surfing for injectors...turbos...housings...blah blah blah
- S
If your tranny has been well maintained, fluid looks nice and red and doesn't smell burnt I personally wouldn't worry about 180k. A good converter will reduce the heat a lot in the tranny and that's good, but it will also 'ask' more from the engine, meaning the converter will engage nice and hard and you'll be 'all-motor'....and that's good. That gains lower rpm's and the turbo will load nice and hard - it's nice, and the fuel/turbo upgrades will then be realized fully.
The sooner you do the converter the sooner the tranny will be singing the happily-ever-after song.
Oh, I should also mention that after you do the converter...umm you'll soon be surfing for injectors...turbos...housings...blah blah blah
- S
03-02-2009, 09:48 AM
#29
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Firstgen your 5ver sounds like what I have. I have towed both with and with a stock converter and with my hughes tc. The hughes tows so much better than stock. This is my 5th wheel it's a 24' depending where you measure it from 27' to tip of the pin. have 250K on my truck
Last edited by Falcon1; 03-02-2009 at 09:49 AM. Reason: milage
03-03-2009, 10:41 PM
#30
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Firstgen your 5ver sounds like what I have. I have towed both with and with a stock converter and with my hughes tc. The hughes tows so much better than stock. This is my 5th wheel it's a 24' depending where you measure it from 27' to tip of the pin. have 250K on my truck
This question is for anyone: How much % can you get a torque converter for a A518? I've seen some guys posting 89% and even into the 90 percentile once. I'm assuming that the closer to 100%, the better? I do realize that it is impossible to get a converter that matches to 100% because of our non-lockup design.