Begle1

Well, getting ready to go out to Indiana Thursday.

Got a couple body shops lined up to get all of my body work done while I'm on vacation. Went to a custom hot-shot guy to get a second fuel door from a Ramcharger installed on the side of the bed for $500, then got a cheapy local body shop to quote the rest of the body work (a bad door, three little dings and a caved in front fender) and prep my roof rust for another $500. Although thinking about it, I don't know what they think they're going to do with the roof rust. Is there any way to stop that?

So now when I come back from vacation I take the smoothed out truck body, slap some cheap Krylon paint over the rough spots and vinyl wrap it and it should look slick, especially with the dual filler doors. (Truck of the Month, here I come...)

Today I went and got a Pollock 6-port valve and connector from a supplier. It's kind of odd that the valves cost $75 from eBay or Napa, but they cost only $35 from the supplier. And the suppliers wonder why one guy buys out their invetory every three weeks. "I don't know, maybe because they sell them all on eBay for 100% profit!".

Had 25 feet of C-276 1/2 inch line laying around. Took it to the pipe guys and horsetraded it for 40 feet of 1/2 inch seamless stainless line, and some credit so I can get some more stainless line if I need it. (Apparently the C-276 was $10 a foot... Pretty good scrounge there, if I do say so myself. )

So now I need to find some filters and heaters on the Internet, so hopefully I can buy them and get them home by the time I come back. Anybody got any good leads on that stuff?

Would have worked with my flash emulsifier project, but I ran out of fuel in a parking lot (wasn't my fault ) and had to spend an hour trying to get it started again. (First time I had to go through that... )

Current plan is to take the stock lines and extend them back to the Ramcharger tank, then take the 1/2 inch stainless lines and run those from the stock tank to the Pollak valve, through any filters and heaters along the way. I'm planning on installing the Pollak valve right in the engine compartment, hopefully use enough heater elements to have the veggie warmed up by the time it gets there.

Only depressing thing that happened today was, when I ran out of fuel and had to crack my injectors, I realized that half of them are leaking. Not a problem, right?

Oh, it's gonna happen. Money sure runs out fast though, doesn't it?

G1625S

Sounds like you've got a bunch of cool projects lined up! As for the roof rust, it's probably growing from the inside out like all the rest of the 1st gens...no way to stop it externally. Who knows how much the vinyl wrap will slow it down though. I've got a 50 foot paint job and it's been keeping it at bay for about 2 years. You'll be amazed at the junk that builds up under the injector nuts. Back them all the way off and wipe them with a clean, lint-free rag and re-torque. You'll be leak free in no time.

Baja

Since you have a first gen, I do not know exactly where your valve is in relation to the LP, but here is my setup, and I plan to change it. From my experience, there is a lot of heat loss from my valve to the IP. My valve is located next to the driver side battery. What I have found is that the oil is hot at the valve, but gets quite cold by the time it reaches the IP. This will fix itself, but it takes a long time for the oil to heat up all the components, finally reaching a good temp at the IP. I have a vegatherm right in front of the LP, which I switch on for some time before I make the veg switch, this heats up the system before the oil gets there. It works, but my next move is to put the pollack valve down under the truck next to the starter. This will eliminate a lot of fuel line that needs to be purged, and will allow the hot oil to get much closer to the LP. Just a thought. Keep us posted!
Make sure you get a heated filter!