Top end towing power
#1
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Top end towing power
For the last couple of weeks I have been reading posts before I ask a question on horsepower.My idea is-BHAF and 4"exhaust,turn up the pump (some), larger injectors but not radical and a 16cm turbo.I won't be racing the truck I just need top end grunt and it has to pass imissions once a year.Does this sound reasonable or should I be looking at something else? Thanks.
#2
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Hi Charger',,,,,
What you want to do is certainly possible.
Like always we all want to encourage owners to install some gauges...very important !!!
Having said that, you can improve the trucks performance and even mileage a bit as well by doing some of the basics which I see you have posted about...airfilter and/or opening up the airbox a bit will help breathing. The larger exhaust will aid in allowing better flow over the stock crunched piping in the factory system.
I think that the 3 1/2" mandrel bent system is MORE than adequate for a moderately tweaked truck... 4" is really a "necessity" for the wet and wild guys....
If you can get a good quality 3 1/2" system cheaper than a 4" then go for it...
Right now, to keep you in the emissions ball game, you could tweak up your timing; add a better injector like say the 190 HP Bosch injector; do some AFC cone adjustments and try that as a starting point.
Remeber the gauges I mentioned....well you need to do one upgrade at a time and watch your guages for results.... drive it for a few days over the same roads and condtions, use the same throttle amount/gear etc. From this, you can begin to develope a baseline from which you can assess your upgrades and their effectiveness..
Well, that's all I'd suggest for now,..... I know there are others here who will jump in and help out.....
regards, bob...
What you want to do is certainly possible.
Like always we all want to encourage owners to install some gauges...very important !!!
Having said that, you can improve the trucks performance and even mileage a bit as well by doing some of the basics which I see you have posted about...airfilter and/or opening up the airbox a bit will help breathing. The larger exhaust will aid in allowing better flow over the stock crunched piping in the factory system.
I think that the 3 1/2" mandrel bent system is MORE than adequate for a moderately tweaked truck... 4" is really a "necessity" for the wet and wild guys....
If you can get a good quality 3 1/2" system cheaper than a 4" then go for it...
Right now, to keep you in the emissions ball game, you could tweak up your timing; add a better injector like say the 190 HP Bosch injector; do some AFC cone adjustments and try that as a starting point.
Remeber the gauges I mentioned....well you need to do one upgrade at a time and watch your guages for results.... drive it for a few days over the same roads and condtions, use the same throttle amount/gear etc. From this, you can begin to develope a baseline from which you can assess your upgrades and their effectiveness..
Well, that's all I'd suggest for now,..... I know there are others here who will jump in and help out.....
regards, bob...
#3
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I have POD nozzles in mine, i would not advise you use the PODs in an emission State. The 185s or what some call "wagoneers" are a medium nozzle. I have been tempted to try them on my second truck. I think they are a good all around nozzle but hopefully someone else with experience will give more advice.
The 16 CM housing is the best "all around" housing. You can have them shipped for $150.
You can give the fuel screw a turn or two. but keep the smoke screw all the way backed out. You can pull the diaphram and rotate the ecentric cone to full fuel, which is usualy about 120 degrees in clockwise rotation. but leave the spring under the cone right where its at.
This is a little confusing unless you have been into these pumps.
Its not hard but im trying to give you the most fuel under load without smoke.
Good luck
The 16 CM housing is the best "all around" housing. You can have them shipped for $150.
You can give the fuel screw a turn or two. but keep the smoke screw all the way backed out. You can pull the diaphram and rotate the ecentric cone to full fuel, which is usualy about 120 degrees in clockwise rotation. but leave the spring under the cone right where its at.
This is a little confusing unless you have been into these pumps.
Its not hard but im trying to give you the most fuel under load without smoke.
Good luck
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